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Old 09-13-2011, 06:09 PM
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P1345 code newly built 96 chevy 350 now 383 headers red

I have a P1345 code cam/crank coralation? I just fired the engine up after building it for the last year. It is in my 96 Chevy Express van. I had the computer reflashed by PCMforless and they deleted the EGR and rear o2 sensors for me. It is a 383 stroker and I am pretty sure the distributor is in properly. Idles good throttle is crisp. I have an open exhaust on it right now, I need to get it to an exhaust shop to tie the new headers into the existing exhaust system. What can cause this code/ condition? I have long tube tri y headers and they came with pipes for the front o2 sensors to go into. It did not get red until I rev'd it around 2000rpm and then it became noticable. Any thoughts? Could the distributor be a tooth off and sound this good? Does the exhaust system need to be completed for it to not run the headers red? I have not had a chance to drive it to seat the rings yet. I don't want to hurt anything!
Thanks,
Chuck

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Old 09-13-2011, 06:27 PM
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You need to perform a crankshaft / camshaft correlation re learn prcedure.
You will need a mt 2500 snap on or a modis or similar scanner to do it.
If it wont relearn, then you probably dont have the dizzy in right.
Also a worn dizzy gear can cause an issue like that.
Double check your dizzy install. Did you have the pointer aligned with the number 8 on the housing and all that jazz?
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Old 09-13-2011, 08:08 PM
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I bought a new dizzy from summit just to be safe! I pointed the rotor at #1 on the cap which points at the corner of the dizzy where the round part meets the flat part.
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Old 09-13-2011, 08:35 PM
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the OE dizzy has a mark on the area that the cap rests on . It will have a number 6 and a number 8 on it.Look for it.It is important that you know.
It is the alignment mark for the rotor when the engine is at 14 degrees( I think it was 14) BTDC. No.1 compression stroke which is where you want it. It is 14 if I remember Correctly.
once you achieve that with the new dizzy then you can take the original firing order/wire posistion and apply it to the cap and wires, if not you will not suppress the p1345 you are getting.
You should get your hands on the info from say....alldatadiy for replacing a factory dizzy so you can read it to understand it better.
It can be done but you will need to replicate the same orientation with the new dizzy as the OE will require
Does the new dizzy have the same shutter blade on the armerature as the OE? That blade on there is what the PCM needs to determine wich injector to fire and when, it has to be in the correct spot in relation to the crankshaft and the number one terminal on the dizzy cap to fire the plug simutaneously.In other words all the planets have to be aligned .
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Old 09-13-2011, 08:48 PM
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I will check that tomorrow! I have the factory service manuals too So I will look for the dizzy info there too, also my buddy has alldata too. so your saying the crank needs to be set to the 14deg before TDC mark and the Dizzy set to #8 for it to be correct?
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Old 09-14-2011, 05:46 PM
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IIRC 14 degrees was where they say to have the crank on number 1 compression stroke.You will need to check alldata to be sure.
Once again, In placement of the rotor, look at the old dizzy.
where the cap sets on the dizzy, there are little numbers , there will be a 6 in one spot and an 8 in another. Because they use the housing for both,
It is NOT in reference to the number 8 spark plug tower
It is a reference mark for aligning the dizzy rotor for the 8 CYLINDER engine to position the rotor for number one cylinder.The 8 is just the spot where they want you to put it on the 8 cylinder.
The 6 mark is for the 6 cylinder.
If you have alldata, then look up R+R distributor and it will explain it well.
Does the hew dizzy have the shutter wheel like the OEM?
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Old 09-15-2011, 06:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by latech
IIRC 14 degrees was where they say to have the crank on number 1 compression stroke.You will need to check alldata to be sure.
Once again, In placement of the rotor, look at the old dizzy.
where the cap sets on the dizzy, there are little numbers , there will be a 6 in one spot and an 8 in another. Because they use the housing for both,
It is NOT in reference to the number 8 spark plug tower
It is a reference mark for aligning the dizzy rotor for the 8 CYLINDER engine to position the rotor for number one cylinder.The 8 is just the spot where they want you to put it on the 8 cylinder.
