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Old 12-15-2004, 07:08 PM
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Painless wiring harness question

I have the Painless microfuse chassis harness. I plan to rewire the 34 y/o wiring in my 70 model GNZ (Datsun 240-Z w/a 87 Buick GN motor.) and as such I pose these questions:

1- As I wire the car should I terminate the Painless wiring a few inches before the device it is being wired to such as a headlight or tailight? I am a little concerned about doing this as I am worried about it being a different gauge. Any suggestions?

2-Is there any place that is more bennificial than another when it comes to mounting the fusepanel itself or is it more related to convenience?

3-How should I splice into the existing blinker switch and headlight switch wiring?

Any help with these items would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance and happy holidays to all. Cheers !!!

JC

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Old 12-15-2004, 08:18 PM
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As long as the wire gauge is close, esp if you painless wire gauge is bigger than your load wires, no worries..............Mount the fuse panel anyplace convinent, just keep it away from mosture and extreme heat......................About your Head lamp and turn signals It shouldt be to hard, But you will need a wiring diaghram and maybe some help from sombody with experiance esp on the turn sig switch, the head light swith is fairly simple.
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Old 12-17-2004, 03:27 PM
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The BEST way to splice into those other wires is with shrink-wrap and solder.

Alan
54 Chevy Pickup
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Old 12-18-2004, 06:50 PM
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Thats kinda what I was thinkin too. I thank you both for your input. Take care and happy holidays. Cheers !!!

Jim C.
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Old 02-27-2005, 04:54 AM
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Go to www.hybridz.org/ and look for Bill 260z he drew up a diagram for the Painless 18 circuit to Combo switch it goes wire to wire
check out the top of page sticky on hybridz elec section as it covers your swap

Last edited by rick458; 02-27-2005 at 07:40 AM.
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Old 02-27-2005, 08:00 AM
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This is basic, but you need to plan your splice joints so each is staggered in a manner that no splices are side by side. Two reasons for this: the wire bundle will not grow too large and the fully undisturbed insulation will alwas be against the splice joint. Even better, you may want to use quick disconnects sealed with shrink tube vice solder/shrink tube. Switch replacement could be down the road!!

As far as location, ready access is key, right with protection from the elements. If the kit has long enough wires, you may want to consider installation on the trunk bulkhead. I installed The one in my 36 coupe under the dash and tan all the wiring before the insruments, seats and interior were installed. Now if I have to do any work such as installing new circuits, I have to remove the seats to have the room to complete the job. When I rebuilt my 36 pickup, The pannel is under the seat base and I just have to raise it up and move foreward for complete access.

Trees

Sorry about this. Old man did not look at date of original post. Oh well, maybe some other member will read this basic splicing tidbit.
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Old 02-27-2005, 11:56 AM
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I will pay attention to it Trees
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Old 02-28-2005, 07:28 AM
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Thank you for your suggestions. As for the date, no problem as I have not had the time to get to my car yet as I have been busy working on everyone else's stuff. I am a little confused right now as part of me wants to put in a new steeering column such as a Flaming River (tilt column so that I have new GM circuits as well) or something of the like but then the other part of me says just keep what I have as there is nothing wrong with it. What do ya'll think? Thanks in advance.

Jimbo
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Old 02-28-2005, 08:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by horvath
The BEST way to splice into those other wires is with shrink-wrap and solder.

Alan
54 Chevy Pickup
Er uh shouldn't that be solder then shrink wrap?

Vince
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Old 02-28-2005, 04:30 PM
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Yuk-yuk ... obviously ... I was listing items, not procedures.

Alan
54 Chevy Pickup
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