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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 10-14-2013, 05:43 PM
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Well so far I have the roof and hood stripped down to bare clean metal and no signs of any rust or pitting so that is good, and only two small areas that are skimmed with filler. I will do the trunk lid and rear fins next as it seems that the horizontal surfaces are the only areas with obvious problems under the surface. The tops of the front fenders also have a few small blisters. The doors I would rather not strip all the way down unless I find reason I may need to since I know they have a fairly heavy skim coat in certain areas that I had to metal patch.

I have been using 80 grit on 6" DA and an air board to strip so far. Would you recommend a different grade?

This is the '59 belair I'm working on --- '59 Belair

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 10-14-2013, 05:51 PM
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No, I would stick with 80 grit on the DA...no need to go coarser, just make sure you keep the paper sharp. On the doors, I understand not wanting to go down to metal if you have a skim coat on the doors....it would still be a good idea to take off as much paint as you can...use it as a blocking material if nothing else to ensure that the door stays straight or...gets even straighter. It sounds as though you know what's underneath the paint on the doors regardless...when you do sand the doors, finish them finer than you would metal....I finish all my substrates for primer in 320 grit...just so I don't have any sand scratches showing up down the road...a few coats of a quality epoxy would also be recommended.

Hope this helps

Ray
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Old 10-14-2013, 05:58 PM
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Hey thanks! I'm pretty new to body and paint work. It's quite easy to remove the old stuff (though labor intensive), but confidently laying on a new finish has me scared and I would rather not let this bare metal sit any longer than necessary as my shop is dry but not climate controlled and it's in the 40's here now. What is a good budget minded epoxy primer you guys would recommend for a beginner, and is it OK to just spray out a panel at a time as I strip them? I only own a Harbor Freight gravity feed gun, but it has worked OK and some guys that spray even recommend it as a quality tool for the price.
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Old 10-14-2013, 06:11 PM
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The best Epoxy primer for the money and for any money as far as that goes is SPI...it runs about $66.00 for the primer (per gallon) and $66.00 for the activator (per gallon). It's an easy 1 to 1 mix and shipping is free. This product sands extremely well for an Epoxy, it will give you the piece of mind after it's been applied...great rust protection as well. Here is their web site.

Home

Give them a call, maybe pick up a gallon or 2 of wax and grease remover as well...they make top of the line products and are priced extremely well. If you need any other information, feel free to ask, I'll be happy to help...and when it comes time to paint...we can walk you through it.

Hope this helps.

Ray
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Old 10-14-2013, 06:22 PM
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Ray, the SPI Epoxy is $86.10 per gallon of primer and $86.10 per gallon of activator. Also to the OP, If you decide to use epoxy, make sure the metal temp and air temp are above 65 degree F or you will have curing problems with it. Best of luck with it.

Kelly
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Old 10-14-2013, 06:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carolinacustoms View Post
Also to the OP, If you decide to use epoxy, make sure the metal temp and air temp are above 65 degree F or you will have curing problems with it. Best of luck with it.Kelly
Oh that may be a problem. I can get my shop up to 70 degrees but would need to shut off the furnace when painting and drying to eliminate stirring dust (overhead venting) and without good insulation the temp drops fast inside. What is a typical cure time for the epoxy primer. Would you guys really worry about leaving bare metal panels in a cold dry shop for weeks if not months while I work the body?

I may need to hire out to do the finish work if I am going to be satisfied with it, and right now I don't have very good water separation from my compressor.
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Old 10-14-2013, 06:40 PM
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My bad Kelly...I was thinking $172.00 per 2 gallon kit and did a mental math error in my head...Thanks for catching that...again...Kelly...LOL...sorry to the OP...Kelly is right.

I wouldn't leave the bare metal exposed that long...your better off to prime it, have a little dust in your primer (it will sand out) than to leave the panels exposed. Water separation is important...but can be managed with some filters...those filters could be paid for by doing the priming yourself.

Typical full cure at 75 degrees for Epoxy is about 1 week...it is workable or sandable before that.

Ray
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Old 10-14-2013, 07:52 PM
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Oh man to keep my shop at 75 for a week would be severa hundred $$ in propane and my tank is only 100 lb. hitting low 40's every night.
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Old 10-14-2013, 08:08 PM
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That would be a problem...the product does need heat to cure...as does every isocyanate based catalyzed paint material...Now when I say a week...that is total cure through, the recoatablity widow is one week where sanding isn't required until it has cured for 7 days...sand time is different, it will sand fine after 48 hours (and even before). The problem wouldn't necessarily be keeping the temperature at 75 degrees, if you could prime the whole vehicle at once, the problem is priming it panel by panel after it has been stripped and maintaining the temperature...that's where the length of time comes in and becomes serious the closer we get to the real cool temperatures...even in Oregon. As I mentioned, this would be a similar problem, no matter what primer you choose...they all need heat to cure.

Ray
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Old 10-15-2013, 09:48 AM
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I live in Miami so this may be a totally dumb answer to someone who lives where it gets cold, but since you are primering only one panel at a time, couldn't you just use one of those cheap halogen light stands that has two or three lights on it to keep a panel warm for a day? Or does epoxy need to stay warm longer than that? It seems to me that the lights would keep the metal warm enough. Just a thought.
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Old 10-16-2013, 05:48 PM
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Any extra health risks to spraying that stuff? Do I need a particular kind of respirator? What size tip would I want on the gun to lay it down nice? Any other things necessary to use it? Special clean up solutions?
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Old 10-16-2013, 05:53 PM
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Also if I bought a gallon, once I open it is it done or can I reseal any remaining primer and activator (not mixed of course) to use at a later date? Does it have a shelf life? I'm just wondering if I should order it by the quart or gallon. Is it no recommended to spray the epoxy primer over other finishes, just bare metal or does it really matter? Thanks guys. I think I may plug my nose and take the plunge!
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Old 10-16-2013, 05:58 PM
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Same health concerns as any other catalyzed paint...a regular respirator would be fine. I'd recommend a 1.5 tip...minimum 1.4...clean up is regular gun wash.

Halogen lights would possibly work...infrared heat lamps could also be used. Some of these are specifically designed to cure paint and primer...I bought my last one for about $150....these days I'm not in that much of a hurry and don't really use them anymore...but I like the suggestion...I'm sure Home Depot or Costco, places like that would have lamps that could heat the primed area for a couple of days...after several hours with an infrared lamp placed several feet away...the primer should be cured. Then move on to the next several panels.

Now, infrared is a different than just an ordinary heat lamp...an ordinary heat lamp would take longer.

Ray
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Old 10-16-2013, 08:30 PM
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I like the infrared light idea and it would be nice to have one around, but they are not cheap. I found what seems like a quality one for sale online for about $160, but it says it's good for a 2'x3' coverage area at 1500 watts. I wonder if it would supply enough heat to carry through the whole surface area of the roof to cure it.
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Old 10-16-2013, 08:45 PM
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That would depend on the temperature outside seeing that your not in an insulated shop and how it would be mounted...it would be tricky for sure, the metal temperature should be 75 degrees before you spray...keeping it there...if you had 2 lamps and suspended them from the ceiling, keeping them a few feet from the surface...then that shouldn't be a problem...even with a large roof, hood and deck lid like your car.

Maybe someone else has a solution...your lucky your not on the Prairies...I don't think there are enough heat lamps in Oregon to keep a hood warm at minus 35.

Ray
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