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Old 04-24-2010, 08:33 AM
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Painting Fiberglass Jeep

Hi,

I'm getting ready to prep my fiberglass jeep body for paint. This is a new fiberglass body that I've let sit in the sun to make sure it has been cured. I'm a novice to painting and have been reading my sources on the necessary steps to create a nice paint job. I"ll post some pics, but it's for a 1978 CJ5 so there aren't many curves except on the hood and fenders. Below are the list of steps I plan to take to prime the Jeep. Oh and I've already picked the color for the jeep. It's Daytona Blue. Again, I'm a novice so if I'm leaving stuff out I'd be glad to hear from you all. Since this is the first vehicle I will have painted, I'm not expecting to produce a show quality car, but I'm aiming for something durable, and looks better than if I were to roll and tip the paint job.

1. Wash with warm soapy water.
2. Allow to dry.
3. Degrease with scotch-brite pad and Super Clean Deagreaser (it's biodegradable so I just grabbed it).
4. Sand body and fenders with 80-100 grit.
5. Inspect for pin holes and low spots (I plan on using Evercoat filler and glazing putty...any suggestions?).
6. Sandy fill areas with 180 grit (Is filler easily sand-able...should I use 220 grit?).
7. Air blow surface to get dust off and degrease again.
8. Shoot with epoxy primer (to seal fiberglass) and primer gun.

The only paint place we have around here is CarQuest. They only sell Dupont paints correct? I know they have Nasons, but is it a bad quality of paint? I've read that once you pick a brand to start your paint job that you should finish with that. I'm not sure what type of paint system to look for when choosing an epoxy primer so can someone help me there? I need to shoot the primer on the underside of the jeep to, to help seal it correct?

Hopefully I did not put you to sleep with all this

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Old 04-24-2010, 08:49 AM
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paint

stay away from imron !!!!!!!!!!! its a major stinker and if u are spraying in an attached garage it WILL get into the house..
nason is duponts lower grade paint. nothing wrong with it. i worked at duponts R&D lab in philly, but never asked the lab guys what the diff was... i used duponts croma primer paint. base/clear... and if u want to know... no i didn't not pay for my paint... got everything free of course... it was my first time painting and it feel it went on very well... now i did get a few runs on the clear, mainly because i couldn't see it.. have u thought of "auto zones" paint.. don't recall the name.
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Old 04-24-2010, 02:05 PM
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Letting the 'glass cure is a good idea. I've done that myself, to make sure it won't shrink on me later.

I've been painting 'glass bodied cars since '72. I don't see any reason to prime the underside. Epoxy is okay, or you can go right to 2K for block sanding, since you don't really need to waterproof the surface.

If you are using cheaper paints, avoid reds and dark colors. That way the color is less likely to fade fast.... and if the gloss suffers from "dieback", it won't be as obvious.
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Old 04-24-2010, 03:19 PM
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Quote:
have u thought of "auto zones" paint.. don't recall the name.
I've read bad things about the durability of their paint. I'm looking to do a urethane BC/CC. So the Nason brand is durable?

Quote:
I've been painting 'glass bodied cars since '72. I don't see any reason to prime the underside. Epoxy is okay, or you can go right to 2K for block sanding, since you don't really need to waterproof the surface.
TucsonJay, can you elaborate? For instance, on the unfinished side of a fiberglass piece( where it's rough and you can see all the chop or fiberglass layup) I always get slivers of fiberglass in my hand. Don't you have to worry about water penetrating and de-laminating your fiberglass? I've never worked with fiberglass either so I'm unsure.

Thanks for the responses guys!
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Old 04-24-2010, 04:38 PM
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I thought that the fear many have about water might be the problem. If it were metal, I would say yes. Fiberglass is not "waterbased" so you don't have to worry about water damaging it. It is made up of a catalyzed plastic resin and glass fibers. Remember they use it for boats. :-)

The sharp points, that you sometimes see, will depend on how it was manufactured, and if the guy doing it paid close attention to the details. "chopped" (sprayed) fiberglass often has some loose strands here and there. "Hand laid" fiberglass is rolled to push the fibers into the resin, and to get rid of air bubbles.

