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Old 04-15-2005, 12:13 PM
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Painting '66 Olds, New guy questions.

Hey I have 4 months off and I have decided to strip off the flaking 'sea foam green' crap laqeur paint on my F85. I have done a little body work before but I still have no idea what I'm doing. I have read the threads but can't seem to compile a sure fire process to stripping painting a car. Heres what I've got so far, for at home paint job:

1)Pull off all chrome/extras, and mask off glass
2)Pull off quarter panels and strip with paint stripper, strip rest of body with paint stripper
3)Sand off rust, use naval jelly
4)Wipe with degreaser, sand with 80 grit?
5)Bondo on bare metal, sand bondo smoothe
6)Prime bare metal with what? Epoxy primer?
7)Spray primer filler
8)Sand primer filler with 200 then 320 then 500 then 1000 grit
9)Spray 2k primer
10)Spray base coat color, enamel?Urethane? (a few coats)
11)Assemble body panels, give entire car a few coats of base color so as to not have different shaded panels
12)Let dry for a few days, since I have no means of baking the paint.
13)Buff final paint with 4000 grit for smoothe finish?
14)Wait month before taking to carwash.

Does this seem correct? Can anyone fill in what i'm missing? Or correct any flaws in the plan? As of now this is how i'm going about it, and i'd hate to waste all that time and money for nothing. Any help appreciated
Thanks,
Mark

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Last edited by flipp121; 04-15-2005 at 12:21 PM.
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Old 04-15-2005, 04:48 PM
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2) pull off quarter panels. MAN you must have super gorilla strength . sorry i had to. i'm sure you meant fenders (front).
5) alot of guys like to use epoxy before filler work. you will have to read through some of the threads and make up your own mind on that one.
8) if you are going to seal the car 320 is fine. if you want to shoot base right over primer, 500 or 600 is ok depending on the color.if you are using a light , highly metallic color such as gold , silver , light blue etc. you would want to finish with around 800 to avoid seeing sand scratches in your base.
9) you sprayed your primer in step 7.
11) if i were you , i would edge all your parts / jambs, and paint all the panels ( doors , fenders , hood , deck lid ) on the car. depending on your experience, this is probably the easiest way for a novice. you won't scratch everything up putting it back together.
13) depending how crazy you want to get with the finish , i think 2000 should be enough for your final sand.
this is just how i would go about doing it , i'm sure others will give their advice and you will have to decide for yourself in the end. good luck.
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Old 04-17-2005, 02:13 AM
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Thanks a lot for your help nick, im printing this stuff off for when I finally get to do it in a couple weeks here. What do you mean by edging?
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Old 04-17-2005, 06:34 AM
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edging is painting the edges of the parts ( inside edges of the fenders , underside of the hood , decklid , door jambs etc ). these are the areas that you can't get at when the parts are on the car.
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Old 04-26-2005, 02:27 PM
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So if I leave the parts on the car and paint it I wont be able to paint the inside of the panels and stuff? Isn't that what maaco does? sounds like a cheap way to paint it?
But i remember trying to get the fenders back on my buddys trans am was a royal pain in the butt and we scratched the hell out of them...
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Old 04-26-2005, 03:30 PM
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you can do it that way , but i think it leaves less room for error if you have it jambed already. this way you don't have to open and close panels while your painting. and if you're a rookie it's real easy to mess up a wet paint job doing it that way.
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Old 04-26-2005, 03:40 PM
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Ohhh so you're saying paint the 'jam' stuff with it off then put them back on and paint the whole thing? Wouldnt that leave like a seam in the paint where the 2 different coats meet?
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Old 04-26-2005, 04:46 PM
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yes , that's what i'm suggesting. if you do it that way it's going to leave somewhat of a paint line. depending on your experience taping , you can limit the extent of the line. the crudest way to tape it would be to just make a "hard" tape line in the jamb and be done with it. but you can also try to make a "soft" tape line by taking 2" tape and rolling it back in the jamb so that the tape edge isn't so defined. you can also buy a foam type tape that is made specifically for this task called Door Aperature Refinish Tape or DART. but if you are only going to paint one car , you will have alot left over. as far as i know it only comes in a big box and its kinda pricy. i don't know how crazy you want to get with this car , but a little tape line in the jamb isn't that big of a deal IMO. no one will notice it unless the doors are open , and depending on how good you tape it they may not notice it then either. now if you're going for a show car , then that's another story.
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Old 04-26-2005, 04:58 PM
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Hey thanks again for your advice, it's good to have help with this, I don't care how it looks cosmetically it would just worry me that the paint would not mesh together at the tape line and start to flake/rust, I only really get one shot at this and I want it to last.
Thanks
Mark
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Old 04-26-2005, 05:56 PM
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you can scuff the jamb a little farther back than you plan on putting your tape line , then after it's all painted and unmasked , just hit the remaining scuff marks ( that were under the tape) alittle by hand with some compound to knock down your scuffing scratches. or if you decide to just make a "hard" paint line , you can tape it up and scuff real good up to the tape line. either way i don't think you'll have a problem with the paint peeling in your jambs , just remember that anywhere you want the paint to stick , it has to be scuffed up or the paint will peel.
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Old 04-26-2005, 05:59 PM
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So paint it then scuff up the line with sand paper? then spray it again? Yea it was painted in the 80's and the paint is just flaking off like hell now.
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Old 04-26-2005, 07:16 PM
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i assume you're stripping all that bad paint off , right? after you have the jambs all painted , i would use a gray scotch brite pad to do your scuffing ( you can get these at any automotive paint store). the scuff pads work alittle better than sandpaper to prep existing finishes IMO. i think you're getting what i'm saying but let me give you an example. let's use your hood and fender. ok ,you have the gap between the hood and fender (with the hood closed). now open the hood , you want to put your tape about 1/4" give or take , inside the jamb of the fender.now you want to do the same with the adjacent panel , which in this case is the hood. now you want to stick paper to the tape and fold it towards the engine compartment. this paper will catch any overspray that gets past your tape. once this is done , you will be able to close the hood and finish masking the front and back edge of the hood. now the fender and hood jamb will be masked. ofcourse you would have to do the other side of the hood as well before you close the hood. you can do this with the rest of your jambs as well. i hope this makes sence.
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Old 04-26-2005, 07:48 PM
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Yup it all makes sense. I have to mask off the area i dont want to paint, and then paint the areas that you couldnt normally get at, with the parts on the car. And yes im gonna strip the paint off, thinking about using the chemical stripper as it seems the only easy way to do it. Do i want to scuff the jams that i painted? to allow the paint that isnt on the jams to attatch to the paint in the jams? hehe i think thats what you are saying.
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Old 04-27-2005, 03:48 PM
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yes ,but you only want to scuff the 1/4" or so that will be exposed after the jamb is masked. but like i said earlier , it's ok if you scuff a little more , you will just have to hit it with some buffing compound later on to knock down the scuffing scratches. the good thing with scuffing just a hair more than where the tape line will be, is that you know for sure that it's scuffed all the way up to the line and you won't have any peeling. but if you're real careful with your scuffing , you could probably just hit the edge with a scuff pad after it's masked. as long as you do a good job with your scuffing , you shouldn't have a peeling problem.
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