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Old 04-12-2008, 05:25 AM
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Paint job went wrong

I could not get the paint to paint to spray properly.
I had trouble with the gun setup but I could not tell if it was the gun, the paint or conditions.

On the third coat it had covered well but the silver was blotchy. It is what I feared would happen. I had even put up a post about it before I bought the paint.

In order to fix it I tried to apply dust coat. It worked it was a nice even coat.
The problem is the paint was too dry and the paint droplets were to big.
I was left with an odd somewhat glossy sandpaper look

I used Kirker Acrylic Enamel. Can it be wet sanded? If I wet sand though the overpay would it still be blotchy underneath?

I could just sand and repaint but I just don't have the time. I may even leave it alone. It almost looks like it was on purpose.

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Old 04-12-2008, 06:36 AM
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Sounds like the first few coats were put on to wet and the metallic moved or just a bad spray pattern etc...and you tried to fix it with a dust coat as noted.
If you wet sand a metallic color without clear on it....IT will be blotchy. Why not put some clear on it??? If the paint is still green (check the window of opportunity for your top coat used) IMHO all metallics should have clear over them..

Last edited by HalfOunce; 04-12-2008 at 06:39 AM. Reason: addition
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Old 04-12-2008, 08:02 AM
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You have just experienced why base clear for metallics have become popular, even many pros will no longer mess around spraying a metallic in a single stage, will spend a lot of money on thier spray gun, and why cheaper paint systems are not so much of a bargain. Not the easiest thing for someone fairly new to spraying to tackle a single stage in a metallic. I did a few in the past with little gun time, but also had an instructor there in the booth on my first go. I don't know if I'd do it any more today, knowing base is an easier system for metallics, and the benefits a urethane clear coat provides.

No, you can't really buff without effecting the metallic more, and you may allow to oxidize sooner removing the thin clear protective layer. If a hardener wasn't used then buffing it will be nearly impossible to buff.

Now with enamel, you will have to watch your recoat window if you repaint, so you don't end up with a wrinkled mess on your hands. I just checked Kirkers tech sheet (can't believe you had me visiting kirkers site) If you didn't use the hardener (hopefully did), it could be weeks. If a hardener were used Kirker states a minimum of 24 hrs. Could also contact kirker as well and see what they have to say. Think I'd sand to cut the surface in this case and leave it sit out in the sun for awhile, and give some time before attempting recoating. You can see the product sheet here.
If you do repaint, in advance get the gun adjusted and spraying well, and maybe some more practice with your spraying stroke keeping proper overlap and distance, don't use too fast a reducer. If you need a drop coat, do wait too long. Long enough that it isn't helping or is contributing to mottling, short enough that the panel is still wet enough to accept your drop coat. Normally after you have spraying another panel or two, its time to go back and do your drop coat on that previous panel. Once you have good coverage, it may help some adding a touch extra reducer to your last coat for evening metallic. Don't know what pressure you sprayed at, but if paint droplets are too big, maybe you possibly need to bump up your air pressure or turn in (lessen) the fluid flow on your gun, if you have proper reduction and your gun tip choice is correct.
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Old 04-12-2008, 08:24 AM
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What kind of gun did you use? There is probably not a worse color to paint then silver with a low end gun. Then compound it with a single stage paint. Ouch. Give us some specifics like type and brand gun, pressure used, how you mixed the paint,air compressor size/output, your experience and there will be someone like Kenseth17 who will be able to give you good advice
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Old 04-12-2008, 09:37 AM
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Metallics oh boy!

Clean the gun!! If the gun has been used before... clean it! Also a good practice is to have an old hood or something similar, make a mix and test coat the sacrificial test panel to see what the heck is happening... If the test is good--- the rest is automatic?

Usually with Acyl. enamel metallic you can end up with the old tiger stripe situation.. To avoid this dreaded disease try cross coating the job. Spray a base coat vertically then on the next pass spray horizontaly. In most cases you can avoid the sag of metallic that sometimes can happen when trying to get a good wet coat for a finish.

If none of this works----PUNT!:-) Seriously I almost always finish everything in Acrl enamel. Very durable, high shine, good depth. Stays stuck!

The only other thing I might mention here is air pressure. Enamels like good constant air pressure. If the pressure varies, drops off, you will not have constant atomization and the paint will begin to marbel or spatter. HVLP guns do a good job at a lower pressure with atomization and need alot less cfm to get a nice job. Sometimes you can get abetter slick finish and flow by cutting the mix a tad with reducer. This will cut down on the orange peel look and alow for a better flow out. However don't change too much from manufactures directions for mix.. But you should always be aware of the weather conditions and the effects they have in paint finishing. If you thin the paint too much with reducer to slow down the flash time, you will also end up with a rather dry looking, or cloudy finish. Careful tweaking is the key to a good finish. Metallics are not for the beginner, but don't quit. We can only get good by trying... Hey! even someday I might get good!

Last edited by Big Don; 04-12-2008 at 09:47 AM.
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Old 04-12-2008, 09:32 PM
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This may sound stupid, but are you sure you reduced the paint properley? I've seen a couple guys in my class have huge problems with 'dry' spray and it not laying down well, because they hadn't reduced it properley.
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Old 04-13-2008, 05:58 AM
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I could just sand and repaint but I just don't have the time. I may even leave it alone. It almost looks like it was on purpose.
It sounds to me like you got in too big of a hurry from reading your other post on prepping it. And maybe lack of experience. Painting is something that can't be rushed. You have to make sure that all of your ducks are in a row BEFORE ever starting. Clean gun is a MUST. Proper paint, thinners, etc. I did see where you had a fast reducer. This may have been a partial cause. You did not mention the size of your compressor, gun type, etc. A little Sears portable compressor and a Harbor freight $19.95 gun is not going to give you what you are looking for. Compressor hose size is also important. Now you want to fix it but don't have time. The only way to fix it is to take the time, sand it down to smooth it, then give it a coat over what you have. Silver is notorious for "tiger striping". What I have done in th epasst on the last coat is to pull back and mist it on to eliminate the striping. But to do this, you have to know the technique and have the paint mixed correctly. You do this with a fast dry reducer and you are guaranteed to have dull looking areas.
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