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Old 01-17-2004, 04:56 PM
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overkill in garage design

Hi all, I'm in the final stages of design for my new 40 X 60 foot shop,and want your input on a few ideas:
I'm in south west florida, we don't have frost heave, or nasty weather extremes,but,the ground is mostly sand with a rolling limestone aquafer, and a high water table. My lot is at 17 feet above sea level, and we routinely use sand points and trash pumps to keep the foundation trenches dry long enough to pour the cement.
The slab will float inside the foundation, and will be poured in rectangular sections around the perimiter,3.5 in. thick with a 16 ft X 40 ft. monolithic pour, 6 in. thick slab from the short wall entry door to the center of the shop. (room to park the car hualer and use the roll around 4 post ramp lift )
I want to put some 3 in. X 3 in. X 1/4 in. wall square steel tube, vertically, in the slabs for use as receivers for pedistal mounted tools,(grinders , vises , benders etc.) anchor points for the frame jig,(5 ft. X 28 ft)and pulling points for big fabrication jobs and trailer repair.
How is this best done, and how many would you put in? how would you place them relative to the slabs and walls?
Does any body have a good design for an air compressor enclosure, I'm going to put it outside, but want to protect it from the elements, without bothering my neighbors with the noise.
Thanks for the help, Paul.
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Old 01-17-2004, 07:42 PM
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i wouldn't go too crazy with the 3x3s. you don't need a pedestal like that to hold a 10lb grinder. a vise, however, might be a different story depending on how big the vise is and what you plan on reefing on.

the problem when you put those pedestals in is that you can't move them later, unless you want to cut them out. there are stands available for grinders and i'm sure you'd be fine by just drilling out the concrete and using anchors with 1/2" lag screws. that way you can put it anywhere you want. the 1/2" lags would be plenty strong.

i think for a compressor enclosure i would just frame around the compressor with 2x4 walls and insulate it. build on a bit of a roof to keep the water out. i think a surround with 4" of insulation would quiet that thing pretty good.

JB
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Old 01-18-2004, 02:20 PM
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clairification

Hi JB,
What I want to do, is place the 3X3 tube in or on the ground, pour the slab, and finish the surface flush, with a steel , drop in cap,sitting even with the floor surface. ( no trip hazzard, keep out dirt )
Lift out the cap, drop in a piece of 2 1/2 X 2 1/2 tube,32 inches or so, long ( actual length determined by the working height of each tool ) with a plate on top, to mount the tool.

This would allow me to put the tools into similar sockets on a roll around cart, for storage out of the way, until needed, but easy to move to where I'm working, lot's less walking back and forth to the bench!

what I'm asking for is the best way to design the sockets for maximum holding power in the concrete slab, and minimum "wiggle" of the pedestal in use.
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Old 01-18-2004, 02:26 PM
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Just make to concrete deeper where you are putting these pipes.

What are you going to do to stop the pedestal from turning?
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Old 01-18-2004, 03:11 PM
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Quote:
what I'm asking for is the best way to design the sockets for maximum holding power in the concrete slab, and minimum "wiggle" of the pedestal in use.
gotcha...

i think what i would do is weld on some 3/8",1/2" square or round stock onto the sides of the 3x3 with about 8" overhang on each side. you could weld 1 or 2 of these on each side of the 3x3, leaving the center smooth for insertion, and then when the concrete pours around the 'spurs' on the 3x3 will keep it in one place, you'd never get that thing out.

kind of like this : #, if you know what i mean.

later,

JB
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Old 01-18-2004, 05:02 PM
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Ditto on what Johnnymopar said. Just add some rebar (you'll have it anyways hopefully) on all four sides at the height to where it will be embedded in the concrete. You won't have any wiggle. Just make sure the 3x3 is long enough to go into the ground at least a couple of feet. If you plan on having a vise mounted at anytime then I would pour concrete to at least 1' to 1 1/2' deep around the 3x3. That way it will insure stability.
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Old 01-18-2004, 05:45 PM
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The frame machine mount and tie downs should be bought from the co. that manufactures the puller. Most of these have to be put in the floor in a pattern, and is best done after the floor is poured, the co that sells the puller will come and drill the holes in the right places, and you can't pull the out using them.

I would hate to have to finish a floor with them already in place.

Troy

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Old 01-19-2004, 09:36 AM
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I've seen compressor "rooms" like Johnnymopar was describing, ventilation is important for cooling though. A screened air intake, blocked in between studs, 4"x15" approx, low in thge wall, then the same on the top below the roof or a flashing type on the roof to allow hot air to escape. Try to locate them away from the neighbors, maybe plant some trees if room is available. Trees make great sound deafeners. On my old shop I used well casing in the concrete for pulling engines and bodies. I don't remember the exact dimensions of the pipe but I think it was 6" pipe in the concrete, 5 1/2" pipe for uprights. Footings for the pipe were 24" x 24", I had 6 of them spaced about 6' apart lengthwise, the same side to side. Good luck with everything. Dan
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Old 01-28-2004, 11:41 AM
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Overkill in garage design?
No such thing.
Not possible.
Can't do it.
No how, no way.

Would you use it all, if it were overdesigned?
Yep, someday.

Jeffsters Dictionary says:
Overkill = peace of mind knowing that its "just enough" and you won't have to do it over again 'cause you cheaped out !


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Old 02-09-2004, 04:28 PM
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Old 02-10-2004, 11:50 AM
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I stand corrected. He's got more $ into his "fishin' hole" than I have in my whole 30x40 shop !

Total cost of construction: MY GOD !!!
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Old 02-21-2004, 02:09 AM
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that is the dumbest thing ive ever seen.. i can go for all the tools in the world, nice checkered congrete floor. workbenches, and dynos. but outfitting a garage with granite tiles and then not installing a lift ???? thats only for show and not for function..

im sure a lift can be specially ordered to disappear into the floor without a trace if money was no object.

(im still jealoux though... the facom toolbox you sell... i must have one)
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Old 02-22-2004, 02:42 PM
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Old 02-22-2004, 05:59 PM
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That is the second time I have seen that "garage"? in posts here. It is obvious to me that it is not a workable shop. It is all for appearance. There is a big difference between someone that wants something like that and the rest of us. The rest of us want someplace to work on our cars so we can show off what we DID. That type of person wants something to show off what he can BUY.

Personally, I think it has some good features, like heat and AC. The lift and dyno are also nice. The tile is a bunch of wasted money that could go towards something usefull.
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Old 02-23-2004, 06:32 AM
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I dunno, I think the tile and glitz is there for a reason. Look at the cars in there. They're not the "beaters" that we work on. His marketing stategy looks like he's chasing the megabuck "hobbiests" for garage designs. He blew me away. I never thought there was such thing as an overkill in a garage. Like I said, his "fishing hole" cost more than my 30x40 polebarn and 56x26 garage combined. Hats off Ultgar. There's a few ideas in there, that are within my reach, that I can incorporate into my "2nd home". I like the built in toolboxs, those are killer. Selling the old ones cheap? LOL
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