The 6 mark is for the 6 cylinder.
If you have alldata, then look up R+R distributor and it will explain it well.
Does the hew dizzy have the shutter wheel like the OEM?
I checked the timing again and it looked like it was on? The old Dizzy has a mark with the #8 and the new dizzy has the mark but it is not stamped #8. I have not gotten a chance to use alldata yet (have to go to my buddies shop for that) but the FSM says if you have the P1345 code the dizzy is installed incorrectly? It does not mention a relearn procedure??? So I pulled the dizzy and moved it one tooth forward which looked like is was on the mark also...( my harmonic balancer is much smaller that the stock one so it is tough to see where the timing marks line up with the mark on the timing cover! I started the car....no check engine light..oh wait I foirgot to plug the connector back on the dizzy, plug it in and the check engine light comes back on instantly? ?????? I am going to try to get to an alldata to check what it says today!
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Old 09-15-2011, 09:50 AM
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There is no getting around this. You need a scan tool to get this right. You may have to bite the bullet, and take it into a technician. You CANNOT get this right without the scanner.
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Old 09-15-2011, 05:29 PM
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I got my buddy to come over with his scantool. We hooked it up and it was reading 23deg so we moved the dizzy one tooth and it read -32??? When at 23 deg I can spin the dizzy and get it to drop to 4deg, if it is at the -32 I can adjust it to -9deg??? What could cause this? It will not 0 out! I called summit to see if the cam was set to base timing or to see if it had advance/retard built into it, They couldn't find the spec! I am pretty sure the timing is dead on between the cam/crank gears I know i checked it a million times before I put the timing cover on it. It runs good sounds great. I don't get it??? I had my computer reflashed by PCMforless so I will give them a call to see if it may be due to the tune? I'm just pulling at straws now. I really don't want to have to pull this van apart to check the timing if I don't have to!!!!
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Old 09-15-2011, 06:04 PM
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This sounds like the dizzy you bought.
These are the directions.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf sum-850097-99.pdf (27.8 KB, 90 views)
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Old 09-16-2011, 12:44 AM
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We did exactly what is listed here!! Still no fix? the computer programer said that the scan tool may not be reading the timing correctly because it's a 96? Waiting to hear back from him to confirm. He did say that the timing reading -32deg it actually +32deg because if it was -32deg it wouldn't run.
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Old 09-16-2011, 02:22 PM
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well if you turned the dizzy and got it to drop to 4 degrees you would have been 2 degrees from getting it set to where it would be able to adpt (relearn correlation)
The scanner displaying data shouldnt be a problem, that doesnt add up to me.
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Old 09-16-2011, 08:19 PM
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I am going to try to move the dizzy at tooth clockwise tomorrow to see if it brings it within spec. My buddy was doing the dizzy adjustment and it is possible he missed a tooth. It was weird that it went from -32 deg to +23 deg when he moved it a tooth!
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Old 09-17-2011, 04:22 PM
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Ok, today I didn't have the scan tool but I tried to get that light to go out anyway. I adjusted the dizzy 1 tooth repeatedly clockwise until it wouldn't start then I adjusted it 1 tooth counterclockwise until it wouldn't start. Nowhere in between did the check engine light turn off! The vortec dizzy is non adjustable in the sense that once the hold down screw is threaded it will not allow the dizzy to be turned forward or backward! So my check engine light is still on and I cant find a place on the dizzy that will allow it to relearn. When I used the scan tool the other day if I moved the dizzy 1 tooth forward it was +23 deg and if I moved it 1 tooth backward it was -32 deg!!!! Why wont this come close??? Can the cam gear be a tooth off and not allow the dizzy to find that sweet spot? this is really starting to suck!!!
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Old 09-17-2011, 10:21 PM
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Will removing the dizzy gear and rotating it 180deg. change the timing? someone mentioned that if I do that , that it will allow it to only be 1/2 tooth off because it has an odd number of teeth. Is this true? If I only loose a half tooth of timing then I should be able to get it with in spec!
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