If you want to smooth it out, and have less hazard of loose glass fibers sticking out, how about something like bed liner? It would fill in the texture for a better appearance, and cover the occasional "thorns".
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Old 04-25-2010, 01:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TucsonJay
I thought that the fear many have about water might be the problem. If it were metal, I would say yes. Fiberglass is not "waterbased" so you don't have to worry about water damaging it. It is made up of a catalyzed plastic resin and glass fibers. Remember they use it for boats. :-)

The sharp points, that you sometimes see, will depend on how it was manufactured, and if the guy doing it paid close attention to the details. "chopped" (sprayed) fiberglass often has some loose strands here and there. "Hand laid" fiberglass is rolled to push the fibers into the resin, and to get rid of air bubbles.

If you want to smooth it out, and have less hazard of loose glass fibers sticking out, how about something like bed liner? It would fill in the texture for a better appearance, and cover the occasional "thorns".
the sharp points your referring to are the ends of the fiberglass that stick up, no amount of rolling out will ever stop this, this generally happens on corners or on small bumps, this can be easily fix by sanding the fiberglass with 80grit sandpaper.Make sure you wear leather gloves just in case you get stabbed, they bloody hurt...any good fiberglasser would do this for you before they give you the parts..well i do it anyway.

to prep the parts for sanding, I'm assuming they are gelcoated, you only need to sand with 240 grit sandpaper, 80 is a bit rough and can leave deep gouges..
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Old 04-27-2010, 04:01 PM
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jeep paint

I painted my fiberglass CJ7 body about 10 years ago. You are prepping it about the same way I did. I just used some old lacquer primer I had lying around as primer/surfacer then I shot it with bc/cc. It still looks good, I never have waxed it and rarely wash it. One mistake I made was this: I had a new windshield rubber seal installed. They use a silicone-based mold release for many rubber parts. I didn't clean the area around the windshield well enough with wg remover to get rid of the silicone which can outgass to nearby areas. As a result I had paint adhesion problems around the windshield.

enjoy the Jeep

Ron
64 GTO convertible
79 CJ7
87 Grand Wagoneer
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Old 04-27-2010, 10:24 PM
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I like Tucsonjay's idea, using box liner on the underside. Strong will keep it from spider cracking and looks rouged for that kind of toy. I have a portable Vortec spray liner machine cost me clost to $23,000 5 years ago and that stuff is incredible, I sprayed a cinder block and hit it with a sludge hammer, it crushed the cement but the spray liner held it together and kept it's same shape. Anyways that's a good idea.

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Old 05-02-2010, 09:44 AM
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jeep cj fiberglass body etc

Check to see if the body was made with epoxy resin or polyester resin. If you really want to get technical you should apply the same material primer over it.Also dont reach for the paint gun without first putting a coat of sealer over it.
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Old 05-02-2010, 03:22 PM
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Painting fiberglass isn't that big a deal. I think a good sealer would be a good idea. Check with whoever you buy your paint from for a good one, compatible with the glass, and the paint you are using.

Most any good bc/cc paint will do fine. My last Jeep was painted withMartin-Seynour, from our NAPA dealer. It still looked good when I sold it about 10 years later. I'd stay away from cheapo paints though, like AutoZone. You don't know what you're getting.

If you wanted to spend less, check around for a dealer who still sells acrylic enamel. When mixed with catalyst, it makes a good durable job. It doesn't require a clearcoat. My old Jeep when thru the woods, creeks, hillclimbs, being parked outside for years.....and still looked good.

One other thing...fiberglass sometimes generates static electricity, which can give you fits during the process. If you encounter any, get an alligator clip and a piece of electrical wire; clip the body somewhere and attach the other end of the wire to a grounding source (water pipe, electrical box, etc.)

Last edited by dalesy; 05-03-2010 at 08:37 AM.
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