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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 10-16-2013, 09:00 PM
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While reading through this thread and thinking about the heating problem, I had a thought of my days in masonry work. This may be a little unorthodox, but it just might work if you have enough room in the shop. If you were to build a small frame out of 2x4's (cheap grade) and wrap it in plastic on all sides leaving an access point on one side, you could likely heat it with a small electric space heater. It would not work for the pieces on the car, but if you are doing one piece at a time, it would accommodate everything except the shell (quarters and roof). I am thinking like a 10'x10'x6 1/2' sized area that would work like a micro climate. Think mini green house lol. Maybe get a little creative and make a couple "windows" flaps that could be opened during spraying to remove overspray and then close them to retain heat. Just a thought, maybe you or someone else could improvise and come up with something that would work out for you. It came to mind because we used to use 2x4's and tarps to create a work area in the winter for masonry work. If you could get the metal temp to 75-80 prior to painting, then seal it off and continue heating after you finish it should work well.

Kelly

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2013, 06:28 AM
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He does have a garage Kelly, it's just not insulated...for the cost of insulation and vapor barrier...that might be a way to go and then get a space heater...I've been in Portland in January and it felt like short sleeve weather to me...but, I flew in from Saskatchewan where we would open the refrigerator door in Winter to warm up...LOL.

Ray
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2013, 07:45 AM
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I understand he has a garage, but I was thinking maybe he could build a small enclosure inside the garage with plastic to create a micro climate that would be easier to heat than the whole shop. May not be the best solution but it would be a relatively cheap fix.

Kelly
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2013, 07:48 AM
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Okay Kelly, understood, just wasn't sure if you realized that he was in an uninsulated garage.

Ray
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2013, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
Okay Kelly, understood, just wasn't sure if you realized that he was in an uninsulated garage.

Ray

Ray, I appologize if that reply seemed a bit sharp. I was on my phone and part of the reply was deleted. As I read over it again, it seemed a bit abrasive lol. I had read that he was in an uninsulated shop, and understand that he has trouble heating the whole shop for a reasonable cost. I was trying to recommend (we all know I am not the best with words sometimes) that he build a simple frame, say 10x10 about 6 1/2 feet high and wrap it in plastic or tarps to create a small paint booth type structure. It would be fairly inexpensive and he could heat it much easier than the whole shop. The down side is he could only do one panel at a time and it would have to be taken off of the car. Hope that makes a little more sense, sorry again if I was short in my earlier posts.

Kelly
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2013, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by carolinacustoms View Post
Ray, I appologize if that reply seemed a bit sharp. I was on my phone and part of the reply was deleted. As I read over it again, it seemed a bit abrasive lol. I had read that he was in an uninsulated shop, and understand that he has trouble heating the whole shop for a reasonable cost. I was trying to recommend (we all know I am not the best with words sometimes) that he build a simple frame, say 10x10 about 6 1/2 feet high and wrap it in plastic or tarps to create a small paint booth type structure. It would be fairly inexpensive and he could heat it much easier than the whole shop. The down side is he could only do one panel at a time and it would have to be taken off of the car. Hope that makes a little more sense, sorry again if I was short in my earlier posts.

Kelly
LOL...does that mean I can take the bandaide of my feelings?...LOL Kelly, I never even gave it a second thought...I've been married most of my adult life...I can handle a tad more than that...LOL

All's good and I understand the suggestion and thanks for that...I'm sure between you, I, others on the site and the OP's money, we can come up with something that's going to work without to much expense...LOL

Ray
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2013, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
LOL...does that mean I can take the bandaide of my feelings?...LOL Kelly, I never even gave it a second thought...I've been married most of my adult life...I can handle a tad more than that...LOL

All's good and I understand the suggestion and thanks for that...I'm sure between you, I, others on the site and the OP's money, we can come up with something that's going to work without to much expense...LOL

Ray

Take off the bandages, but leave the stitches in for a few more days

Kelly
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2013, 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by RatPin View Post
Any extra health risks to spraying that stuff?
I know 2k and clears have iso's, if I'm recalling correctly I do not believe SPI epoxy has iso's. But don't quote me. Wear a half face respirator and eye protection.

