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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 04-01-2009, 10:57 AM
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I like the epoxy first because it is what I learned.

You never know what the old paint is hiding is why I rarely go over old paint.

As for wax and grease remover, I use it at the start of the work and between steps. I had one car fisheye and it was a royal pain to rectify. It took a week of sanding in the evenings to get the car straightened out.

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Old 04-01-2009, 03:06 PM
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Could i ask what the old paint could hide? i "thought" if its fixed and isnt peeling off and is sanded down correctly then it sould be ok,but i know nothing so yano...please tell me.
cheers for al the information guys.

ohye and my car is in a garage in preston england,quite a moist atmosphere so i think its best that i dont leave the filler bare? goona shoot some epoxy over it when its done. another question is do you guys spot prime then feather out? or just prep everything then spray all your primer on in one shot? Tryna think what the best method is.
Thanks for any help.
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Old 04-01-2009, 03:25 PM
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What I'm referring to is bad bodywork (bondo covering rust and such) that is covered up with paint that hasn't started to peel.

I like primering the entire vehicle before paint so I am covering a uniform color.

Does the car in question suffer from Lucas Rot?
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Old 04-02-2009, 04:17 PM
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Sorry im dont know what lucas rot is. what is it?
However i will be removing all the filler i know of from the car and adding new if need be so i will know whats underneath.
cheers for the reply.
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Old 04-02-2009, 05:23 PM
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Proper procedures?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bartman
Sorry im dont know what lucas rot is. what is it?
However i will be removing all the filler i know of from the car and adding new if need be so i will know whats underneath.
cheers for the reply.
Well a person could go on and on about that subject
I'm not sure what Lucas rot is but if it like sothern Ontario Rot I under stand that
It's simple if you dont know what under the paint strip it to the bare metal and you'll know what needs to be fixed
Adhession of all your products very important
If you're a novice keep it simple, Their are two basic ways to get addhession( chemical and mechanical) Basically the coarser the sanding/grinding the easier you'll get mechanical addhession the finer the less likely you'll get good addhesion. Maybe this is another good reason NOT to use filler over the finished paint You get the idea ?
The closer you get to the finishing coats of paint the finer the sanding needs to be (320grit and finer for your final sanding)
Filler to day stick pretty well to any surface coarser than120grit ,Glace or filler primers I'd say need 200grit or less to adhear well .
Any way I leave it at that so not to add to the complexity
Good Luck
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Old 04-03-2009, 04:39 PM
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conroy good avice mate. cheers for that look likes im gna be using some coarse paper from now on. thanks
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Old 04-06-2009, 07:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bartman
Sorry im dont know what lucas rot is. what is it?
However i will be removing all the filler i know of from the car and adding new if need be so i will know whats underneath.
cheers for the reply.
Lucas Electrics on all the old English cars I used to work on seemed to have a problem with corrosion and failing at the most inopportune moment. A lot of my friends referred to Lucas as the prince of darkness, since the lights tended to not work because of the switches.
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