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Paint prep...again!
Hi guys new to hotrodders so excuse my cheek (this essay) and my lack of knowledge but ive got some q's about painting preperation.(and just to say i have done some reasearch im just not sure about some stuff which i dont think have been covered).
I have had my head in a bodywork book for info on painting prep for the past few weeks trying to build some knowledge and this is the procedure im going to follow let me know what you guys think,being experienced guys n'all: 1.Degrease the whole car. 2.DRY sand the whole car with 320 grit looking for a dull,scratched surface 4.Feather edge any areas that have been taken to bare metal or have noticable edges. 5.Then carry out my green gunge procedure on my slightly rusty bare metals taking them back to pure rust free bare metal. 6.Degrease then tach cloth these bare metal areas. 7.Then epoxy prime these bare metal areas.* 8.Apply my filler over the epoxy primered areas if neccessary and feather out using 220/280 grit WET SANDING.* 9.WET sand the whole car again using 220/280 grit. 10.Degrease and tach rag the whole car again. 11.High build prime the whole car and over the epoxy primer.* 12.Leave the primer to cure for a few days. 13.Apply the filler over the primer in areas that i didnt notice and feather out again using 220/280 grit WET SANDING.* 14.Apply another coat of high build. 15.Apply a misty guide coat to the car. 16.Then WET sand the high build using 1000grit for a smooth surface. 17.Degrease and tach rag 18.Ready for paint? This is the what i think i should do but... When i epoxy prime the bare metal can i not just epoxy prime the whole car? Rather than just the small areas. (stage 7) Can epoxy primer be applied over prepped paint? or just bare metal? (im thinking of the overspray from applying to bare metal areas)? (stage 7) Can filler be applied over epoxy and high build primer? (stage 8 and 13) Can high build be applied over epoxy? (stage 11) Can high build be applied over filler? And how often should i sand in between primer coats (i guess using 1000 grit)? Sorry about the huge essay Dudes but i really want this paint job to be as good as i can get it so please read my theory and let me know what yaz think. And if anything else in addition to this should be done or what shouldnt be done or what could be done to make it a better finish. If you could help me on this it would be very much appreciated. Thanks in advance. Cheers Bartman |
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ok thanks alot for the reply bmm its appreciated.
Is it better to fill to bare metal surfaces or over epoxy? dont want it dropping off. Are theyre certain types of filler that i should be using aswel? or just the body filler that you can find in an automotive paint shop? what do you think for the rest o the paint prep? Thanks alot. Bartman |
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also whats the case with sealers? should i use a sealer over my old preped paint before i apply my primers so that the old cellulose paint wont react with the 2 pack primer? or does it not matter?
any help is appreciated thanks |
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the solvents in epoxy are mild and epoxy makes a good sealer over old paint..Just be sure that any old paint is well stuck to the car and is not peeling or flaking off...
Sam
__________________
I have tried most all of it and now do what is known to work.. |
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so filler can definately be applied over epoxy primer? or is it best applied to bare metal?
and a 320 grit sanded surface is ok to apply my primer to? sorry for bein a ******* guys. thanks in advance for any help. |
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Bump. Guys?
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Filler can go over roughed up Epoxy, yes. I however prefer filler on my bare metal which has been roughed up. Your primer is fine over 320, dont you dont need to sand your filler that fine.
What I like to do is finish shaping my filler with 100, then a couple times with 180 to kill the 100 grit scratches. Then, lets say Im doing a repair to a quarter panel, Ill featheredge anything with 180 (feather edge my repair area before filler, however), then 220 around by repair and 320 the rest of the panel before surfacer. |
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ryt cool. i this any type of filler by the way? ive got some auto body filler...doesnt have to be direct to metal or anything? and whats surfacer? ive seen some stuff that gets applied over filler on beetle crisis thats quite sloppy and is a green colour...is that surfacer?
cheers for the reply. andthanks in advance |
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Any type of automotive body filler will work. Do yourself a favour and get a good, quality brand. Evercoats Rage is nice, but pricey. Theres also Excalibur gold I like alot. All filler should be direct to metal. If its not, I dont know why its in the automotive department, lol.
Primer surfacer is High-build. It is designed to filler scratches from your bodywork. For some reason bodyman (oh oh, gonna get beat up ) like to use it to fill and straighten rather then putting on that last skim caot of filler.The way I see it...filler is 20 bucks a gallon, high build is 100+...whats cheaper? |
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Again thanks alot for the help BMM.
Next questions... 1. Filler can be applied over old existing paint cant it? 2. And how long can filler be left for without any primer or top coat on it (bare filler) before it gets contaminated and moist? Basically i want to take my time with the prep and dont want to worry about my filled work geting moist,if its left for too long (coz its porous isnt it). Can i leave it for a month or two? Or should i shoot some epoxy primer over it strayt away? thanks in advance your help is appreciated. cheers. |
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Quote:
Quote:
Vince |
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Epoxy on bare metal tends to like to bite 80 grit or coarser scratches. Much finer and it probably won't hold well. I prefer to use the epoxy first, filler, high build/surfacer and epoxy as a sealer just before paint.
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why isnt it good practice to fill over old paint? i thort u cud aslong as its sanded down? So should my filler be applied over epoxy then for the best results?
and do you have to tach rag the surface before filler or can you just use wax/silicone remover? cheers guys |
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