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Old 09-24-2007, 05:23 PM
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paint prep question

I just bought a 37 Chevy sedan..the previous owner stripped the car to bare metal and then painted it. He however left minor dents all over the body which need fixed prior to me having it repainted the color I want. The dents are very very minor..what is the best way to do this? Bondo? Do I need to remove the dents to bare metal to apply bondo if thats the best way to go? Do I need to take the entire car back to bare metal prior to having it painted again? There are also a few paint drips..whats the best way to remove those also? Thanks as always.

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Old 09-24-2007, 07:16 PM
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If the person who did the work did proper work and used modern 2k material, no need to take it back down. Minor dents can be filled with a 2k finishing putty which can be applied over sanded paint or primer over fairly fresh epoxy. But its not meant for thick fill.

This is what I do with dents and dings most of the time. I like to sand the spot with 8o grit a little past where the filler will be applied (some times I will hit the spots with epoxy first and apply the finishing filler over that while still in the epoxys window for applying filler. Then once applied and ready sand the putty with 80 grit and take out some of the scratch going over some with 180 if there is a bit to sand, or use 180 from the start if it will block sand easy enough to with that. Hit the putty spots with a coat of epoxy and then some coats of 2k for fill and block sanding. Once all your little dents filled and blocked sanded ( I block out with 180),hit them with some more 2k primer. and final sand that and the car for paint. You can final sand the primer spots and car a little coarser if you will be sealing the whole thing with some epoxy primer and wetsanding or spraying epoxy primer as a sealer prior to paint (this could help with coverage of your new color and would seal everything up). and possibly wetsanding that prior to paint as opposed to spraying base over primer spots and old paint. The tech sheets for your paint or sealer should give you a recommmended final sanding grit range.

There are other ways to skin a cat though, depending on what you got and how good a job you do . Real minor stuff a 2k filler primer or polyester primer and block sanding alone may fill. Or also possible you wouldn't absolutely have to reapply filler primer over the blocked spots if you did a good job filling and the scratch is worked fine enough that will be filled by sealing or will be spraying epoxy primer on.

If you do use regular bodyfiller, its not recommended over paint or really over primer other then epoxy. Regular body filler, the spot should be over ground or blasted metal, or 80 grit metal, or over epoxy primer. You should have epoxy over any baremetal and even though you can paint over other 2k primers and still will be fine, sealing them up with epoxy before paint is better in the long run. You should read through the tech sheets for whatever products you use so you understand how to use them properly and time windows. For example many epoxys have a window of at least a few days to a week where you can apply filler, primer or paint without sanding, but many state to scuff and reapply before painting if you go past the window.

The paint drips will probably just sand out when you sand the car, unless its a really nasty one that could possibly need more agressive sanding and a shot of primer.

If you already have someone planned (Will you be painting it?) that will be painting the car, you may want to touch face with him on what how he would like to see you have it finished.
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Old 09-24-2007, 07:19 PM
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first off,what kind of primer is on the car?epoxy primer is best. anything else i would strip it back to bare metal,so you know where youre at, after priming with at LEAST 3 coats of a good epoxy primer,using a spray can of black paint (any cheap junk) its all going to be sanded off anyhow,spray a dust coat on the whole car. then sand the car with 320 grit and a long board,or a jitterbug. the black paint will stay in the dents,take a magic marker and outline the dents,use acetone to remove black spray paint, use a good bondo type polyester putty,. fill all holes,spray black again,long board til all black is gone,move over to the next dent, after all dents are filled,spray black again,sand,look for the dents you missed. after all dents are filled,spray epoxy primer 3 more times over all polyester putty,sand and get ready to paint.
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Old 09-25-2007, 08:48 PM
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Yep agree with Kenseth, as long as the previous guy knew what he was doing and used decent material don't bother stripping. Would be a waste of time lots of money and minor waves or dings would be the least of your worries for repairs. Putty, Prime (2K), Seal and shoot. Gotta disagree with using epoxy as a primer surfacer for block sanding. Have noticed on this board a lot of people getting a little carried away with and abuse of epoxy primer. It can be a great product or your worst nightmare used wrong. Use it for what it is intended for, direct to metal for superior adhesion and corrosion protection, or reduced and used as a sealer prior to basecoat, period. Most epoxies recommend only 1 medium wet coat with a maximum of 2 in most cases depending on the product, not 3,4 or whatever number to use as a primer surfacer, might as well tell people to hose on a bunch base and block sand, same thing , will it work, probably, is it right, no. You get excessive buildup in any paint product that is not intended for building your asking for disaster, peeling, solvent popping, blistering, shrinking and others. How do I know, do this for a living, starting out in production and insurance work, tried taking short cuts and skipping steps, timed saved is a dollar earned right, usually cost me more money in the long run refixing it the right way. Use the products as they were intended. Don't abuse your products and they won't abuse your end result. Sorry for the rant just trying to save somebody a headache.
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