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Old 09-05-2006, 08:43 AM
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Paint stripping delima ???

I've been using the aircraft stripper on the 86 duelly to remove the paint as it's factory paint and just comes off so quick compaired to sanding and blasting this thin metal is out of the question on flat panels.
So, I drag the hood out to strip it and apply the stripper to about 1/3 of the hood,place some thin plastic over it and go on to other work. Come back in about 20 min and this paint has not even started to soften.
Only in areas that had been scratched or slightly rusted were bubbled up. OK, I reapply some more stripper and waited. I started scraping with a putty knife and it would barely come off. WTH????
I took my sander and hit it with som 80 gt on the rest of the hood and applied some more stripper as a test. Same result. OK, I get the air file out with some 40 gt and go after it. Applied some more stripper and where the paint was scratched down to metal,it worked up the paint.
The hood paint has a black primer under it (epoxy?) where the rest of the truck has the factory gray.
What the heck kind of paint am I dealing with that would be almost impervious to aircraft stripper? Imron???
Anything stronger to get this junk off?
Sanding is even a task as the 80 gt. won't hardly cut it and I'd end up using a ton of paper to get rid of it.

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Old 09-05-2006, 09:08 AM
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I think factory paint is usually the toughest to remove. On my 68 Firebird, the 2nd coat of paint wiped right off with stripper, but the original paint was much more difficult. You might try taking a hacksaw blade and running it across to scratch and/or cut into the paint before you apply stripper. Thatll help it get into it much faster
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Old 09-05-2006, 09:42 AM
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It sounds to me like the hood has an excellant base on it. Nothing says you HAVE to strip it to bare metal id the current paint is sound and not too thick.
I would just leave the current paint on it. D/A everything smooth and shoot it with some primer/surfacer to block out your stripped areas and leave it a that.
Mark
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Old 09-05-2006, 12:33 PM
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Thats an option Mark for sure. I just did not expect the hood was different from the rest of the truck. "If" I had any idea it was that tough/good, I would have buzzed it and primered. As it is now, I just want the best base I can get as the OEM was crap but this hood is another animal.
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Old 09-05-2006, 12:43 PM
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Bee, do you have a pistol grip air grinder?? If you do, take some 24 grit roloc disc and you will have the hood stripped in 10 minutes.. It is the only way to strip stuff.. DA'ing is twice as slow or more even if you use 36 grit DA paper..

Or you can lock the wheel on your DA, take some 36 grit and eat it right off...
Dont concern yourself with the heavy scratches either... once it is mostly stripped, DA it with some 80 to knock down the heavy marks.. Then 2 coats of epoxy, let set overnight and then 3 coats of 2k... it will block out and be fine as long as flash times are followed with your 2k and epoxy, and I dont think that will be an issue with you bro
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Old 09-05-2006, 12:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by astroracer
It sounds to me like the hood has an excellant base on it. Nothing says you HAVE to strip it to bare metal id the current paint is sound and not too thick.
I would just leave the current paint on it. D/A everything smooth and shoot it with some primer/surfacer to block out your stripped areas and leave it a that.
Mark
My thoughts exactly...... When it comes to repainting a car that has such a good finish on it already (besides your normal rock chips and scratches) then I would use it as a ground coat for everything else.

Innless it's not the original coat..... you don't want to much build.

but now that you have allready used the stripper there is no going back, you must take it down to metel.

Also.......is it just the hood, or is the rest of the car the same way?
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Old 09-05-2006, 01:03 PM
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If you got aircraft stripper from an auto parts store you got plain old stripper relabeled for better sale. You cannot buy true aircraft stripper in an auto parts store.

Marketing hype has got you again.

Vince
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Old 09-05-2006, 07:28 PM
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i have spent the last 4 months stripping my entire nova piece by piece....... i tried several different brands from ace hardware (strip eeze, etc,) and they did the job but not as good as jasco epoxy and paint remover. i bought the jasco at lowes hardware and let me tell you that stuff was far better than the other strippers ive used. when you got it on you you friggin knew it, even a very small drop hurt like heck
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Old 09-06-2006, 08:30 AM
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Thanks and my paint guy mentioned the jasco.
Relabeled huh? Whats next,Rustoleum as Chromabase?
It's definitely just the hood and I was not expecting it to be any different than the rest of the truck but as my luck goes,i should have known better.
BK was reading my mind, I got some 40 and locked the old IR and went to town with it. Hit it with some 80 and as soon as I get some low spots worked up and the backside scuffed,it's epoxy time. SPI all the way on this job
Tried out my HF stud gun and it may be a cheapie but it really did a nice job but the slide hammer is another story. Has that notched roll wheel lock tip and that just don't work worth a flip. Kinda defeats the whole process having to slam it back down to release the stud so I'm looking for another tip or hammer.
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Old 09-06-2006, 09:02 AM
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I have the same stud gun with the same slide hammer problem.
I welded a set of Visegrips to the end of an old puller I don't use
anymore. I haven't used it yet but bet it will work good.
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Old 09-06-2006, 09:05 AM
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Hehehe. I was looking around for an old keyless drill chuck.
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