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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 03-29-2010, 03:25 PM
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Well woke up late day, 11am which is extremely rare for me. The GF spent the night so we went out for errands. Got a few things at walmart including more tack clothes, went to home depot and returned a mask I bought because it wasn't suitable for paint and bought a different one. Went to NAPA to ask about filters for a mask that my GFs dad gave me, and they told me the one I bought from home depot also isn't suitable for painting. Ending up buying one from NAPA that was recommended for painting, and was even cheaper than the ones from home depot that I bought. Went out to lunch, then had to go to my girlfriends "woman" doctor. Holy hell, for an "in and out" process, I sat there for 2 miserable hours. They must have been handing out free "car" washes and waxes. Now I'm just ready to take it easy, no primer laid today. I did however take 10 minutes to setup my filter on my air compressor. I set my PSI to 30, however notice it drops a couple of PSI when under load. Should I adjust for this to get a constant 30 under load? Speaking of PSI, paint says 30 psi, gun says 40. Which one should I use?

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 03-29-2010, 06:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyberdork
So finally get spring break from school and plan to paint my motorcycle, BUT the days I'm off of work and plan to do it are rainy days. I'm going to be painting in our big heated garage and I know cold weather makes for longer drying times, but what are the effects of painting in high humidity weather?
With most of todays urethanes, Relative humidity isn't a big factor in drying time, unless you get up into the higher range of 80%+ Then you get all kinds of neat things happening.
Moisture in the air seems to cause the urethane to "kick over" quicker.
But the surface temp may invite condensation.
I like to paint when the surface temp is warm, and the rain is falling.
I don't really worry too much about the air temp, as long as I can wear a T-shirt while painting, simply adjust re-coat times accordingly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by shine
ever hear of iso clumping ?
No I haven't, (Not heard it called that) but I do know that when the floor is wet, the job will be fulla trash. And as a result Every Job I do is fulla trash. (unless th' boss aint around) Because the guy I work for insists on keeping the floor wet. And will raise Cain if I'm painting and it's not wet.
I generally wash out the floor, and start blowing the surfaces to be painted.
By the time it's clean the floor is clean (washed) and nearly dry, I go mix paint, and come back for a final blow down, and the floor is soakin' wet, half th' car, and everything around. Boss is draggin' th' hose out the door.
Time I get all the water blowed off the car, and finally ready to paint, he's there with a bucket dumpin more water.
Used to do it to me 25 years ago when we were usin' Laquer. And then gripe about blush!!
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Old 03-30-2010, 07:32 PM
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My little helper! Isn't she cute!

Me cranking away

Weapon of choice

Supplies:

Final coats:

You can see where the drill and sanding disc did some damage...

Last peice

Yours truely

Overall I was pleased with the ease of painting, but the primer really brings out the imperfections in everything.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 03-31-2010, 07:04 AM
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In your first pic I noticed the yellow box of "rags in a bag" by scott ...By far the the best deal on lint free prep towels I've found ....Thats exactly what I use at my shop for paint prep. looking good
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Old 03-31-2010, 09:26 PM
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I'm wondering how much those imperfections are going to show in the paint. My bondo job LOOKED good, until primered. It doesn't look that bad fortunately. I wish I could have done it better, but it's directly on top of the crease of 3 different surfaces. For a first/second time bondo'er, I think I did decent. Should attempt to spot putty those imperfections or just leave them alone? I'm afraid of turning it into a warty mess instead of shallow spots. If I do want to fix it, should I sand down to plastic and putty, or can I putty ontop of the primer? I was also told get a 2 part putty and not my 3M putty. Appreciate the help!
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 04-01-2010, 05:13 AM
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You were told right,I like ez sand putty by evercoat.
I dont understand how you got a dent way up there in the tank though, usually dents show up on parts that are.... closer to the ground..
As far as your bodywork goes you should guidecoat the primer before sanding, it'll show you where the flaws are and where to putty any low spots.Make sure to prime it a last time when your done.
More pics would be nice......of your helper not the bike .....She really is a cuttie... What color are you going with? I'm painting mine snake skin green (Dodge) I striped about 15 coats of paint off the tank and I'm priming today.
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Old 04-01-2010, 05:34 AM
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So you're saying sand it down completely and putty it with a 2 part? I'm thinking either white or Kia Copperhead Orange. It's a dark gray metallic frame.

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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 04-01-2010, 05:53 AM
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Spray some cheap, black, rattle can paint in a light mist coat over the primer before sanding,start sanding with 180(use a soft block) and all the low spots will stay black,the high spots will pop right out.fill your lows with putty and sand again,prime it all one more time and wet sand with 400- 6oo then paint .it looks good so far ,It should turn out great...
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Old 04-01-2010, 07:02 AM
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humidity

I was in Ireland to review the company's operations there. They were having problems with the silk screen process, different than painting but the fumes in their drying room would almost knock you over. and they had long curing times in the winter. the air was getting saturated with solvent vapor. I had them add more ventilation and the cure times dropped.
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Old 04-02-2010, 09:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
You were told right,I like ez sand putty by evercoat.
I dont understand how you got a dent way up there in the tank though, usually dents show up on parts that are.... closer to the ground..
As far as your bodywork goes you should guidecoat the primer before sanding, it'll show you where the flaws are and where to putty any low spots.Make sure to prime it a last time when your done.
More pics would be nice......of your helper not the bike .....She really is a cuttie... What color are you going with? I'm painting mine snake skin green (Dodge) I striped about 15 coats of paint off the tank and I'm priming today.
Man that tank looks like a murder scene! This is what mine looked like stripping
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 04-02-2010, 09:44 PM
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I stripped off about 12 coats of paint including fill primers and epoxies I finished the bodywork and primed today.the rest of the bike has issues too,I gotta strip all the plastic pieces with a razor blade.what a beach. You got lucky ,looks like the original paint on yours
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Old 04-03-2010, 09:01 AM
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Haha yea, that was the original. Most of it came off with the brush that I applied the stripper with. My bike had terrible carb problems, then I THINK I fixed them and ran the bike for maybe 5 minutes. After that I pulled all the peices and started prep work. This was a good 4 months ago, and I fear once I get done and put it back together, more carb problems will pop up.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 04-03-2010, 09:42 AM
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This one is kicking my butt,I'd rather do a whole car.
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Old 04-04-2010, 05:30 PM
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How noticable do you think the spots that need a little putty will look after paint if I don't touch them up? The whole peice is in a little rough shape and needs like an entire new surface of putty. I'm thinking about just spraying it and not risk having putty problems. That, and show people the opposite side lol, or throw some decals over it lol
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Old 04-05-2010, 05:40 AM
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If you stripped to the steel ans sand it with 80gt it should be ok to prime.if it has dents they need filling before paint or they'll stick out like a sore thumb.Once its primed,you can sand with 320 da or 400 wet sand and paint
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