Doc here,
imp:
It is run thus:
Coil Circuit:
Battery fuse link--->Ign Hot--->Ign run--->Batt Term on HEI
Start circuit:
Battery fuse link---Ign Hot--->Ign Start--->Neutral Safety Switch--->"S" Terminal solenoid
If your going to run it on a fresh engine, for break in ect..I would get a few things..
- A cheap gauge set (like $19.00 for oil, temp, and volts) for temporary use to monitor the engine while building/running..
- A "generic switch like I posted above.
- A fuse link
- A piece of wood about the size of a small instrument panel..
- Get your fuse link, install it on the starter Solenoid main battery bolt..along with it's power cable to the battery..Be sure the bolt is tight.
- Get A 10 gauge red wire, run it from the fuse link (it will need to be soldered in to the junction) to the "BATT" terminal on the ignition switch..
- The Start terminal of the ignition will be run via a 10 gauge wire to the neutral safety switch , then to the "S" terminal on the solenoid..
- The run Terminal of the Ignition switch in a 10 gauge wire to the Coil + or "Batt" terminal on the HEI..
- Next get a hole saw, drill your wood "Panel" out for the 3 gauges, and the ignition switch shaft and holdown..install them all..
- Wire using 18 gauge wire your gauge Power in a daisy chain to the Ignition switch "Run" position..
- Run the ground using 18 gauge wire from the instruments to a starter bolt you designate as Battery System Ground , and install it, and your ground cable from the battery there. Use a star washer and burnish all paint from the surface area. Be sure the bolt is tight.
- If you want gauge lamps, just parallel them into the gauge power and ground.
- Run all your sender wires to the proper senders..use 18 gauge wire.
- If you want an "On" indicator..get a green panel lamp and hook it up to the run position on the Ignition switch.
If you want it to be on when the switch is on, but engine off, then off when running, get a relay, hook it to the switch power (run) for the RELAY coil, and the ground for the RELAY coil to the Oil pressure sender, then the normally open contact to the "Batt" terminal on the ignition, and the center wiper to the lamp power..
It will be on when powered up , but go out when oil pressure is detected.
If you want the alternator to charge and it's a standard 3 wire internal, :
- Hook a 10 gauge wire to the back of the BATT lug on the alternator, run it to the solenoid main power cable Via a 70 amp fuse link.
- Hook the top plug red 18 gauge to the main power wire at the rear of the alternator.
- The brown top plug wire can go to power your indicator lamp (the green one , with out a relay or oil sender connection) Or you can add a red lamp..and run them both, then on through the lamp to the "run " on the ignition switch..or not run a lamp at all, just direct to the switch.
You can neatly tie wrap your temporary loom out of the way, and Mount the board (panel) where ever you need it to monitor and control the engine function..you can add things like a hand throttle, hand choke, whatever you want to make it easy to control and monitor the engine.
When you no longer require it, you can carefully remove it, and store it for future projects..or engine stand run in's..it becomes a good testing tool..
If you will not be hooking up a NS switch..I advocate getting a piece of "Althread, " about 5 feet long, bend a 90 degree in one end and bolt that to the transmission linkage.
Run that to an area where you can mount a steel "L" bracket to a trans bolt, or bell housing bolt, drill a hole for the allthread to fit through.
Set the trans for "Park", put a back up bolt on one side of the linkage, and a hold down on the front..tighten tightly..This way it is "Locked " in park..and no tragic accidents can occur..
Doc
imp: