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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 09-12-2006, 07:09 AM
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i would love 41 degrees. cold is no problem. but 85 at 5:30 in the morning with 75 % humidity you are screwed. as the day goes it turns around, 105 / 45% . painting at 105 ain't happening in my shop. remember when it's cold the hum goes down. i can heat my shop easily and it's well insulated. have you tried washing the red oxide off with thinner ?

i would get some dupont starblast and get someone to blast it [ nozzle at 45* ]. it will clean up the body and leave a good anchor pattern for the epoxy. i would do 2 heavy wet coats of epoxy and let it cure for a week then start my bodywork.jmho

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 09-12-2006, 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by shine
i would love 41 degrees. cold is no problem. but 85 at 5:30 in the morning with 75 % humidity you are .....i would do 2 heavy wet coats of epoxy and let it cure for a week then start my bodywork.jmho
As far as heat, I'm going to have to get a salamander - my attached garage is my shop and the insulation is only in the ceiling. It seldom gets below freezing there even on the coldest days, around zero, so I will be able to maintain some comfort level - were tough up here on the tundra !! I don't envy your heat and humidity problem - I worked out of both Houston and Dallas in the past. Dallas I can handle, Houston, no way !!

I am using cheap (@$13/gal) thinner once I cut the worst off with my long boards and 4" pads. I need to know how bad the hills and valleys in the steel are and am keeping a log as to where I need to rework. Two weeks cure minimum regardless, will be my time frame for bodywork - I need rust protection (epoxy)on the steel first of all.

Got my 3rd coffee, saw this, now back to getting whats left of my fingertips to work.

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Old 09-12-2006, 09:17 AM
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Take a few minutes and walk around a salvage yard, look at fiberglass visors, running boards, bed covers, toppers, corvettes.... You'll notice most of them will be faded when only a few years old, after that the gelcoat gets dry and causes water absorbtion and cracking-deterioration. Most shops when they paint these accessories simply scuff the part and shoot on a urethane based sealer then paint or worse yet paint directly on the gelcoat.

I noticed a big difference in gloss retention and fiberglass life when epoxy was applied over the part first. I think Barry has this explained well by the solvent barrier the epoxy provides when fully cured-it keeps the glass from drying out. As far as the glass being all gassed out after a few days in the sun-not hardly. Glass never quits drying out-I've got some Blazer roofs in the lot as prime examples. JMO
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Old 09-12-2006, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by baddbob

I noticed a big difference in gloss retention and fiberglass life when epoxy was applied over the part first. I think Barry has this explained well by the solvent barrier the epoxy provides when fully cured-it keeps the glass from drying out. As far as the glass being all gassed out after a few days in the sun-not hardly. Glass never quits drying out-I've got some Blazer roofs in the lot as prime examples. JMO
I'm getting comfortable with the need for epoxy on 'glass. This is why I'm keeping a sharp stick available to keep poking at guys who are a lot more expert, and have the information tucked away, than I am about the original question. My fenders are 6-7 years old tho I have "only" owned them 4-5 years..... for sure, the rest of this POS Brookville body will be epoxied, that is if I still have hands with fingers left, paper for my longboards and more disks for my DA and grinder after taking their crap primer off ... but you have already heard that tale of woe.

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Old 09-12-2006, 10:00 AM
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i would block the fenders with 100 and epoxy both sides. for small stuff i use duroglass. from the time a fender comes out of a mold it is wanting to lay flat. the sooner they go on the better.
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Old 09-12-2006, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by shine
i would block the fenders with 100 and epoxy both sides. for small stuff i use duroglass. from the time a fender comes out of a mold it is wanting to lay flat. the sooner they go on the better.
I only wish they would lay flat - these Wescott's tend to curl and I needed heat to coax them into a good fit. The fenders need only a couple of shipping scratches and a couple of my mistake (10-24 size) holes filled. While I do have Duraglass, I don't like it - cures harder than the surounding area - was planning on using Rage. They were blocked with 120.
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Old 09-13-2006, 06:30 AM
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after blocking on the vette yesterday i can tell you this.
the epoxy sands as good or better than 2k primer
no need for guide coat
it filled as well as any 2k primer i've used
you can block it flat without taking it all off

i will not be using 2k primer anymore as it is a waste of time for me and inferior to epoxy. i don't do collision work so this system may not work for you. for custom or restoration it is looking to be the best system to use. jmo
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Old 09-13-2006, 07:03 AM
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Try Jim Bersani Enterprises in Cicero. Lakeshore Road. He does Media blasting!
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Old 09-13-2006, 07:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shine
after blocking on the vette yesterday i can tell you this.
the epoxy sands as good or better than 2k primer
no need for guide coat
it filled as well as any 2k primer i've used
you can block it flat without taking it all off
There are a few components that are good enough 'as received' that will be good enough to try epoxy only on my Brookville - hood, fenders, maybe the grille shell. The rest I'm thinking will need all the help a bucket of Rage and a bucket of SPI 2K can give it. I took a few passes with 80 on the top of the rear quarters and they are really bad - major low and high areas and no good way to reshape the metal.
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Old 09-13-2006, 07:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Beenaway2long
Try Jim Bersani Enterprises in Cicero. Lakeshore Road. He does Media blasting!
Thanks - I think I've gone too far with the sandpaper routine to pack it in now - plus, as we NY upstaters know, it might snow next week - especially where you are. I need to get some paint, at least epoxy primer on this car ASAP.

I've stashed the info away for future reference though.
Dave
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Old 09-14-2006, 08:48 AM
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We got 3 weeks before any ideas of snow come around. And it lasts till mothers day..

I hate "Lake Effect"
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Old 09-23-2006, 07:16 PM
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I joined because of this thread... Just using the web to see how things have changed since painting quite some time ago.

Have a fiberglass project that I have has some time and would like to finally get it moving.

From the thread it sounds like the recommendations are too hit the gel down to 80 or so, give a few good coats of epoxy, use this for blocking. Once satisfied, follow up with the base and clear coat.

Sandwhiching the panels was mentioned... Is this just scuffed up? or should a bit more work be put into underside. This is not a show vehicle, however it seems to make sense if you are not trying to get it in and out. Not in a hurry here it has sat to long to be done quick

-Ed
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Old 09-23-2006, 07:17 PM
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epoxy

I joined because of this thread... Just using the web to see how things have changed since painting quite some time ago.

Have a fiberglass project that I have has some time and would like to finally get it moving.

From the thread it sounds like the recommendations are too hit the gel down to 80 or so, give a few good coats of epoxy, use this for blocking. Once satisfied, follow up with the base and clear coat.

Sandwhiching the panels was mentioned... Is this just scuffed up? or should a bit more work be put into underside. This is not a show vehicle, however it seems to make sense if you are not trying to get it in and out. Not in a hurry here it has sat to long to be done quick

-Ed
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Old 09-25-2006, 11:35 AM
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Ed,

All I have ever done inside the doors, roofs is scuff up with a red scuff pad depending on brand it 400-700 grit and works just fine.

Also on the raw glass 180 is just fine for epoxy.
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