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Old 02-27-2011, 11:53 AM
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Painters HELP

Im new to painting cars but i want to learn how to paint like some of the guys on here. The car im painting is a 1969 lemans conv. with the stock OE color warwick blue its a metallic base paint. I sprayed the base and it looked great no runs fish eyes crows feet nothing but when i sprayed the clear most of the car was good but thin i came out the next day and i found that 3 spots did the crows feet on me now im still fighting the car tooth and nail and i cant get it to stop crow footing on me i fix one spot and thin another. Im using a set of tcp paint guns spraying out of a 2.0 gun i clean the gun after every use what is doing this and how can i fix it and be done with the paint befor i take a hammer to this car.

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Old 02-27-2011, 01:27 PM
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Your problem is simple. Spraying with a 2.0 gun is applying product too wet causing the reducer to bite and create the crow’s feet you’re experiencing. Base coat should be applied so it appears sort of a satin sheen then allowed to flash off and appear flat before any subsequent coats or clear is applied. If you apply clear before the base has flashed off properly your sealing in the wet basecoat and forcing the reducer to bite making the crow’s feet reappear. You really should invest in 1.4 gun.
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Old 02-27-2011, 07:13 PM
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i have a 2.0 1.5 1.0 gun i let the car sit over night befor i sprayed the clear everything is how you said sprayed the base with the 1.5 50/50 mix it was flat dry about 70* outside at night sprayed clear 2.0 4/1 mix most was good thin crows foot are you saying i should spray the clear with the 1.5 gun the mix is kinda thick but maybe
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Old 02-27-2011, 07:39 PM
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Normally you wouldn’t have the problems you’re encountering. The problem is the 2.0 tip you’re using. I don’t think anyone here in this forum uses a 2.0 tip for anything but a urethane primer gun. Most here spray with a 1.4 tip. Some spray their clear with 1.5 tip. Switch to the 1.5 tip for the clear.
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Old 02-27-2011, 08:40 PM
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I use a 1.3 tip for production clear.
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Old 02-27-2011, 08:55 PM
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Did you strip the car to bare metal? I have never seen a paint job crows foot because to much clear was applied. (Of course I've never cleared with a 2.0) It sound to me like you painted over crows feet that were in the old finish. You don't notice them until you clear, because the clear won't bridge them. Its the same thing as painting over cracks in fiberglass.

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Old 02-27-2011, 09:04 PM
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I used to have those problems from either loading the paint on too heavy... using too slow of a reducer.... not waiting long enough between coats... or using some brands of reducer that are way too aggressive.

Now I do medium coats... allow a little extra dry time between coats... and use cheaper general-use reducers, which tend to be less aggressive (and save $$$).

Performance has be reliable and predictable.
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Old 02-27-2011, 09:28 PM
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i didnt take the car to bare metal i did about 1/3 of it bare to fix alot of bad work someone did befor me 3 coats of primer 2 coats of sealer 2 coats paint and 1 coat of clear becouse it started going crazy on me. I see alot of you guys lay down the clear like glass thats what i want to do i know alot of you guys are like just go take a class to learn people i live in a place that has no car culture they think custom is a decal and spinner hub caps so if you guys dont have a problem download all your paint tip tricks and how to into
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Old 02-28-2011, 05:24 AM
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[QUOTE=Underground]Did you strip the car to bare metal? I have never seen a paint job crows foot because to much clear was applied. (Of course I've never cleared with a 2.0) It sound to me like you painted over crows feet that were in the old finish. You don't notice them until you clear, because the clear won't bridge them. Its the same thing as painting over cracks in fiberglass.[/QUOTE

I agree a 100%, unless something in the urethane system was miss-activated, a urethane really cannot chicken or crows feet.
BWK
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Now I do medium coats... allow a little extra dry time between coats... and use cheaper general-use reducers, which tend to be less aggressive (and save $$$).
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This has to be some of the worst advice I have ever seen on here, short of a few years ago when a troll said use toilet bowl cleaner.
BWK
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Old 02-28-2011, 06:27 AM
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use cheap paint if you must but never use an inferior cheap reducer. they are the last thing to have in a shop. ok for car lot work but not in quality work.
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Old 02-28-2011, 02:53 PM
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i using a $22 gallon of thinner that the guy at the paint shop told me to use and a $17 thinner for cleaning the guns all the paint is from a body shop paint suppliers
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Old 03-03-2011, 01:20 PM
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Check to see if the "thinner" you're using in the paint is a thinner or reducer and is of the same checmical family. The wrong reducer will cause all kinds of ugly problems.
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Old 03-03-2011, 03:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyclopsblown34
Check to see if the "thinner" you're using in the paint is a thinner or reducer and is of the same checmical family. The wrong reducer will cause all kinds of ugly problems.
It will affect ALL of the paint, not just in a few spots.
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Old 03-03-2011, 03:19 PM
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screw around with reducers and you'll learn how to make jelly.........
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Old 03-03-2011, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by binkster
BRING YOUR CAR TO *********************. *****************************THEY WILL DO A PROFESSIONAL JOB.WHY WASTE ANY MORE OF YOUR TIME AND EXPENSIVE MATERIALS. WE CHARGE FOR WHAT YOU GET,A SHOW JOB

Wow Bob, that's great. Does SPAM come with the paint job?

Last edited by poncho62; 03-08-2011 at 04:04 AM. Reason: Advertising. Please see: commercial posting guidelines.
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