painting with base......rough finish?
hi i painted fopr my first time, a trunk, a hood and a front bumber on my 2000 mustang gt
i was not aware of the "little" things involved when painting so here is what i did
it was a nice day out, approx 65 degrees, i had a booth made in my garage (temporary one) i sprayed the base (DUPONT) with a HVLP gun, i KNOW i put it on to heavy, i did about 5 coats. The problem is the tempeture dropped the following 5 days in a row, so the drying has been a bit of a problem. But now that the paint is dry, the paint job looks a little rough. The paint appears to be very even, but rough, it dosnt look like orange peel, it looks like the paint has little tiny microdscopic splatters (convex, no concave like orange peel)all over the parts, but very consistantly (not just in some spots, the whole area) now i have procedded to wet sand the base very lightly with 1500 wet. WHen water is over the area it looks really smooth (hoping it looks like that with clear)
am i doing this right? what is the rough spots casued from? paint being on to heavy? or the tempature? combination of both?
its been 5 days since doing the base, waiting for the weather to warm up for the clear?
any thoughts on this or advice, thank you very much
i did a search, and came across the HUGE thread, stating don not sand base!
well im even more confused then before i read tha thread. can someone please just tell me what i should do next
If you sand the BC, then reshoot another coat on top of that, then clear. I try to clear within a 24 hour period. Also what temp of Basemaker did you use. DuPont has Low temp, mid temp, and Hi temp. Using one of these will vary your dry times of the basecoat. I shot some panels the other day, used a mid temp, as the garage was around 72, then cleared an hour or so later. The panels turned out great. A hi temp basemaker slows your dry times and a Low temp basemaker hastens up your dry times.
If you have a lot of texture, and you sand it flat, you "could" have an adhesion problem. But if you sand the tops of the texture down but NOT flat you are probably going to be ok, at least that is all you can do at this point.
Remember, if you cut and buff the clear you can flatten out some of that texture. Of course if it is real bad you will see it thru the clear, but it will be flat and shiney.
It is real hard to "see" what kind of texture you are talking about. Your "very rough" could be my "little rough and doable".
thanks guys for the replies, this is a great site that i wish i found before spraying :)
the roughness isnt as bad as i thought, it actually looks pretty good, but what i have alreay done was WET sanded with 1500, and im pretty satisfied with it, but now im ready to clear which is what i wanted to do...
so should I....
1) just spray the clear over the 1500 wet sanded base
2) reapply a coat of base, then spray the clear
3) sand with 600wet, then spray clear
sand with 600wet, spray base, then spray clear
sorry for all the questions im obviously a NEWB to this
You need to follow MartinSR instructions. Shoot a coat of base and then clear it.
painting with base......rough finish?
I donot have pics to show you, but here is what all my research turned up since I was in same situation as your self.
1. do NOT sand base.
2. Any light over spary can be covered with clear.
3. When painting the base keep a degrease rag and a tack cloth handy at all times. as you shoot take time to stop and retack un coated area before painting. You may put extra base coat on if no over spray I put one coat of base and sanded it with 800 then put second coat prior to clear as manufacturer and paint supply place and body shop recommended.
4. Suspend a box fan above car to blow over spray down and away helped me out tons. Use plastic to surround car leaving enough room to move and kep contaminants out.
5. Once the base is laid down use tack cloth to take off as much over spray particles as possible. I used a sheet of 2000 grit NO pressure and gently rubbed over the base where it felt a little too rough key point Leave no scuff marks just lift the small particles you can repaint if needed at this point.
6. wait 1.5 hours for flash time following recommendations by paint manufacturer tech sheets.
7. Lay the clear down. Be sure to follow the nozzle presssure recommmendations from manufacturer web site you may have to dig for them or write to them for recommendations. Taken from MartinSr who has been a great help to me reading his past comments regardless of the drama from post replies to his sections.
8. You need to treat the spray gun as though you are fine tuning a carbeurator to get proper atomization. I sacrificed several moving boxes and my trunk lid. Also clear is differnet than paint adequate lighting to see shiny spots track where you have been
9. lay the clear down so it is wet pay close attention and release spray nozzel at first sign of puddling. never let the gun rest while spraying.
The primer required 600 for first base coat according to tech sheets and second can be 800 to 1000 grit between coats of base.
this is offered as advice READ tech sheets. RTFM (Read the F$%'n Manual) ;)
Also make sure base coat is compatible with primer and vice versa primer compatible with base coat.
I hope this helps... and happy painting
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