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Old 06-12-2011, 09:48 PM
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Painted frame with chassis saver but not thick enough

Hey guys,
The frame of my 77' f150 4x4 was sandblasted last year and I brushed on chassis saver which I'm now kicking myself for. I'm sure it's a great product but I didn't put on enough coats and I have some spots that were surface rusting through.

On a side note I just recently sprayed paint for the first time on the engine towers and bellhousing. They were sandblasted and I used SPI Epoxy with martin senour jet black single stage over it. To say the least I was blown away. Having never mixed paint or sprayed through a spray gun before I'm amazed how well it turned out, between the epoxy and the single stage it feels a lot more durable and looks a hell of a lot better than any rattle can I've ever used. I'm hooked on the epoxy and can't wait to try SPI's other products, Thanks Barry for a great product.

Now to get back on topic I took care of the surface rust on the frame before it could become more than just a few specks. Now I'm wanting to scuff or sand the frame and use the SPI Epoxy / Martin Senour SS combo or put enough coats of chassis saver for good coverage.

Obviously I'm not going to remove all the chassis saver but would it be alright to sand what's there down and then use the SPI Epoxy over it? I sanded a two foot section with 80 grit and got lots of shiny metal with the chassis saver still in the pits.

--------------------------------------

Sorry for the long post but I could really use some advice on this guys. This is my first restoration and I'm on a tight budget but I love the SPI and the single stage was impressive for what it is, I'm trying to figure out if coating with more chassis saver would be fine or if the epoxy/ss would be better and if the epoxy would even stick to 80 gritted chassis saver. Recoating with chassis saver and doing at least 2-3 coats would be easiest and cheapest I'm just wondering how it will hold up, and stick.

Thanks in advance
-Justin

Pre-Restoration


How the chassis saver looks, cant see all the spots where I barely covered the metal


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Old 06-15-2011, 02:05 PM
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Nobody has any advice?
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Old 06-16-2011, 12:10 AM
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well, I'll weigh in because I've used chassis saver as well as bill hirsch miracle paint, and they're both complete shi1t because I've got rust coming back through in multiple pieces on a Mustang that's been under a roof the last two years being restored (so no elements here). I suspect my problems too have been due to too thin of coats, but it's very difficult to get that stuff on thick enough.

Hardly anybody here (read: the pro's, of which I'm not one) has any thing good to say about these types of paint over rust paints.

The SPI epoxy on the other hand...

Give Barry a call at SPI's tech line, tell him your dilemma, and see what he recommends.
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Old 06-16-2011, 04:16 AM
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I really try to stay away from any post on here that has SPI anywhere in it, as I think it is unethical for me to answer.

But this one I will answer as an epoxy question in general and if Dinger, thinks I crossed the line he can edit or delete.

If you are coating a frame for the factory look as well as chemical and stone chip protection, coat with 2-3 coats of epoxy and leave it in epoxy.
There is no SS paint you can buy in this market that will be as chemical resistant and stone chip resistant as MOST (not all) cured epoxies.

Now if you need a shinny frame like on a 32 then coat the epoxy with paint of your choice.

What I would do here, is use a RED scuff pad and hit the frame real quick and then shoot 2-3 coats of epoxy, weakest point will be the corrosion protection but hopefully that will work out if frame was cleaned good before the other stuff was applied.
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Old 06-16-2011, 05:08 AM
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The frame was completely sandblasted before hand. I even ground the rivets off for the leaf spring brackets to get behind them too.

Thanks for the replies and advice guys
-Justin
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Old 06-16-2011, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarryK
I really try to stay away from any post on here that has SPI anywhere in it, as I think it is unethical for me to answer.

But this one I will answer as an epoxy question in general and if Dinger, thinks I crossed the line he can edit or delete.


Now if you need a shinny frame like on a 32 then coat the epoxy with paint of your choice.
The only thing that I see that would need editing is your spelling of shiny...

We are fortunate on this website to have some business owners that can give answers to problems "straight from the horses mouth", if you will. The fact that there are a lot of members using your product speaks well for the product, there is no self promotion involved and you take the time to care for these people that have questions speaks volumes for your business. I would encourage any business owner to follow your example, it can only benefit this website and our members. Dan
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Old 06-17-2011, 05:11 AM
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Barry ,IMO,You should mispel more words...just a few ...then everyone would know your one of us and not some desk jockey/golfer....
A big wire cup on a side grinder might work well on cleaning out those pits.
Personally ,I'd get that rust paint off there before using the epoxy....
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Old 06-17-2011, 05:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
Barry ,IMO,You should misspell more words...just a few ...then everyone would know your one of us and not some desk jockey/golfer....
A big wire cup on a side grinder might work well on cleaning out those pits.
Personally ,I'd get that rust paint off there before using the epoxy....

LOL, trust me, I don't need to TRY to misspell words.
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Old 06-17-2011, 07:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
Barry ,IMO,You should mispel more words...just a few ...then everyone would know your one of us and not some desk jockey/golfer....
A big wire cup on a side grinder might work well on cleaning out those pits.
Personally ,I'd get that rust paint off there before using the epoxy....
I am tempted to re sandblast it but I'm not sure how easily this stuff will come off. Also out of curiousity how glossy is the black spi epoxy? Is it about the same gloss as the gray?

Thanks
-Justin
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Old 06-17-2011, 07:45 AM
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It will come off very easy, either by blasting or washing off with thinner.

If truck is just a driver the epoxy will compensate for the weakness with two to three good coats.

If a rock climber or off roader, I would blast it off, easier to do now then later.

Gloss is same if sprayed the same.
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