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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 09-10-2006, 01:00 AM
X711
 
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When purchasing a gun something to consider is How much Over-spray the gun will create and also how much fog. In non spray booth conditions i.e your
garage or similar with traditional hvlp guns that atomize the paint well you can expect alot of overspray and fog. "It can get pretty bad"

Of the guns I have, which include the GFG-670 Plus from devilbiss and the
IWATA LPH400-144LV the Iwata is a dream to use. It creates very little
overspray and fog. This is due to the unique wedged tip design that it has.

Pretty much no other gun on the market can perform as good as the Iwata for the same input Air requirements.

Running the gun at 18 to 20 psi Input pressure you can expect a fan of 12 to 14 inches at about 7" from the panel. There is little or no overspray which means all the paint is going on the panel.

The exact part number is LPH400-144LV. This Has a 1.4 mm tip with the LV4
cap. 1.4mm is a good choice for both clear and base !

They make a option cap also called the LVB cap that was designed for spraying difficult material such as perl's etc. Using this cap the input air pressure to the gun is about 10psi.. You should not need it for your job.

If you put Sata, Devilbiss, Sharpe up against the Iwata. They are not even in the same league. Non of the competition can peform as well as the Iwata for
such a low input air requirement.

Get this gun and you will be very pleased !, You will use less paint and have
a very nice finish ..

><
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Old 09-10-2006, 08:29 AM
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Thanks! I will be spraying in my garage so the less fog the better.

Do you think the LV4 cap would be the best for a silver metallic base?
Will my compressor keep up with this gun?
Where is the best place on the web to order one?

Thanks.
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Old 09-10-2006, 01:35 PM
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The LV4 cap should be fine for metalic. If money is not an issue you could also purchase the LVB cap so then you have the best of both worlds.. that would be the very best of both worlds.

Spraying metalic even for a seasoned pro can be difficult. I suggest that
when you purchase the gun you run a few practice passes with it first
before you go flat out and paint with it.

There is also another board that deals with Iwata products that can provide
excellint info specific to the product !

http://www.asetusa.com/phpBB2/viewforum.php?f=3

And a link to a company that sells the gun

http://www.autopaintersupply.com/Mer...y_Code=ISGAUTO

I believe your compressor should be able to keep up. !

Best of luck to you !

><
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Old 09-10-2006, 03:27 PM
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For those that paint in your garage, what type of respirator setup do you have? I had gotton all the equipment including the HF spray gun and as I do research on respirators, I became really nervous about the protection they provide especially for the ISO's that are in the urethane base coat / clear coat products.

Seems like the only way to be really safe is to the use the supplied air systems and complete body suits.
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Old 09-11-2006, 07:27 AM
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Well,

I sprayed SPI Epoxy for the first time this weekend (fantastic stuff!), and I used the "Respirator in a Bag" for protection. The guys in the Paint Shop at work use them, so I figured it was good enough for me (cost about $25). The guy at the Paint Store said you can get 24 hours worth of usage out of it, just mark it on the bag when you're finished so you can keep track-seemed to work fine....
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Old 09-11-2006, 08:04 AM
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The Activated Carbon (often erroneously called "charcoal") filters work just fine IF you get a good seal, have fresh filters (some are good for only 8 hrs so check the specs) and the concentrations of contaminates is not too high. This really is not too hard to do just use a bit of common sense because failure of these things is usually caused by carelessness or ignoring the guidelines. If you follow a few simple rules you can safely use these respirators, it is done everyday.
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Old 09-11-2006, 09:32 AM
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"The Activated Carbon (often erroneously called "charcoal") filters work just fine IF you get a good seal, have fresh filters (some are good for only 8 hrs so check the specs) and the concentrations of contaminates is not too high. This really is not too hard to do just use a bit of common sense because failure of these things is usually caused by carelessness or ignoring the guidelines. If you follow a few simple rules you can safely use these respirators, it is done everyday."

