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Old 01-09-2008, 12:54 PM
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I was talking with the owner of a small body shop the other day and he made comments on different paints and their compatibility. He said that he had alot of paints chemically tested? True or not i don't know. According to him a person can use any single stage urethane as a base coat, you leave out the hardner and use more reducer. let it flash for an hour or so after your last coat and clear over it?. Secondly he said you can change an acrylic enamel to a single stage urethane buy using a urethane hardner. He claims he had been doing it for years. I have heard and seen painters use single stage urathanes and mix a catylized clear to paint50/50 on the last two coats. They claimed it help hide any little imperfections and added depth to the paint job. I have seen that done in real life, but the converting single stages to bases and flip flopping hardners was a new one on me. SO i thought post a thread see if any of you guys new of some validity to all this or was I talking to a painter that has been playing with FIRE and just hasn't been burned yet!!. And I was just talking with Barry this morning and never thought to ask.

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Old 01-09-2008, 01:15 PM
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Urethane makes an excellent base coat, i use it that way.
But I always add the hardener. Otherwise you'll be painting clear over a
base that will stay soft. Don't do that.
Urethane colors are basically the same as urethane clear, so why
wouldn't they be compatible? They're the same-urethane.
I wouldn't use enamel though, you can, but it's much more risky.
Enamel stays soft forever, urethane can get rock hard in 24 hrs.
I prefer urethane as a base coat on a all-over paint job.
It's cheaper than base, it's a 2k product (that's a plus)
and I think they're right about the color being more intense or deeper.
The car in my project journal is urethane with a urethane clear coat,
I drive it daily.
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Old 01-09-2008, 04:28 PM
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Tough post to answer.
Let me put it to you this way and you decide for yourself what the answer is.

Most urethane single stages would be very close to a urethane clear that the company makes. Using the same resins, change the solvency around and adding dispersers for the pigment and you got it and normally beef up the solids.

So picture spraying 7500 or 7900 without an activator.

Could you thin 7900 that you are using to air dry? sure but I would guess it would be in the area 800-900% to get any good drying out of it and since there are 100's of resins to chose from you would need to know the physical make up of that resin. At a rate of reduction like that it would take a single stage color 10 coats to cover anything.

Just so you don't guess at the wrong answer, you may figure out the thinning ratio to make the resin dry but it will never be as hard or as stable as a base coat, although the resins may or may not be similar other resins are added to the base resins like polyesters and CAB's for drying purposes.
Not sure that was a great place to seek advice, even if it was free.

Last edited by BarryK; 01-09-2008 at 06:26 PM.
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