[G8keeper_usa]

I have heard that painting the inside of the block helps the oil to return to the pan faster. I'm sure that would be helpfull in high performance aps. Has anyone done this? Is there a procedure involved? anything would be helpfull at this point. Thanks.

[5.0Towncar]

I don't think regular spray paint will resist oil. I don't know what type of paint you could use, but I don't sugest it. Steve

[BOBCRMAN@aol.com]

in the old days we used Glyptal a paint used by electric motor rewinders. not really worth the effort..

[milner]

i have my 351c done this way, and it really works. it fills in all the pours, and oil returns very quickly. it is a epoxy paint, but i can't tell you the make, because it was done at the engine rebuilders. it has been in there for close to 12 years.

[reddwarf]

[quote]Originally posted by milner:
<strong>i have my 351c done this way, and it really works. </strong><hr></blockquote>

Just out of curiosity....how do you actually know this? Clear intake manifold?
<img src="confused.gif" border="0">

[BstMech]

You could deburr/remove the cast lines in the oil return holes in the heads and block. And maybe plug the return holes in center of the block.

[4 Jaw Chuck]

Not worth wasting your time on, deburring the return holes is a better way to spend it.

[mstngjoe]

Bobcrman is correct. Glyptal was/is the choice for most of the shops or people who do this. I have a can sitting on my shelf but probably won't use it. Some say it's worth it and some say not. I would be concerned about getting the surface spotless enough to insure the stuff stayed there. Since I'm paranoid by nature, I'll probably pass.

Anyway, check this link for some info from a shop that provides the service.

<a href="http://www.autoblueprint.com/exterior_paint.shtml" target="_blank">http://www.autoblueprint.com/exterior_paint.shtml</a>

[willys36@aol.com]

Crazy me, I painted the inside of my engine with rust red lacquer primer 20 years ago and it is still there!

[72 chevy]

Buddy of mine bought an engine from the local self-proclaimed engine expert. He ran the thing for a few days, then suddenly he started losing oil pressure...care to take a guess? He pulled the pan (which was also painted inside) and there were huge flakes of chevy orange stuck to the pickup screen! If you do this, do it right, and use the paints these guys are recommending.

[engineguy]

Your best bet is to go over the inside of the valley with a die grinder, knocking down any rough areas and casting flash. Then smooth the ends of the block where it makes transition into the oil drain holes.
If you insist on painting the inside of the block, use Glyptal which is made by General Electric for the inside of electric motors. It is a time consuming project to paint the inside of a block, because you have to make sure that NO paint is left in the lifter bores, cam tunnel, main bearing surfaces, etc. It does look neat when done right, though. The most important thing (like any other paint project) is to make sure that the surfaces to be painted are absolutely clean and dry. Then, after the paint is applied, it should be cured with heat lamps.

[milner]

reddwarf the comedian!. have you never had the intake off a motor, or installed lifters, or even dumped oil in the valley. if you had ever seen a internal painted engine, you could plainly see how fast the oil returns, compared to a rough cast engine. so you see i don't need a clear manifold, just common sense.

[72 chevy]

Oh yeah, the guy my buddy bought the engine from tried to tell me that with a performer intake,"Since it is a 180 degree firing order intake, you gotta change your timing 180 deg" He been <img src="graemlins/pimp.gif" border="0" alt="[pimp]" /> <img src="graemlins/drunk.gif" border="0" alt="[drunk]" />

[Chevy Thunder]

Listen to these guys its just not worth it, use a larger oil pan and a high volume pump