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Old 06-21-2004, 01:55 AM
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Painting a 1988 work truck

I just spent a half hour reading about bc/cc vs. Acrylic enamel, 1 step, and if this was a nicer vehical I would take the time to do a 2 part job. I have already purchased Acrylic enamel and as long as the truck looks better then it does now, I don't care how long the paint lasts. So here are some questions I hope someone could help me with. The truck has lots of little dents all along both sides of the bed, 2 matching dents on left and right corner of bed (jackknifing the trailer)and a couple of dings in the doors. The paint has pealed on the roof and along the lower half of both doors, the hood is fine, Ha! I have a gallon of primer filler, a gallon of met silver, and 1/2 gal met gray- the lower trim paint+reducers+hardeners.

I would like to know, when I rough up the original paint so that the primer will adhere, what git paper of (da) sandpaper should I use to minimize scratches so I can prime and paint. Also what grit sandpaper should I work up from, and in what stages for the bondo, or glazing putty areas. I have never used glazing putty would this work for me and is it necessary to take all dents and dings down to bare metal? I am going to try to do a decent job but as quick as possible. Also should I buy clear coat for an extra 75 - 100 bucks of product, and spend the extra time?
Thanks for your help!!
This a Landscaping truck it comes home with new dings all the time.

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Old 06-21-2004, 07:48 AM's Avatar Moderator
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36 or 80 grit for bondo prep, clear down to whit metal. 80 grit for bondo rough shaping. 120 grit for bondo fine tuning and pre-primer surface prep. Use blocks and boards for everything after rough bondo shaping to prevent wavy surfaces from creeping in. Sand the existing paint well w/ the 120 but remove as little as possible - existing factory paint/metal bond is as good aro better than you can get after-market. After priming, block sand w/ 320 in prep for sealer/final coats. I like dry sanding everything except color wet sanding before polishing. Cuts way down on the danger of contamination with water or other liquids. My favorite paper so far is Eastwood's pre-pasted rolls of wet/dry paper they sell for their line of sanding blocks. Lasts and stays cleaner than anything else I have come across. Highly recommend you go ahead and pay the extra $$ for the hardener in the acrylic. Well worth the money.
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Old 06-21-2004, 08:29 AM
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If the paint is peeling, as most of those trucks did esp. the grays and silvers, Then all of that color must be removed. The new paint will not stop it from peeling after it is re coated.

By all means use a hardener additive.

If you don't make mistakes. your not doing anything.

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