Paint Removal - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2007, 05:21 AM
got to love it stroked!
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: OHIO
Age: 41
Posts: 20
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Paint Removal

HELLO, OK I HAVE REMOVING PAINT FROM MY JEEP FOR WEEKS NOW. I DONT SEE THE LIGHT AT THE END OF THE TUNNEL, YET I HAVE MY BODY OFF THE FRAME AND ITS A FACTORY PAINT JOB.
FIRST TO ANYONE WHO HAS EVER REMOVED ALL THE PAINT FROM EVERY LITTLE PEICE OF METAL ON A CAR---> I HAVE GREAT RESPECT TO YOU!!

SO HERES MY QUESTION, IN THE CORNERS AND IN THE HOLES, DO YOU HAVE TO GET ALL THE PAINT AND HOW?
RUST (SORRY FOR USING THAT 4 LETTER WORD) HOW DO YOU KNOW IF ITS WHERE YOU CANT SEE IT, LIKE INBETWEEN PANELS? HOW DO YOU TREAT IT?
THANKS, JASON

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2007, 09:13 AM
MARTINSR's Avatar
Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: San francisco bay area
Age: 56
Posts: 13,435
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1,570
Thanked 1,324 Times in 1,149 Posts
Jason, I think you have fallen into the great black hole of misinformation.

First, why are you stripping all the paint off? If this is original paint that has not failed in some way like peeling off or something like that NONE of it needs to be removed. You just sand it and paint over it. If you have stripped it off and some remains in the nooks and crannies, again, if it has not failed in some way, leave it.

Rust, if you can't see it, there isn't much you can do about it. Basically you seal seams and you can run a cavity wax wand into the rockers and places like that to head it off at the pass.

But if you are not seeing any, you are MILES ahead and doing pretty good, have a beer.

Brian
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2007, 09:25 AM
Bare Knuckles Champ
 

Last journal entry: Made a wrench...
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: SW Colorado
Age: 42
Posts: 155
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Howdy Jason,

First, please don't type in all caps. Considered rude (aka: yelling) in online forums. Notice how MartinSr only uses it for emphasis. Thanks!

Second, how are you removing the paint? Sanding? Blasting? Grinding?

Third, what is the purpose of paint removal? Are you building an all steel rig & want to go thru every panel by hand? Or are you just repainting? Or something else?

Knowing more will help us help you better. Thanks & good luck!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2007, 05:31 PM
got to love it stroked!
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: OHIO
Age: 41
Posts: 20
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Hello, so sorry bout the caps. this is the first forum i ever wrote on. lol i have only emailed a hand full of people and im getting faster with my one finger typing

ok dont laugh but, i thought you had to remove the old paint or it would comeback to haunt you. The old paint is good, some scratches. all the rust that i could see i cut it out.
I have been using eastwoods DeCoat paint remover and sanding it with 80 grit. I tryed my 30 pound pressure sand blaster but i dont know if i was doing it right because it didnt work very good.
Im just trying to do the best that i can so i thought you had to remove old paint to get a new paint job, so now i have about 70 percent of the paint removed from the body. my hood, fenders,grill, and doors are not started yet.
so do i prime them with the same epoxy primer or use something diffrent? i have not picked out the paint color yet. I know that i want a dark blue with a metallic-> i think.
This is my first project and i have never had any training but i am really happy with it so far. the good news is the motor is done!! I am open to any paint color ideas
Thanks Alot Guys!!!!!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 01-10-2007, 08:28 PM
MARTINSR's Avatar
Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: San francisco bay area
Age: 56
Posts: 13,435
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1,570
Thanked 1,324 Times in 1,149 Posts
Jason, like I said, you are following a VERY common misconception that the paint needs to be removed. It did not, and you don't have to strip any more. Just epoxy primer the bare metal you have and then you can sand the whole car with 400 and seal it prior to paint. Sealer is a non sanding product that is like primer (in fact epoxy can many times be used as a sealer as well as a primer) on the car after it is all masked up for paint. After you spray that sealer you come back and shoot the color right over it. It is sort of like a "first coat" of paint. To get it a uniform color is the main reason you would need it in your case.

Yes, if you want to do the absolute BEST job, you would strip it as you are doing. But in the real world, "Best" is a pretty broad term and subject to opinion, some good some bad. If you have a decent original paint that hasn't failed in some way on a late model car, leave it. ESPECIALLY if this is a first time thing.

Brian
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 01-11-2007, 04:00 AM
got to love it stroked!
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: OHIO
Age: 41
Posts: 20
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Mr. Martin, thank you. you have saved me so much time and blood (from cutting myself on all the sharp edges). sorry but i have one more question. Whats the best way to remove the old seam sealer?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 01-11-2007, 03:24 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 10
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
So I'm curious, say you have a car, with rust spots showing through, and parts where its peeled off, and in fact, are pretty sure the paint was applied with a brush, you would have to take it all off?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 01-11-2007, 04:08 PM
MARTINSR's Avatar
Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: San francisco bay area
Age: 56
Posts: 13,435
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1,570
Thanked 1,324 Times in 1,149 Posts
Hollon, why would you ask such a question, that is pretty obvious isn't it?

We are talking "original" paint on this car. As I said a few times and most anyone will agree if there is "failure" it must come off, at least on the areas or panels where there is actually failure. If there is no failure, if the OEM paint is solid, it simply doesn't need to be removed.

