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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 04-05-2006, 04:21 PM
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Shine,

I can understand where you are coming from- so, are you saying I take my car in to the Shop bare metal and break out the checkbook for $10 large? Or, try and do the Painting myself (scary thought )-isn't there any other options? And where IS the line? I have already done a bunch of body work on it(metal replacement and such)-please understand, I'm not trying to be abrasive here, just looking for options-

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Old 04-05-2006, 04:35 PM
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no , you can do all the prep but the painter will probly want to prime and quide coat it to make sure it's ready. now what if he shoots it and it peels or bubbles ? i quarantee he wont warranty it. i would not. it's a really grey area. it's really hard to find a shop that will do it. your best bet is to find a painter that will do it on the side maybe. just about every painter on this site has a story i bet good luck anyway.
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Old 04-05-2006, 09:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shine
just about every painter on this site has a story i bet good luck anyway.
Oh yeah, I quit painting over other people's work years ago. There's usually a few things that happen when this is done. Usually the owner takes credit for the complete job untill there's a failure then the credit gets shifted to the guy that pulled the trigger.
The last time I sprayed over soeone else's work: I shot a 32 chev coupe years ago for peanuts just to help the guy out, he had worked for weeks stripping, filling, blocking, and in the end his work looked pretty darn good. The job started with Dupont variprime and uro prime and everything was final sanded and ready to go with the car masked in the owner's garage. So I burned up a Saturday and shot the car for the guy then a few days later borrowed him a buffer and explained the colorsand and buff proceedure. It looked very very showable after assembly. Two years later the paint was coming off in different areas around the car and I got a call to come check it out. What happened to cause the failure is the guy wasn't sanding or scuffing his uro prime between applications, he was spraying primer over cured unscuffed primer as though it was lacquer and the little adhesion there was let go and the layers of primer seperated. Urethanes need texture for adhesion unless they are sprayed within the recoat window! I felt bad for the guy but Oh well, it's his work that failed. I'll never spray over someone else's bodywork again, unless I see the work being performed to make sure there's no chance of mistakes.
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Old 04-05-2006, 10:01 PM
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Painting

Quote:
Originally Posted by 35WINDOW
O.K. then,

I'll ask a question that I have been contemplating-if I do the Body work (Epoxy Primer, hopefully just a tad or no Bondo, Primer/Filler, block sand, block sand, block sand, block sand, block sand, you get the idea) get it as straight as a regular, idiot Gearhead can, buy the Paint (if it doesn't offend the Painter) take it to a reputable Shop, any guestimates on what a two-tone job would cost?

Maybe my question was answered while I tired to pose this question^^^
If a fellow can get all that done then shooting the color is not all that big of a deal...Lot of good practice shooting the primer and getting that to lay down well..

Just my take on painting..And that way it truely is yours..

Sam
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I have tried most all of it and now do what is known to work..
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Old 04-08-2006, 08:41 AM
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I you want a "paint job", go to Maaco. Most pros and experianced RE-FINISHERS know what it takes to CREATE A SURFACE to show off that finish. Not everyone can see it. Therefore, not everyone will respect or understand the DISCIPLINE required to pull off a winner. Cab said it right as well...what you begin with is key to cost. A western car with perfect original metal is still no guarantee of low cost since it's the quality of the metal SURFACE that will make it or break it. Some guys need more hrs than other to get perfection. To some of us it comes easy, to others, they may never get it down to a science. I can make some moves along the way to make anything look great, but I can see the difference from several yards away. The average enthusiast may not. Once again it boils down to what you want and what you have to work with. Nowadays I "cherry-pick" my personal work...cuz I can. "Best paint"? Too many parameters to go there. Could be color, graphics, flames, you name it. Means nothing with regard to surface quality in most cases. Look at the pic below and you'll realize what I mean by surface quality...I've posted this before, and for the record, the re-finish on this one was over 30K. But look at the spare tire in the side of the hood...the rear fender in the 1/4 panel...the surrounding area in the door...you get the idea.
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