[Craig legacy]

Any guidance would be great. I'm starting to wire my 1959 Chevy streetrod project and would like some pointers. So far I have separated the engine, headlight and panel sections of a painless 12 circuiit system. I would like to wire the truck enough to start and run and then continue the project as I move along and add the accessories.

Also help in running the battery cable and grounds.

Thanks

[fitzwell]

if you just want to get the truck running to move it around the shop, you will need (at the minimum)the coil B+ to the coil,the two hot wires under the hood, the bat B+ wires to the ignition switch, the solenoid wire to the ignition switch, as well as the accessory & ign wire. Make sure there are no bare wires touching any metal, as some might be hot with the key on

[docvette]

Doc here,

Are you not intending to drive it during this period? just move it a few feet?

If that's the case, just get an Aftermarket "Generic" ignition switch (about $8 bucks)


and a handful of wire..10 gauge....and hook it to the "S" terminal of the solenoid to the "Start" on the switch..The "Run on the switch will go to the "Coil+" , the B, on the switch will go to the Battery plus..you may also need secondary ignition , if thats the case run a jumper from the "R" or "I" terminal on the solenoid..to the coil +

Battery cable goes to the big bolt on the solenoid, and ground goes to any mount bolt near the starter..



This will enable you to start and move it around a few feet, without involving your aftermarket harness currently being installed..(provided you hook up power to it as the last detail..)

I DO NOT advocate trying to drive it around town..as you have no charging system, no engine monitoring, NO BRAKE lamps or turn signals as well as tail and head lamps..

Not a good thing for your engine or a safe thing to attempt..Plus you don't need a ticket for some obscure code , like: "driving without benefit of a motor vehicle.." Chapters 1 &2 ..continued on the next ticket..

Doc

[Craig legacy]

Thanks for the info. I just need to hear the 383 that I'm running. I'm to the point that I need a boost to push me long.

[cucumber1949]

What Painless harness are you using? And I assume that anything you want to do now would be the start of or part and parcel of your permanent wiring installation? Is the body now on the frame? Will it stay on the frame between now and final assembly? I have done something similar years back and may have something to offer if I knew a little more about where you currently are now.

[Craig legacy]

The truck frame and suspension is complete with the completed cab and front end on. (all body work and primer done, will do final body work before paint). Installed crate 383 with 700r4 to back it up. Radiator ,fuel lines steering done . Just need starter, coil etc and wiring. Have gauges comming. I would like to get it fired up, and then progress with patching the fleetside bed and put on frame. My plan is then to drive it to shake out the bugs, take it apart to do any final body work and then have it painted. Could you also explain how the coil, ignition box and distributor is hooked up. I'm using a 12 circuit universal painless system.

Craig

[docvette]

Doc here,

It is run thus:

Coil Circuit:
Battery fuse link--->Ign Hot--->Ign run--->Batt Term on HEI

Start circuit:
Battery fuse link---Ign Hot--->Ign Start--->Neutral Safety Switch--->"S" Terminal solenoid

If your going to run it on a fresh engine, for break in ect..I would get a few things..

• A cheap gauge set (like $19.00 for oil, temp, and volts) for temporary use to monitor the engine while building/running..
  
• A "generic switch like I posted above.
  
• A fuse link
  
• A piece of wood about the size of a small instrument panel..

• Get your fuse link, install it on the starter Solenoid main battery bolt..along with it's power cable to the battery..Be sure the bolt is tight.
  
  
• Get A 10 gauge red wire, run it from the fuse link (it will need to be soldered in to the junction) to the "BATT" terminal on the ignition switch..
  
  
• The Start terminal of the ignition will be run via a 10 gauge wire to the neutral safety switch , then to the "S" terminal on the solenoid..
  
  
• The run Terminal of the Ignition switch in a 10 gauge wire to the Coil + or "Batt" terminal on the HEI..
  
  
• Next get a hole saw, drill your wood "Panel" out for the 3 gauges, and the ignition switch shaft and holdown..install them all..
  
  
• Wire using 18 gauge wire your gauge Power in a daisy chain to the Ignition switch "Run" position..
  
  
• Run the ground using 18 gauge wire from the instruments to a starter bolt you designate as Battery System Ground , and install it, and your ground cable from the battery there. Use a star washer and burnish all paint from the surface area. Be sure the bolt is tight.
  
  
  
• If you want gauge lamps, just parallel them into the gauge power and ground.
  
  
• Run all your sender wires to the proper senders..use 18 gauge wire.
  
  
• If you want an "On" indicator..get a green panel lamp and hook it up to the run position on the Ignition switch.

If you want it to be on when the switch is on, but engine off, then off when running, get a relay, hook it to the switch power (run) for the RELAY coil, and the ground for the RELAY coil to the Oil pressure sender, then the normally open contact to the "Batt" terminal on the ignition, and the center wiper to the lamp power..

It will be on when powered up , but go out when oil pressure is detected.

If you want the alternator to charge and it's a standard 3 wire internal, :

• Hook a 10 gauge wire to the back of the BATT lug on the alternator, run it to the solenoid main power cable Via a 70 amp fuse link.
  
  
• Hook the top plug red 18 gauge to the main power wire at the rear of the alternator.
  
  
• The brown top plug wire can go to power your indicator lamp (the green one , with out a relay or oil sender connection) Or you can add a red lamp..and run them both, then on through the lamp to the "run " on the ignition switch..or not run a lamp at all, just direct to the switch.

You can neatly tie wrap your temporary loom out of the way, and Mount the board (panel) where ever you need it to monitor and control the engine function..you can add things like a hand throttle, hand choke, whatever you want to make it easy to control and monitor the engine.

When you no longer require it, you can carefully remove it, and store it for future projects..or engine stand run in's..it becomes a good testing tool..

If you will not be hooking up a NS switch..I advocate getting a piece of "Althread, " about 5 feet long, bend a 90 degree in one end and bolt that to the transmission linkage.

Run that to an area where you can mount a steel "L" bracket to a trans bolt, or bell housing bolt, drill a hole for the allthread to fit through.

Set the trans for "Park", put a back up bolt on one side of the linkage, and a hold down on the front..tighten tightly..This way it is "Locked " in park..and no tragic accidents can occur..



Doc

[Craig legacy]

Thank you all for your help!