Hi all,
I'm working on 2 Corvettes. My '69 is in Gelcoat (Evercoat) needing to be blocked before SlickSand and Paint. My '67 is GelCoated and I'm blocking the SlickSand prior to paint - I should be done by tomorrow. I'm trying to decide on a paint brand for a base/clear application. Now for the question - I stopped by the local auto paint supplier today to chat a bit. We talked about Glassrit which I'm sure is a VG product. I just searched their #55 line which is solvent based, not waterborne and my paintcode #983 Goodwood Green metallic. I see that the formula varies whether the car is small, medium or large. Is that the way they do it? Sounds like a good way to get a big paint color variation. I thought #983 for a 1967 Corvette would be 1 formula - or am I missing something (which is quite possible). Thanks
ps. he told me I should shoot another coat of SS just prior to paint? I didn't want to do that and thought I could use a sealer but he said the adhesion wouldn't be good for the base coat unless I used the Slicksand? Is that correct?
fred , ignore the paint salesman. if he was any good he would not be standing behind a bench .
also do not fall for the summit , kirker , omni and other assorted bottom shelf junk that is so loved here . you've invested far too much time and work in the car to top it off with car lot paint .
fred , ignore the paint salesman. if he was any good he would not be standing behind a bench . also do not fall for the summit , kirker , omni and other assorted bottom shelf junk that is so loved here . you've invested far too much time and work in the car to top it off with car lot paint .
I agree with Shine, go top of the line or close with your paint, it's well worth the investment. I am confused exactly what you mean "I see that the formula varies whether the car is small, medium or large." What in the heck are you saying? The formula looks different? What do you mean?
First off you eliminate any color difference between panels on your car by buying it all at one time, one can (or a few intermixed) one color, done deal.
On the counter guys knowledge, first off we have no idea why he is there, he could be a painter who has a new job, he could be a very knowledgable passionate guy in paint, we have no idea. He also sees even if he isn't touching sees WAY more paint and problems than any one painter ever could. So he often has a LOT of experience in what happens and how to avoid problems than a painter doing it every day!
Take what he says as gospal, heck no, but take it as another form of info just like this forum and confirm what you can to make the best choices with the info you get.
I agree with Shine, go top of the line or close with your paint, it's well worth the investment. I am confused exactly what you mean "I see that the formula varies whether the car is small, medium or large." What in the heck are you saying? The formula looks different? What do you mean?
Brian - this is what I'm talking about - Color-Online
Formula
Target ltr kg
Base Amount Cumulative UNIT
352-91 173.7 173.7 g
M99/10 48.8 222.5 g
A136 257.1 479.6 g
A974 255.2 734.8 g
M1 95.8 830.6 g
A640 87.5 918.1 g
A335 9.2 927.3 g
Formula varies by size of car? No, it doesn't.....
I would not spray slicksand before color. I would use a sealer as you had planned.
I also would spray a 2k primer or epoxy over the ss.
And if you havent seen the thread about the seams on my vette. Take a look, might save you some trouble.
fred has done everything right on the car up to this point. using high build polyester for a sealer is when i would stop listening. i know many counter guys who are good painters but many are just riding a clock.
do as you wish but i think you are about to screw up 2 years of work.
The tech sheet for SlickSand says "Does not require a sealer prior to top coats."
I think I'd be better off with either Epoxy primer or a dedicated sealer to whatever brand of Base paint I go with.
My comments are an "In general" comment not on this particular subject. Listen to them and listen to others like Shine and use that info to educate yourself and make good choices.
Unfortunitely, the link does not bring up the page. I did a copy and past of the page. When you are in the formula for GM 983 Goodwood Green, it asks you - Entire car, small car, medium car or Large car. The mix forumulas are all different except that Entire car mix formula is the same mix as Large Car.
From my reading, my thinking is that GelCoat over bare glass is the best protection against $h** wicking up in 40+ year old fiberglass. I had problems in the '67's left top and left side fender with "wicking." I ground out the whole area and replaced it with 4 layers of West Epoxy and matte. Covered that with VPA, then the Gelcoat. It was either that or a top surround replacement (which I did on my '69) but with replacement quality panels being what they are, it's still a crap shoot.
[..QUOTE=TWINRAY;2613930]Unfortunitely, the link does not bring up the page. I did a copy and past of the page. When you are in the formula for GM 983 Goodwood Green, it asks you - Entire car, small car, medium car or Large car. The mix forumulas are all different except that Entire car mix formula is the same mix as Large Car.[/QUOTE]
My guess is this: (and only a guess) But with many colors, (almost all) there are varients in the colors based upon the batch used from the factory.
Most quality paint companies use a system based on a "prime" formula, which is the one most likely to match. But there are varients to that formula, based upon date of manufacture, paint shop input, etc. So, what you'll end up with is (just for spits and giggles) 2000 GM code WA8624 with something like 8 variations. and then the same code changes completely in model year 2001. with a totally different formula for the same WA8624, and several variations of that color. And all of them are white used primarily on pickups.
Honda does the best at leading to the proper variant, with imbedding the 11th digit (or is it the 9th? someone correct me here) of the vin in the paint code. But that's not allways the case.
Take a look at Ford. Code YZ, and Z1 are the exact same color, down to the last drop of toner. Why did they change the code?
For a restoration, all over paintjob, I allways pick the prime formula for the color. It makes it easier for the next guy, (usually me) who has to do the repairs after a calamity.
I've never run into the "small car, mid size car, large car" scenerio. But I'm not saying it hasn't happened. But That I just have been "lucky" in my 30 years of doing this to not have run across it.
But I've gone crosseyed, looking at varience chips trying to figure out which one matches best on numerous occaisions. I'm certian that there are others here that have done the same. I've even had to bench mix to get a good match, and submit my own formula.
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