I'll agree that "it is done everyday", and that Activated Carbon do filter ISO's, again with the qualifications you listed. (How many respirator users had them properly fitted?) But those are a lot of things that need to happen to ensure your safety. Add to that also, that ISO's get into your system through your skin and eyes, if not protected.

When you think about how much money we spend on sprayguns, compressors, & tools in general, a fresh air system is cheap. You can pick a Hobbyair or Neoterik system with a hood, (to protect your eyes) for under $400. Then get a few Tyvek suits or a good paint suit.

And, as far as a spray gun goes, if you are new to painting, whatever gun you get, you should practice before you paint you ride. LVLP guns are great with low output compressors, but they spray slow, which can lead to orange peel. Conventional guns are much faster and put more material out, which can lead to runs. Compliant guns (Devil GFG 670) fall somewhere in between. The basics of the different guns are based on transer ratings, due to governmental regulations. HVLP are supposed to transfer, I believe, around 85%, Compliant 65%, and ?? for conventional.
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Old 09-11-2006, 10:55 AM
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Toy, I agree with you 110% and I have spoken out about taking chances with ISOs several times in the past. There is no doubt that a supplied air system is the best way to go and compared to other costs for paint it really is not expensive but for the same reasons that people use cheap material they are going to try and save money on safety too. The Carbon filters can be used safely and I have done so for many years sometimes for things even worse than ISOs so if the user will take the time to use them right and become aware of the limitations they should have no problems with using them. The bad experience I had with ISOs about 15 years ago came about because of carelessness, I would enter the booth before the fumes were completely gone, mix paint without protection and occasionaly allow myself to get some exposure to paint fumes when someone else was spraying. I called it carelessness but stupidity would be a better word for it and I was sick from this stuff for a long time, made a believer out of me!
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Old 09-12-2006, 05:57 AM
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Oldred - agreed. But those new to painting and the hazards involved may think that the mask is all they need. Ie: no fitting, no new cartridges, etc. I'm guilty of the same carelessness/stupidity that you noted. Most people will go out and buy a respirator and use it. Not knowing whether it fits properly or not. They think the cartridges are still good, and use them when they paint, or they think they have a fresh set after they mixed the paint. Just be safe. I have a mild sensitivity. Before I got my Neoterik unit, I would have shallow breath and a cloudy head for 3-4 days, from mixing, spraying, or looking after the paint job. Now when I'm done, I feel the same as when I woke up.
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Old 09-12-2006, 06:09 AM
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I too have fear of the iso's, did most of my painting outside. built a screen paint building with that really light garden cover designed to keep bugs off of plants. worked well an breathes really well. but again I dont live in a town either.
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Old 09-13-2006, 11:12 AM
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What about??

I just ran across this setup from Eastwood
Eastwood
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Old 09-14-2006, 07:37 AM
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[QUOTE=x711]The LV4 cap should be fine for metalic. If money is not an issue you could also purchase the LVB cap so then you have the best of both worlds.. that would be the very best of both worlds.

Help me understand this better, the LV4 cap is for metalics and the LVB cap is for clears ?
thank you for your time
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Old 09-14-2006, 10:42 AM
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The LV4 is a standard cap on the Iwata lph-400 lv gun, Its designed to spray
clear, base, metalic etc.

Iwata developed the Lvb cap. It was specificaly engineered for use with base and hard to spray material such as certain metalic or pearl paint.

If you only spray pearl or metalic, you might get better results with the lvb cap. But your still going to have to use clear. So by default you would need the LV4 standard cap.

Using the LVB cap the gun is configured to run 6 to 10 psi at the inlet
"Pretty wild eh" but you will be working close to the surface typically
4 to 6"

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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 09-14-2006, 02:31 PM
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Thank you x711, that helped me out.
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Old 09-14-2006, 07:29 PM
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For the occasional home garage painter the respiratorthat 3M puts out in the bag works great, but you want to make sure that you get a disposable paint suit or even spend a little more and get one that is washable. You can absorb the ISO's thru your skin. I am surprised more people aren't concerned about that. Breathing it is as bad as getting in the blood system.
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