Paint Questions - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2013, 08:10 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 4
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Paint Questions

I painted my Plymouth a few months back with Single Stage Urethane. It ran pretty good. This is a resto I left it for a bit got tired of body work so i moved on for a bit. I plan to sand it back down. Ive done all the body work on this car but im not an experienced painter. I need to buy more paint and was thinking about going with a Urethane Basecoat system same color. Can i get away with just sanding the car back down and shoot the basecoat? Thanks!

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2013, 09:17 AM
33Willys77's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 406
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 7
Thanked 57 Times in 55 Posts
You can get away with sanding the single stage and applying just clear or base/clear. BUT, if you sand through the color, you will need to apply primer over that area, otherwise, you risk having the paint lift.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2013, 09:27 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 4
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I had actually wanted to sand it all off back down to the primer. I was thinking of going with 400 to get the paint off then wet with 600 and paint.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2013, 01:49 PM
jcclark's Avatar
The Penny Pincher
 

Last journal entry: Hanging Bumpers
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Louisville, Ky. U.S.A.
Age: 61
Posts: 1,876
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4
Thanked 19 Times in 16 Posts
The less paint you paint over, the better.
You don't want to much film thickness
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2013, 06:11 PM
33Willys77's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 406
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 7
Thanked 57 Times in 55 Posts
Sanding it all off with 400 will take 'forever'. Plus, it would be very hard to keep the bodywork straight doing that too. How many coats of paint are on it now? 3-4? If so, sanding it would take off a layer, then left with 2-3 - no need to take it all off. Block out the runs, sand it (wet or dry) and spray it with BC/CC. If you sand through, put a little primer on, sand it and then paint it. If the only thing wrong with the actual paint is the runs, why take it all off?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2013, 07:46 PM
carolinacustoms's Avatar
Automotive Extraordinaire
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Connelly Springs NC
Age: 31
Posts: 980
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 361
Thanked 244 Times in 208 Posts
Why not try to sand out the runs before you plan on repainting the car? I'd rather have a run than a dry spot to fix any day. If you are careful you can prob sand them out and buffing will fix you up
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2013, 11:31 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: dallas texas
Posts: 196
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 79
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
make sure the runs are hard from the outside and the inside of the run so when u sand the run down... it wont crumble from still being soft in the underlayer.... you can also use a razor blade to shade it but shave only the run itself.. take your time... then when u get low enough you can take some 1200 sandpaper and flatten it out as well as removing any scratches from the razorblade..
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 02-08-2013, 09:24 AM
swvalcon's Avatar
Member
 

Last journal entry: rust on lt body shell
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: mn
Age: 64
Posts: 1,016
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 11 Times in 11 Posts
I would try to sand out run frist. I start with 600 or 800 rapped on a peice of a paint mixing stick and when run is flat work up to 1500 from there.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 02-08-2013, 09:49 AM
Faith - Respect - Trust
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Ontario
Age: 58
Posts: 3,508
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 192
Thanked 638 Times in 572 Posts
Before we start suggesting sanding out the runs and polishing we need to find out if it's a solid color single stage...if it's a metallic color...polishing after you sand out the runs is not possible.

If you prep the existing single stage paint using a block and 400 grit or 600 grit paper is fine...33Willys77 is correct with respect to taking a long time and keeping the car straight...if you don't use a block. If you know how to sand a car by way of properly using a block, the body work will stay straight. Also, if you sand through the SS color, (depending on what's underneath the Single Stage) and you don't spot prime, you could have lamination problems or ringing around the area you broke through...again...depending on what's underneath your single stage.

Hope this helps.

Ray
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 02-08-2013, 10:06 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 4
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
Before we start suggesting sanding out the runs and polishing we need to find out if it's a solid color single stage...if it's a metallic color...polishing after you sand out the runs is not possible.

