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Painted Pinstripe Removal

9K views 15 replies 9 participants last post by  eloc431962 
#1 ·
Hello Folks,

My 2001 Ford F150 Lightning pickup has a painted pinstripe (applied by the previous owner) applied all along the top of the body line. Over the years it has become faded, and in some spots it has completely disappeared.

The original red paint is otherwise in excellent condition.

I would like to remove the remainder of the pinstripe - is this something I could do, perhaps with careful use of polishing/rubbing compound?

Thanks in advance! :thumbup:

Cheers, Ken in SSF
 
#2 ·
You need to "cut" it off the top of the paint. If you polish it off you will also be polishing the surrounding paint the same amount, correct? That would NOT be good as you would go thru the clear about the same time you go thru the stripe. The stripe may cut faster being it is likely not a 2K cured paint as the clear is, but the clear would most certainly be cut as you are cutting the stripe.

So to remove the stripe your first plan of attack would be simply rubbing it off with a rag with lacquer thinning on it. The stripe is often simply enamel striping paint that will wash off with lacquer thinner. After washing it off you then polish the clear to remove any texture difference or remnants of the stripe.

Another minimally abrasive method may be a clay bar. I have been amazed at what this very interesting tool will remove. You can pick one up at a paint store, Magic clay is a brand name but there are others.

Clay Magic Clay Bar - Blue Fine Grade, CM-2200 - Detailing.com

This clay wipes off anything "stuck" on a smooth surface. I have used it to get direct overspray off a plexi-glass window with no damage what so ever to the window, how about cured urethane primer overspray off a car, again, totally removed it with no damage what so ever. No cutting, no wearing of the clear like polish or compound would do, it really works well and may take it off, I have never tried it with a painted on pin stripe but I wouldn't be surprised if it took it right off.

The next step after those fail would be to sand it off. Using very fine color sanding paper like 1500 with a block, a narrow block and carefully sand only the stripe so the surrounding clear isn't sanded. You can do this with a block because the block is going to hit only what is highest, unlike the polish compound that is cutting everything, that is the difference and a BIG difference. If you are careful you can cut just the stripe off with very little effect to the surrounding area and then polish the clear back to a shine.

Brian
 
#3 ·
Here is the block that I made years ago for such work, I got a regular old 3M block and cut it with a hack saw. This little one inch wide block works great for stuff like that stripe.

Brian

 
#4 ·
Brian, you post excellent advice on that stripe removal. I, as a Ford pickup owner, have to caution the OP that whatever he does, be well aware that the original paint/CC is very thin as I've had to 'attack' the tail gate on mine (probably the same on all late vehicles now days). It almost might be a better choice to either have that stripe repainted (over coated with new) or use tape stripes.

Dave W
 
#6 ·
You are right Dave as removing those stripes is a VERY tricky project, even for a pro who has done it a bunch of times, it's the open heart surgery of paint work.


Brian
 
#7 ·
Be carefull with this, easy off will take enamel and lacquer down to bare metal! I just used some to break down 50 years of grease on my 55 Chevys engine compartment. After setting overnight I pressure washed, It did a great job on the grease, so good the frame is now bare metal! Probably the modern paints are more resistant to it.
 
#8 ·
Thanks Larry, I forgot to respond to that, yes Easy off is for cleaning ovens not for delicately removing pin stripes on your beautiful truck. It may have a place in the garage but this isn't it!:nono:

Brian
 
#10 ·
We aren't talking about knowing everything, we are talking about the odds, we are talking about taking a chance that could get you into real trouble. It may very well work but this isn't the place to suggest it.

But you know what, I am going to do some experiments with it and see. How do you like that?

Brian
 
#14 ·
Sodium Hydroxide used to be the active ingredient in dip tanks.
It is a common ingredient in oven cleaners.
Also called Caustic Soda.

fyi:

It is a quite dangerous chemical in its pure form, normally stored as a flake.
Interesting fact, as long as your skin is dry the flake can lay on your skin with no ill effects. Don't sweat or the burn will start in a hurry. In pure liquid form it is very dangerous and most industries try and avoid it if possible.
When mixing flakes with water, put the full amount of water in a container, then slowly add the flakes. Never the other way around.
 
#15 ·
try wetsanding with swome 1500 - 2000 sandpaper... go in circles... use ALOT OF WATER... maybe a sponge to help keep it from being too abrasive.. u can also add some liquid soap to keep it from clogging the sandpaper... every so often dry off what you are wetsanding with a towel or any kind of drying utencil to see how far you've sanded down... painter of 12 years
 
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