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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 04-16-2010, 08:07 AM
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I don't like to have a bunch of stuff attached to my gun so I have the regulator at the compressor then just a small pressure gage at the gun. Usually I have a 50 foot hose and I adjust the regulator at the compressor to read the pressure at the gun with the trigger pulled.

Vince

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 04-16-2010, 08:14 AM
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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
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Originally Posted by 302 Z28
What really had me worried was the four piece hood sides with louvers. I just could see myself sanding and buffing every single louver . Vince
You young punks! I remember when I had to walk to paint booth both ways up hill in the snow with no shoes!

No really, try lacquer!!! I worked at a full on resto shop back in the late seventies. I sprayed MANY early V8 Ford hoods five coats, sand it flat, five coats, sand it flat, five coats, sand it flat and buff to perfection. And this was BEFORE we had "ultra fine" (800) paper or anything finer than 600!!!!

I would sand out EVERY SINGLE SPECK of texture every time! I was an anal nutjob and would sand out EVERY SINGLE SPECK! We are talking around those louvers, in the door jambs, EVERYWHERE! I am not talking sanding out the large stuff, or sanding out the flat areas, I mean EVERY SINGLE SPECK of texture on the entire painted area!

I would have no fingerprints from sanding.

Oh, and by the way, I LOVED doing that work! I wish I could do it now. I loved doing that every day.

Brian
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Old 04-16-2010, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by MARTINSR
You young punks! I remember when I had to walk to paint booth both ways up hill in the snow with no shoes!


Brian
Brian, I'm probably older than you

Vince
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Old 04-16-2010, 08:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94blackcamaroz2
Vince,


With my compress and gun setup, is there any particular psi range i should be in? for instance how do you know what to set the regulator at? both the compressor regulator and the air gun regulator?

Lets say for instance i set my compressor regulator at 70psi. Then do i set the gun say at 45 psi with the trigger pulled?
You need 30-40 psi AT THE GUN according to the guns specs. On the higher side the material gets "broken up" more.

Brian
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Old 04-16-2010, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by 302 Z28
Brian, I'm probably older than you

Vince
LOLOLOL, I don't know. But I feel old when we are talking about these urethanes. I remember painting at that very resto shop a 48 Chevy Woody with Deltron being demoed by the DITZLER rep (not PPG). I will never forget the smell of it and how it smelled when sanded after fully curing! Odd stuff, still to this day that has got to be the mose odd smelling auto paint of all time.

Yeah, I'm 51, how old are you?

Brian
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Old 04-16-2010, 08:34 AM
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LOLOLOL,

Yeah, I'm 51, how old are you?

Brian
60 as of March

Vince
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Old 04-16-2010, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by MARTINSR
You have what starts out as great "tools", the compressor, and the gun, you are ready to rock. The inline filter is probably robbing CFM and the hose, bad news, very bad news. First off, how big a diameter is it? You need 3/8" MINUMUM. But think about this, run 30-40" of 3/4" pipe to only 20" of hose, with the water trap at the end of that pipe. Your rubber hose doesn't let the air cool down, the water trap can't remove the moisture. Where is your water trap? If it is at the compressor, it is almost doing nothing because the air is so hot.

Look into getting that air piped, it is a BIG difference over running that hose.

Brian

You know what, I never even though about the piping. What you have said makes perfect sense. My water trap is basically connected to the air compressor, well connected to an 8" 1/2" pipe that connects to the compressor. Even using everyday tools their is almost never any water in the separation filter. Currently I use a 3/8" hose, which I thought is standard?

So you are suggesting a 3/4" steel pipe say 20', then the water separater/filter, then 20-30' of maybe 1/2" air hose? Should I also continue using the water separater filter that is connect right at the gun?
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Old 04-16-2010, 09:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR
You need 30-40 psi AT THE GUN according to the guns specs. On the higher side the material gets "broken up" more.

Brian
Just to completely make sure I understand this "at the gun" pressure. To be honest, i dont even know what I'm asking this, but I just want to be sure.

From what little I know, there are 3 pressures, at the compressor, at the gun, and at the tip. Since I dont have the tool to check the tip pressure, I can only see the pressure at the compressor and at the gun.

So when I set the regulator at the gun at 40 psi, is that considered at the gun pressure?

Or is "at the gun" pressure when you pull the trigger and the gun regulator reads 40 psi?
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 04-16-2010, 11:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94blackcamaroz2
Or is "at the gun" pressure when you pull the trigger and the gun regulator reads 40 psi?
Yep, that is it. And theoretically when you have the proper CFM and the PSI at the gun is set to specs the cap pressure IS at the spec level as well (usually 10lbs for HVLP guns).

Brian
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 04-16-2010, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94blackcamaroz2
You know what, I never even though about the piping. What you have said makes perfect sense. My water trap is basically connected to the air compressor, well connected to an 8" 1/2" pipe that connects to the compressor. Even using everyday tools their is almost never any water in the separation filter. Currently I use a 3/8" hose, which I thought is standard?

So you are suggesting a 3/4" steel pipe say 20', then the water separater/filter, then 20-30' of maybe 1/2" air hose? Should I also continue using the water separater filter that is connect right at the gun?
Yep, Yep and Yep. Your water separatoer is doing NOTHING, the air hasn't cooled down.


Brian
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