Brian
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 01-11-2007, 06:45 PM
got to love it stroked!
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: OHIO
Age: 41
Posts: 20
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Mr. Martin
you said this;
(in fact epoxy can many times be used as a sealer as well as a primer)
how do i know if i can do it or not? because i have 1.5 gallons of 2 part epoxy primer and how would i apply it? reducer or?
doing the primer this way is there a certain type of paint that i should use or is there one that is easer than the others?
thank you , you have helped more than you know!!!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 01-11-2007, 08:30 PM
MARTINSR's Avatar
Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: San francisco bay area
Age: 56
Posts: 13,435
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1,570
Thanked 1,324 Times in 1,149 Posts
What kind of primer is this? Do you have the tech sheet? Usually it simply has some reducer added after mixing with the hardener so it will lay flatter.

1. What kind of paint do you have available to you?

2. Have you priced paint? There are "value lines" what are quite a bit cheaper.

Brian
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 01-12-2007, 02:18 AM
got to love it stroked!
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: OHIO
Age: 41
Posts: 20
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Hello
i have eastwoods epoxy primer dark gray part#12001zp and epoxy primer catalyst part #12002zp. 1 to 1 mix ratio. 16 hour pot life@ 75f . 15 min flash time. allow one hour min up to 3 days @75f prior to topcoating.
this is under the description:
eastwoods epoxy primers provide optimum adhesion with excellent corrosion protection.ew primers are designed for use as an effective primer for most substrates including steel,al.., gal steal copper brass and sanded OEM and cured paint,and body filler. not for use over lacquer finishes.
Ok so now how do tell if have a lacquer finish? Its a 1995 jeep wrangler.

as for paint i will have to order it (lol like everything around here) because there is nothing close to here.was thinking about house of color or i have read nothing but good things on here about spi paints, i think they are from Barry. im far from set in life but i try not to look at price . i dont want price to come-back and bit me later. i also dont want to pay top dollar either. lol see i dont even know what i want. thanks alot
jason
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 01-12-2007, 05:48 AM
SHIFTY101EASY's Avatar
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: Stripping Paint + Buying New Metal
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 192
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
if you use that eastwood epoxy primer let me know how it works out. what does everyone else think about it? im thinking of getting some to do my stang.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 01-12-2007, 08:21 AM
MARTINSR's Avatar
Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: San francisco bay area
Age: 56
Posts: 13,435
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1,570
Thanked 1,324 Times in 1,149 Posts
Jason, I forgot to answer your question about the seam sealer. Scraping, heating and scraping, or even "grinding" it out is common. There is no sure thing answer. I little heat will go a long way. I use an inductor but I don't expect you to have anything like that. If you have a heat gun or blow drier it may work. Most of the time, just good old scraping will get it done. Go the the auto parts store and get yourself a "gasket scraper" it looks like a screw driver but with a wide "chisel" like end on it.

Don't know a thing about the Eastwood epoxy. If it says nothing about using it as a sealer, I say don't. I mean, unless you bought out the store you aren't going to have enough anyway. Use it over the bare metal and then when it comes time to seal just get the same brand as the paint you are using.

HOK, I don't think that is a good choice at all for you. VERY expensive and when people say "HOK" they are usually talking candies or custom paints, they are likely over your head. Stick to a simple paint system.

PPG, DuPont, Sherwin Williams, etc just about all have a good system for you. Any ones recommendations for one being better than another is largely just because they use it and they are comfortable with it, but they all will do a good job for you. SPI would do a good job as well. If you don't have a source nearby then you will have to get it all over the net or thru the mail, that I don't like, but it can be done.

If you MUST order it, SPI would be a good way to go because they do have good customer support. But they may not have the color you want, that is pretty limited. I personally don't know of much on line that I could send you to being I have a paint store about two blocks from my house. I have never needed to find anywhere on line.


Your Jeep is NOT a lacquer finish.

Brian
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 01-12-2007, 04:30 PM
got to love it stroked!
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: OHIO
Age: 41
Posts: 20
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Hello,
you saidPG, DuPont, Sherwin Williams, etc just about all have a good system for you.
Is that the same sherwin williams paint store that has house paint? i do know where on of those are at thats way i am asking.
i know i want a deep or drak blue color.
the heat worked great for the seam sealer thanks!! What would a simple paint system be?color coat then clear? im not afraid to try anything but i will follow your advice. thanks again Jason
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 01-13-2007, 10:01 AM
MARTINSR's Avatar
Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: San francisco bay area
Age: 56
Posts: 13,435
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1,570
Thanked 1,324 Times in 1,149 Posts
Like all multi billion dollar companies Sherwin Williams has many different divisions. They have house paint, industrial paint (they supply the paint for the Golden Gate bridge) and automotive refinishing are just a few of what they have I am sure. It is like PPG makes glass, does that mean they don't make paint products as well? DuPont makes chemicals used in bug sprays for your home, does that mean they don't make paint products?

They are a competitor of the biggest companies and sell hundreds of millions of dollars of automotive paint all over the world. The shop I work at does 4 million dollars in business a year, spraying 150 cars a month (spot, collision repairs, not completes) using it.

But there are DOSENS of choices. I just thru that out because it may be available to you. PPG, Valspar, DuPont any of them you may find will give you a nice job. And the value lines will give you a nice job saving you some money. And yes, a basecoat clear coat system is a good way to go.

You will need to put some feelers out there and get some other guys help in who to go with. I certainly don't know all that is available. But I do know that every one of these companies will have products for you to do a nice job.

If I am the only one responding to you here maybe you need to go over to autobodystore.com or autobody101.com or someone where there are a lot more ideas for you.

Brian
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
wax and grease remover adrock430 Body - Exterior 14 07-30-2006 01:18 PM
Cost of paint Job - complete do it your self job at home Warrant Body - Exterior 74 07-13-2006 10:31 PM
Paint Removal And Filler 67camarokid Body - Exterior 6 04-30-2006 10:57 PM
easy paint job info needed pjd Body - Exterior 1 08-09-2005 11:30 AM
engine paint removal Grey80Ghost Body - Exterior 3 08-06-2003 05:10 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:05 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.