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Do I need a particular kind of respirator?
P or N95 rate with NIOSH organic vapors rating.

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What size tip would I want on the gun to lay it down nice?
Pretty sure I saw Ray touch on this, a 1.5 would work well.

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Any other things necessary to use it? Special clean up solutions?
It's not rocket science. Surface needs to be impeccably clean before spraying, using wax and grease remover (NOT lacquer thinner). Saturate paper towel, wipe on with one hand, with dry towel in second hand, wipe off. I do this at least twice. If my wet towel is clean after wiping the metal I'm done. If there is a lot of stuff that keeps coming off on the towel, I keep repeating.

To clean out the gun I just use lacquer thinner.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2013, 04:16 PM
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Also if I bought a gallon, once I open it is it done or can I reseal any remaining primer and activator (not mixed of course) to use at a later date?
Hell no it's not done. Close the lid, pull it off the shelf two years later and and use if you need to. Just make sure you mix well to get all the solids off the bottom, and don't stop mixing until there are no solids left on your stir stick.

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Does it have a shelf life? I'm just wondering if I should order it by the quart or gallon.
Not one that I'd be worrying about if I were you. I just used up a kit of epoxy this year that I bought in 2009 or 10.

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Is it no recommended to spray the epoxy primer over other finishes, just bare metal or does it really matter? Thanks guys. I think I may plug my nose and take the plunge!
the great thing about epoxy is it goes well over many finishes...in fact it's what's recommended to apply over an existing finish if you wish to add other finishes. Just don't put it over a substrate previously treat with acid that wasn't properly neutralized, same goes for soda blasted metal.

Don't make this harder than it needs to be. To spray your epoxy, all you need to do is clean your panel, mix it up, let activate for at least 30 min (the longer the better), strain it into your cup and spray. Now for my own advice...I've read and heard many horror stories of what happens when epoxy is sprayed too cold, doesn't cure, and stays gummy and is a disaster to remove. Barry recommends a metal temp of at least 60F so don't spray unless the air temp is at least 65F. Because I'm weird about this stuff, I don't spray unless it's at least 70 outside and will remain above 65 for at least 4 hr.

Painting panel by panel is a great idea, things don't get too overwhelming, but I would really, really, really recommend you just hold off on this until the spring. It will take a lot of effort and some mulah to get an adequate heat system set up, and if it still ends up being inadequate, you're going to have a lot of heartache in sanding off uncured epoxy that you paid money for.

As for sanding paint off, I don't like to even sand in the shop because of the dust, I like to push the car oustide and sand. So maybe spring time would be a good time to wait to do this anyways. Once it gets real cold out there you aren't going to want to be out there anyways.
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2013, 04:38 PM
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you can use old heating blankets to warm the surface overnight for spraying the next day. then you only need to warm the garage up for spraying. keep your materials warm also.
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2013, 06:03 PM
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The old electric blanket trick, great memory Shine !


And after shooting them and the epoxy has tacked off you could keep the panel(s) warm for days for pennies a day.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2013, 06:30 PM
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yeah jc clark ruined me with that one . got me hitting garage sales like an old woman .
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2013, 06:33 PM
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Last time I used the ol' blanket trick was on some home mix cement pad I poured in freezing weather. The blanket on some plastic sheeting and another blanket on the top and things worked great. No frost pop at all.

now back to the regularly scheduled topic
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 10-22-2013, 08:04 PM
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Good idea on the blankets!
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 10-22-2013, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by shine View Post
you can use old heating blankets to warm the surface overnight for spraying the next day. then you only need to warm the garage up for spraying. keep your materials warm also.

Thanks Shine, It's post like this that make me love this site more everytime I get on here, and make feel a little more dumb for not thinking of something so simple...

Kelly
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