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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 01-24-2011, 02:37 PM
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Think current exchange rate is 1.59

Things are usually more expensive here than where you guys are
Sounds like it's not too bad a deal then?

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 01-24-2011, 03:15 PM
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I've just spent a few minutes reading this thread again from the very beginning

Reading it back, I'd be silly not to go for powdercoat

I'm going to get the whole rolling chassis done



Now, if I'm going for a high gloss red, and the body is to be single stage red (sticking with the easy option for my first paint job) would you still advise I go with the clearcoat over the powdercoating? And if so could I still do touch ups with a colour matched paint despite having a clearcoat?
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 01-24-2011, 03:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ant_8u
I've just spent a few minutes reading this thread again from the very beginning

Reading it back, I'd be silly not to go for powdercoat

I'm going to get the whole rolling chassis done



Now, if I'm going for a high gloss red, and the body is to be single stage red (sticking with the easy option for my first paint job) would you still advise I go with the clearcoat over the powdercoating? And if so could I still do touch ups with a colour matched paint despite having a clearcoat?
matching the powder coating with some paint for doing some touch up might be tough if you go with red and clear
the clear layer of powder isnt the problem, the red is.
the clear is so thin when done, you will not notice the difference,it just makes the red look better for longer.
black is easier to touch up than red, but it can be done.
thats why everyone is saying to wait until the car is all done, then dismantle to paint and powder coat
if you are all done making repairs/modifacations to the frame go get it done if you want.

i would still go with the red, just dont get going to soon and forget something that needs to be done, after its all coated
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 01-24-2011, 03:44 PM
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your link for the pics for your car in the start of this thread is not working
you also should start a journal so we can see whats going on over there
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 01-24-2011, 04:27 PM
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Not sure if this works


http://s654.photobucket.com/albums/u...Triumph%20GT6/
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 01-24-2011, 04:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ant_8u
yes that worked, i couldn't remember what your car looked like
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 01-24-2011, 04:47 PM
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Just need to fit the floormats and I'm done
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 01-24-2011, 05:18 PM
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Well I guess I still go for the PC for you. I still don't like it for me. I'm building a funnycar for a friend and he just got the fame back from PC. I voted against it. It's been back a week and they were just starting to assemble the car. .....Oh NO the rear end mount has to be changed. So out comes the grinder and sander to remove PC. I just finished that and @#$ dang we need more brackets for the new fuel system.....more grinding and sanding.

Oh well it's just a race car and not a show car. haha
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 01-24-2011, 05:47 PM
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Ouch, how are you planning to touch the frame in afterwards?

My frame is and will remain stock, so I don't have to worry about that
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 01-24-2011, 06:16 PM
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Rust-o-leum primer and black.....rattle cans.
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 01-24-2011, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bentwings
Rust-o-leum primer and black.....rattle cans.
Exactly the reason I did mine with black - no problem with touch up. I gouged a PC'd rear spring fitting the sedan body I had before the roadster and did a touch up with some Centari I had around - and can't find the repairs.

After powdercoat I had one bracket (for the drive shaft loop) that had to be added but did it with Gr8 bolts. I did have the bracket coated for, I believe $20 so it does match the chassis.

You do need to do a COMPLETE build before it goes off to be coated

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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 01-24-2011, 07:33 PM
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I've almost got it fully built - so I'm close, but not quite ready for coating yet

Need to replace a couple of chassis outriggers, and also front wings and wheel arches on the body

Once everything is welded and all the panel gaps are right I'll start the tear down
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 01-24-2011, 09:25 PM
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Take digital pictures of everything. every detail no matter how small. Don't trust memory. I took about 250 pictures as I took mine apart for painting. they don't mean anything to anybody else. I took macros of the electrical connections, the fuel system, the attaching points of the fenders and grill and hood. Even the door hinges and dash support. It really paid off when I assembled everything. I only had a few nuts and bolts left over and only had to replace a few with grade 8.
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 08-08-2011, 09:03 AM
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Update!

Chassis and running gear are about to go to powdercoating

(Yeah, it's been a while, I haven't had chance to even look at the car in months)

Before it goes off though, what final prep should I do?

ie, where the chassis has a box section that has been spot welded together should I leave it as it is, or should I run a bead of weld along it?

I know if I was painting it I should use seam sealer along it - So what should be done in the case of powdercoating?
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 08-08-2011, 10:42 AM
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No seam sealer until after.. I suppose you're going to have to deal with it being visible. It has to be blasted anyways.

If I had my PC setup back when I was doing all my chassis work, you're darn right I'd have done it all.

Now I look for little parts to do (You can make a 45 year old hood latch look better than brand new!).
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