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Old 02-04-2005, 05:27 PM
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Paint for plastic

Hey all!

I decided to add some spice to my car by making a custom hood emblem. Well, I made it out of one of those thick plastic cutting boards....Problem is that I don't know what type of paint will stick to it and look good. I've heard some good and some bad about the Krylon plastic paint....I hate to buy something that will end up on the garage floor...

Any ideas on what will adhere to this stuff???

If not, any ideas on a material that I could easily aquire that I could use to make a new emblem with?
The cutting board was very easy to cut and I got it at my local grocery store, which is why I used this material.

Could I POR15 it? I would only need a few ounces...

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Old 02-04-2005, 05:31 PM
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paint

Krylon is good stuff for a spray paint.
Varathane or Urethane are plastics and come in your basic 8 colors.
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Old 02-04-2005, 05:37 PM
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Try some Krylon, cheap experiment and if it works you are in business! This stuff works pretty well on all plastics but is a little pricey for your application. That high density polyethylene that they make those cutting boards out of is the hardest stuff to coat with anything next to Teflon. If you have a plastics shop in town, a piece of ABS would be perfect. Strong and takes paint very well (they make football helmets out of it that get painted all the time).
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Old 02-04-2005, 06:57 PM
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If the stuff is polyethylene (I don't know)
You must use a spray adhesion promoter for anything to stick, with the adhesion promoter you than can use any paint you want.
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Old 02-04-2005, 07:20 PM
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Thanks guys!

I will try out some of that Krylon.

I also thought about using an etching primer on it first... What do you think? I think they use it in the Eastwood steering wheel refurbishing kit. It just might stick to it...?

I'll play with it a little this weekend and let you all know what I find out...
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Old 02-04-2005, 07:39 PM
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hi, willys is right, those white cuttingboards are polyethlene or sometimes called uhmw. it is the hardest stuff to paint. never used the krylon stuff but i doubt its going to stick to uhmw, its a very slippery plastic. the only thing that is going to give you a chance is doing what barry said. get yourself a can of bulldog adhesion promoter. its available in spray can from your local jobber, then paint on top of that. 90% of the stuff i paint is all different types of plastics so i've done my share of tests to see what works best on what. if you can get get abs as willys said then go for it. its alot easier to paint. some other easy types of plastic are acrylic/lexan types and pvc. these are all non oily types and will work well. something else that will work excelent and is very easy to shape or machine is corian or solid surface countertop material. you might be able to get a scrap from a local cabinet shop, home depot or i have even seen cutting boards made out of it too.
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Old 02-04-2005, 08:26 PM
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Read what BarryK wrote!!!!!!

Use adhesion promoter and you can use any paint. When I bought the grille for my truck it was black molded plastic. A little sanding, a little adhesion promoter, some automotive paint and good to go. BTW you can get adhesion promoter at you local paint store and it comes in a rattle can.

Kevin
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Old 02-07-2005, 06:18 PM
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Thanks for all of the suggestions!

Well, I tried the Krylon and it says it must cure for 7 days before the stuff is "chip-resistant"... If it doesn't work I'll look for some of that Bulldog.

If that doesn't seem to be worth the mess I will look into finding some other materials like corian or ABS.

Thanks!
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Old 02-07-2005, 09:10 PM
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ABS would be ideal. One of the ways to make paint stick to these greasy type plastics is to scuff it with a grey scotchbrite and 3M's prep and blend liquid then run a propane torch flame over it quickly to burn any surface contaminants without burning the piece, then I spray adhesion promoter and let it set the suggested amount of time and apply a sealer then paint with flex additive. These greasy plastics are a PITA IMO, but you can get paint to stick once the proceedure is nailed down. The scotchbrite and prep and blend liquid will give the surface some tooth for the topcoats to latch onto, and the flame and adhesion promoter are designed to evaporate the greasy surface contaminants that are constantly bleeding to the surface of these plastics. If it doesn't work out you could always use your piece to make a mould then form it out of an epoxy or fiberglass, either will accept paint well. Just an idea. Bob
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Old 02-07-2005, 09:28 PM
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actually your on the right track with the propane torch but its not really to burn off any surface contaminents. running the tip of a flame across plactics is called flame treating, and what it does is relieves the surface tension of the molecules and allows paint or adhesives to bond to it. its very odd because it really has nothing to do with the heat, just the tip of the flame touching the plastic for a split second. i do a ton of plastc repair and this is standard procedure before applying any adhesive or filler to the plastic.
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Old 02-08-2005, 05:11 PM
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Wow! You guys have given me more information on different types of plastic than I tought I'd ever know....Thanks!

It sounds to me like this cutting-board idea was not very good... But at least I learned a thing or two! I get the feeling I will spend a lot more time, effort, and money trying to get my original piece to work than if I just go find another material to use. The great thing is that during the process I have learned a bunch about plastic, I have learned how to use a scroll saw, and I've brushed up on my router technique.

So, since I am looking for another material, what do you suggest? I wanted to illuminate the piece from underneath with a lamp. My initial hopes with the cutting board was a semi transparent material that would hold a coat of transparent candy apple red paint that would light up when I flipped the switch. Obviously the difficulty in getting the paint to hold is a problem... Would plexi-glass hold the paint okay? If not, what other clear plastic could I use?

I plan on making two of them one will be on the front hood and the other will be in the back which will be used for my license plate light and double as a third brake light...
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Old 02-08-2005, 05:25 PM
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yes. you'll want to make the part from clear acrylic or polycarbonate (plexiglass/lexan). after you make the part just sand it smooth to a 600 grit finish and candy the piece. i have candied acrylic many times and it works great. you could also just leave it clear and backlight it with a red light and it would light up red but clear when off.
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Old 02-08-2005, 06:17 PM
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Sweet, Thanks! Now where do I find a piece of this stuff? Any home store, like Home Depot, Lowes etc. Or will I have to find a plastics shop? I will need a piece about 10"wide x 10"long x 1/2" thick....
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Old 02-08-2005, 06:23 PM
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you wont find thick stuff at home depot. look in the yellow pages for plastc supply or a glass supply shop. they will have it. if not goto www.mcmaster.com. they will have it in any size and thickness you want. you can also do a search for plastic supply.
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Old 02-08-2005, 07:55 PM
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Thanks!

Do you think this will work for my application?
Part Number 8574K32 It's from http://www.mcmaster.com./
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