If you prep the existing single stage paint using a block and 400 grit or 600 grit paper is fine...33Willys77 is correct with respect to taking a long time and keeping the car straight...if you don't use a block. If you know how to sand a car by way of properly using a block, the body work will stay straight. Also, if you sand through the SS color, (depending on what's underneath the Single Stage) and you don't spot prime, you could have lamination problems or ringing around the area you broke through...again...depending on what's underneath your single stage.

Hope this helps.

Ray
Color is a solid color no flake. Whats underneith was epoxy primer as bottom layer followed by 2 coats of 2k Urethane high build primer. Filler work done then 3 more coats of 2k Urethane high build primer. Car was then blocked with 400 grit and shot with Single Stage Urethane. I will sand the car down to get runs out then block with 400 or 600 then go to a BC/CC system. After reading and some videos I have decided that it may be for forgiving for a beginner such as myself.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 02-08-2013, 11:38 AM
Faith - Respect - Trust
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Ontario
Age: 58
Posts: 3,508
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 192
Thanked 638 Times in 572 Posts
Well you are right about base clear being forgiving...to a certain point...if it was a metallic color, base clear would without a doubt would be the product of choice...if you make a mistake or just want to do a quick de-nib, all you would need to do is let the base coat flash, sand the area that you want to repair and re-base and then clear...runs? Cut and polish them out. With Single Stage metallic's...that can't be done and you never get the same gloss in Single Stage as you would with base clear.

If your Single Stage paint is totally cured and you prep the car fine enough, you should be able to base right over top of the Single Stage, even if you have a few small burn throws. Your primer underneath your Single Stage is catalyzed, your Single Stage is catalyzed so the only way you should have a problem with adhesion or wringing is if it wasn't prepped fine enough (wringing) or the Single Stage wasn't cured (wringing and adhesion)...I'm sure I don't need to say this but...to keep the car straight...always use a block wherever possible when prepping a car for that mirror like finish.

Best of Luck.

Ray
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 02-08-2013, 11:47 AM
33Willys77's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 406
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 7
Thanked 57 Times in 55 Posts
Also, if you had issues the the single stage running and you are not at least a somewhat experienced painter, don't think that clearcoat will be easier. There are many times when you can not see your overlap and need to know what your gun is doing - all done with experience. Good luck and I hope it comes out good for you.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 02-08-2013, 11:47 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 4
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
Well you are right about base clear being forgiving...to a certain point...if it was a metallic color, base clear would without a doubt would be the product of choice...if you make a mistake or just want to do a quick de-nib, all you would need to do is let the base coat flash, sand the area that you want to repair and re-base and then clear...runs? Cut and polish them out. With Single Stage metallic's...that can't be done and you never get the same gloss in Single Stage as you would with base clear.

If your Single Stage paint is totally cured and you prep the car fine enough, you should be able to base right over top of the Single Stage, even if you have a few small burn throws. Your primer underneath your Single Stage is catalyzed, your Single Stage is catalyzed so the only way you should have a problem with adhesion or wringing is if it wasn't prepped fine enough (wringing) or the Single Stage wasn't cured (wringing and adhesion)...I'm sure I don't need to say this but...to keep the car straight...always use a block wherever possible when prepping a car for that mirror like finish.

Best of Luck.

Ray

Thanks Ray! I dont discount any info offered up. This is my first paint job. Its been several months since the car was sprayed with SS im sure its cured. The paint supplier also told me I could sand down the SS and go back over with BC/CC system.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
hopefully last of my paint questions... cutthroatkid Body - Exterior 12 10-05-2012 08:41 PM
prepping my car now for paint. questions on how far to sand existing paint ((sr)) kelly Body - Exterior 3 07-15-2009 11:49 AM
Paint Questions gator412 Body - Exterior 18 10-02-2006 03:40 PM
New Here - Paint Questions... toykilla Body - Exterior 2 04-25-2005 10:28 PM
Help with paint questions shavedaccord Body - Exterior 1 09-18-2003 02:11 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:22 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.