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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2004, 01:25 PM
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has anyone else had a good/bad experience with the u-coat-it company/product??
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 03-04-2004, 01:08 PM
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water based epoxies are usually applied thinner 4-6mils wet and are just used as a coating. 100% solids are applied at 18-20mils wet and dry to average 16mils. They are used to self level and fill spalling and minor damage in the concrete. Water based are rolled out like paint and solids are poured, squeeged and back rolled to achieve desired finish. Solids are not as flexible as latex (water) based, and usually are not as chemical resistant. They also may have compression issues. As Kevin45 pointed out U Coat It offers a chemically resistant water based epoxy that will perform great in a home garage. It is actually the same product used in auto dealership showrooms and service areas coast to coast. If you use the high gloss system it builds an addition 4mil average of a CRU, or chemical resistant urethane. This top coat is very durable and resists all automotive fluids- gas, oil, brake fluid, trans fluid, coolant, even lacquer thinners and acetones. Hope this helps- and yes, I work with epoxies in market research with U Coat It. I hope this post is not considered "spam", as other members mention specific products by name, and I just want to answer questions regarding epoxy floor coatings. Thanks for your time.
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Old 03-04-2004, 10:43 PM
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so kid..what, if any are the negatives to the U-Coat-It product. I need to cover almost 1000 sq. ft. of concrete and it's gonna cost me close to $1000.00 with the gloss....I need to know as much as possible before I write the check.....
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Old 03-07-2004, 05:19 PM
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Kidcandy - Would never consider this spam and want to thank you for all the information.
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Old 03-08-2004, 10:33 AM
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This thread gets Chucky's ***** 5 Star Rating.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 03-09-2004, 12:44 PM
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reply to 61wagonair

For some people the draw back is the price, with kits starting at $249.95, (which is only $.44 cents a sq/ft) for others the most common is that U Coat is not a high build product, so it will not fill cracks or bridge gaps. A two part epoxy patch is used for these purposes, or a 100% solids epoxy material is available for resurfacing needs. U Coat is a coating and will mirror the surface of the floor, however it will seal the floor to create a chemically resistant, easily cleanable seamless flooring. You mentioned interest in using the U Gloss A/F product, and this is a top coat of a CRU, a chemical resistant urethane. This product will double the thickness of the standard coating, providing increased durability against wear and chemical attack. It is the only solvent based part of the U Coat system and requires proper ventilation and respiration during application. You can print the manual which contains the MSDS for the product online at www.ucoatit.com and compare the chemical resistant properties of this product versus the others and I'm sure you will see a difference. Call the respective companies and ask detailed questions particular to your situation.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 03-09-2004, 01:18 PM
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Question

Another question kidcaddy - If I decide to go with stain this time around and I don't like it, can I apply ucoatit over the stained concrete? I'm thinking - No, but wanted to hear what you had to say.

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Old 03-10-2004, 09:35 AM
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It would depend upon the stain. If the stain is water based and just used to color the concrete, it is likely you will be able to apply U Coat over the surface. If it is a solvent based stain used to color and protect the surface and to repel water it would also repel U Coat. Do a water test, if the water beads up and is repelled, you must remove the coating, if it sheets and is absorbed, you can apply the product. The stained surface can be prepared chemically by using a stripping agent, or mechanically by sanding the surface w/ a 40 grit sanding disk on a floor buffer. The floor must be able to absorb water over the entire surface. The U Coat epoxy is designed to be applied onto a damp concrete floor, so the area must cleaned, degreased and neutralized just prior to application.
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Old 03-13-2007, 05:44 AM
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The forum has liked...

The good forum, has found answers to many questions. Thanks:-))
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 03-13-2007, 06:40 AM
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i used the epoxy two stage and love it. oil wipes right up, and very easy to keep clean. it came with a cleaning compound, to ensure floor is good and clean, and i haven't had any trouble with chipping.
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 03-15-2007, 10:13 AM
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i used the griot's garage paint for my garage, and i love the stuff. i did not add anything for anti-slip, and i have almost eaten my shyte walking around in there with my flip-flops and stepping in a water puddle. the stuff is real nice, two week old oil stains wipe right up with no cleaners at all, just a dry shop towel. i have managed to chip it some by dropping heavy pieces of steel on it, but it chipped the concrete also, so i don't think anything would help there. my slab is 53 years old when i painted it, been on there for 9 months. i will use it again when i buy my next house.

http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog....000&L2=L2_3080

and mine looks just like the picture. i followed the instructions to the "t" and mine turned out great! i used two cans for two coats on a two car garage.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 03-15-2007, 11:00 AM
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I'm looking at the Griot's Garage stuff, but may just use regular old "porch/floor paint" for the office area. The main problem I have is the finish isn't as smooth as I like. I scheduled the $%#$ concrete company to deliver at 2 pm last spring, and they rolled in with the first truck at 4!! Two and a half trucks later it's 6:30 or so and I'm still finishing! Didn't get as smooth a finish as I'd like. Aren't there concrete grinder/buffers one can rent?? I'd like to smooth it up a bit before painting, even though I know it's gonna be a mess. Better to do it before I get good moved in though. Or maybe I should just leave it alone (it's not terrible -- my creeper still rolls over with just a little effort) for the "non-skid" qualities -- the paint will still make it easier to clean, brighter, and less dusty. Opinions??
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 03-15-2007, 11:08 AM
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how rough is it? if you put the paint on thick, it should smooth it out pretty good. i had one rough spot where it looks like somebody spilled something that ate away at the concrete for a while.

it is a rough spot, but still sweeps clean (but not quite as nicely as the smooth high-gloss finish the rest of the floor has). actually, now that i think about it, if your floor is like that spot, it may make the floor have a non-slip finish, without having to add anything.
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 03-15-2007, 01:46 PM
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Griots -

UCoat-it -
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 03-15-2007, 02:11 PM
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The floor is finished a little rougher than most driveways. It's not broomed, just bull floated. Has a few ridges, but the creeper works so I think I will just leave it. It's more than any coating would fill in, though it might make it 25-30% smoother. It's hard to work concrete in the dark!! I've done sidewalks and driveways that were smoother...

I might just use floor paint (oil based enamel) and let it wear off in spots. This is a working shop, not a pretty garage. Even if the paint wears off at places there will still be more on the floor to reflect light. Will cost me about $750 using Griot's, can get an epoxy floor paint at Lowe's for $25/gallon and spend $300. Yeah, I know, $750 once is better than $300 2-3 times... but I can touch up a lot for $450.... and those prices were just for the paint itself. I'm going to have a time constraint also. Just can't win sometimes!!
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