paint run removal - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 01-06-2008, 08:38 PM
75sprintguy's Avatar
Member
 

Last journal entry: a good used 350 we installed
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: north alabama
Age: 38
Posts: 117
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
paint run removal

i just painted my car with some ppg gloss black enamel its nice in most places
but i found some runs in my job and a few fish eyes this is my first coat
can i just let it cure and dry then sand them out and recoat or is there
another way. i also used wet look hardner please help a newbie painter thanks

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 01-06-2008, 10:11 PM
powerrodsmike's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Make a fiberglass fan shroud
Last journal entry: Next.. ..Bagging the king B (barge)
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: gilroy, california
Age: 53
Posts: 4,108
Wiki Edits: 161

Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
I am no painter, (but I've squirted some paint).

I have had really good luck sanding runs out with one of these.


http://www.meguiars.com/?pro-blocks/Sanding-Blocks

I don't know if it'll work with the enamel though.



Later, mikey
__________________
my signature lines...not really directed at anyone in particular..

BE different....ACT normal.

No one is completely useless..They can always be used as a bad example
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 01-07-2008, 10:19 AM
jcclark's Avatar
The Penny Pincher
 

Last journal entry: Hanging Bumpers
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Louisville, Ky. U.S.A.
Age: 61
Posts: 1,873
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4
Thanked 19 Times in 16 Posts
The main challenge with run removal is to get the run hard enough
to sand and buff, not just hard enough but as hard as the surrounding paint.
Runs stay softer than the surrounding paint because of their thickness,
so they sand and buff differently, that is why it's hard to remove the
ghost image of it.
For urethanes, you can sand it just less than flush, let it age a day
or two then finish, that helps a lot, cutting the thickness first so it
can catch up with the surrounding paint in hardness.

For enamel, it may never harden enough, but cutting the thickness first
really helps. Do that then sit it in the sun or a heat lamp.
The longer you wait, the better it should do.
Try denting it with the edge of your fingernail for a hardness test.
You'll be surprised how long you can do that with enamel.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 01-07-2008, 09:44 PM
milo's Avatar
point on positive
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: milogarage Calif.
Age: 58
Posts: 1,666
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 3
Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts
This is the best thread I've seen here in a long time and it's only 3 or 4 posts long...

It's been my experience with an ocassional fisheye to sand it half way out or flat before recoating so it will stay sealed and held down so to speak and not reappear...

As for the sanding blocks link by Powderodsmike, I'm about to order one and wonder is 1000 the grit you use most often givin a choice??

JC's point about runs being a bit softer than the rest for a while is right on,, latley I have practiced sanding before buffing with 1000 grit and then letting the sanded "opened" surface breath/gas out for another day before resanding with 2000 and then useing the buffing wheel. It seems as though they stay glossy better if givin time between operations if practical.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 01-07-2008, 10:28 PM
powerrodsmike's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Make a fiberglass fan shroud
Last journal entry: Next.. ..Bagging the king B (barge)
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: gilroy, california
Age: 53
Posts: 4,108
Wiki Edits: 161

Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by milo
is 1000 the grit you use most often givin a choice??

JC's point about runs being a bit softer than the rest for a while is right on,, latley I have practiced sanding before buffing with 1000 grit and then letting the sanded "opened" surface breath/gas out for another day before resanding with 2000 and then useing the buffing wheel. It seems as though they stay glossy better if givin time between operations if practical.

I bought a 1500 and it seems to cut really well despite it being so fine a grit..( for a long time I never even knew that there was anything finer than 600 )

I have only used the block on some single stage urethane, and some industrial polyester. (Poly-lux) It worked equally good on nibs.


jcclark, I noticed that about runs being softer in urethane and also it seemed like once I sanded into the run, and broke the surface, the paint underneath was very porous. I thought that one reason you see the ghost image of the run was as a result of the pores holding some of the buffing compound after buffing.

Polyesters get hard throughout, but are still porous in the area under the run. I would guess that is because the thicker paint doesn't have a chance to gas off once it skins.

Later, mikey
__________________
my signature lines...not really directed at anyone in particular..

BE different....ACT normal.

No one is completely useless..They can always be used as a bad example
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 01-08-2008, 02:03 AM
milo's Avatar
point on positive
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: milogarage Calif.
Age: 58
Posts: 1,666
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 3
Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts
Thought provoking .. . ...
It's tough to see in the package though I wonder if a block could be cut down in size to that of a sugar cube simalar to the metal nib file in order to keep to a confined area . A concern is how sharp the edge is. I've been toying with the idea of a small dremal type grind stone mounted on a electric tooth brush however that project is still in R&D...(as we read))..

Heres a couple pics . The second one shows a bit of flexable wire insulator in this mockup used to allow the stone "float" on top of a nib..In this test water (spit) is being used as well.

Heres a link to show a metal nib file again in different grits,

http://www.google.com/products?hl=en...&um=1&ie=UTF-8

The metal won't help fisheyes though sometimes they can help with runs.

keeping the tools/paper flat and backed up is key even at the micro level,
using a finger or a rubber block or paintstick behind paper will flex to much when in a tight pinpoint spot etc..
The stone will hold it's shape and has a future ...







Check the thumbnail (pun not intended)
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	MiniMesander.jpg
Views:	162
Size:	66.9 KB
ID:	26732   Click image for larger version

Name:	ActionNibber.jpg
Views:	3102
Size:	67.7 KB
ID:	26733  

Last edited by milo; 01-08-2008 at 03:55 AM. Reason: went and took a couple pics
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 01-08-2008, 05:43 AM
jcclark's Avatar
The Penny Pincher
 

Last journal entry: Hanging Bumpers
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Louisville, Ky. U.S.A.
Age: 61
Posts: 1,873
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4
Thanked 19 Times in 16 Posts
There are a lot of ways people attack runs. (flow indicators)

Some let it harden and level by scraping with a razor blade on end.
It has to be hardened to work, but it does work pretty good
for initial leveling.

I've heard of applying spot putty around the area before sanding,
kind of like a guide coat to protect the surrounding area.
Then sand till everything is gone.
(I haven't tried that one)

I like sanding with a hard block, I use a small section of a wooden 2x4
that I flatten before useing. I usually coarse sand first, 400 to 600 grit.
Then allow some time to harden and follow up sanding/buffing
as usual.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 01-08-2008, 08:52 PM
Rag top bird's Avatar
Hot rods are still the king
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: birmingham alabama
Posts: 326
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
You should be fine the way I get runs out is take a paint paddle cut off a 2 inch long piece then wrap it with 800 wet sand paper then spray the run with in this case flat white spray paint 1 light coat then block until all the white is gone I like the paint paddle because its not as hard on the edges and doesnt dig into the run
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
DIPPING - Paint and rust removal metaldipper Introduce Yourself 1 02-22-2007 05:30 PM
Paint Removal YJ 383 Body - Exterior 20 01-21-2007 09:37 AM
Cost of paint Job - complete do it your self job at home Warrant Body - Exterior 74 07-13-2006 09:31 PM
Looking to paint my car with OEM quality finish. Have some Questions Gro Harlem Body - Exterior 12 01-15-2005 06:31 AM
engine paint removal Grey80Ghost Body - Exterior 3 08-06-2003 04:10 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:14 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.