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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 04-05-2010, 06:11 AM
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It's one of the plastic peices. Should I sand back down to plastic or putty over the primer, then reprime?

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 04-05-2010, 06:57 AM
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Sand them (180) but NOT down to the plastic.
prime, not putty
,if anything still sticks out (like a gouge) then putty that and prime again. but try not to leave a heavy buildup of primer.stop sanding if you hit plastis (it'll fuzz up and be hard to get rid of)
you can sand it almost all off .
In other words ...use the primer as a putty it'll be more flexable and easier to sand
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 04-05-2010, 10:16 AM
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I'm really not trying to be a pain in the ***, but you said don't leave a heavy build up of primer, but then also use the primer as the putty.


???????
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 04-05-2010, 10:43 AM
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Primer can be built up in places to fill shallow gauges and pin holes, it will not however fill large gaps or holes the way body filler will.

Vince
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 04-05-2010, 01:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyberdork
I'm really not trying to be a pain in the ***, but you said don't leave a heavy build up of primer, but then also use the primer as the putty.


???????
spray the primer and sand it off to cover imperfections, putty the larger ones
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 04-06-2010, 11:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
spray the primer and sand it off to cover imperfections, putty the larger ones
It looks like you can sand that down close, re-prime and block it out with 400.

If you are spraying a base clear metallic it has to be smooth or the metallic will pool into the creases and look darker in those spots, especially a silver or a gold, white will also show surface imperfections but it will be less noticeable, a black you can get away with much more.

I also like spraying on rainy days, I use window cleaner instead of wax n grease remover because it flashes off faster, cheap tack cloths are way too tacky, cheap Viva paper towels work great for me, and a water trap on your compressor is a good investment, if you can't afford a nice one get a cheap one, and use the disposable filters on your gun.
http://www.kbs-coatings.com.au/asset...es/sgf-300.jpg
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Old 04-08-2010, 04:43 PM
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Apply clear? If so, wetsand with 2000?
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 04-12-2010, 11:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyberdork
Apply clear? If so, wetsand with 2000?
If its in primer, wet sand it with 600 or 800 grit before laying down your base coat, then clear, then after the clear is cured, wet sand with 1500-2000 grit and buff/polish.

There isn't anything made to stick to 2000 grit, I seen 1000 grit color sanding base, but 2000 grit is nibbing dust out of clear before buffing and polishing only.

If you have it in base coat already, and it's been in base coat for more then a few hours you have to wet sand the base coat with 600-1000 grit, then put on another coat of base coat before clearing.

You can't sand base coat without reapplying another coat of base on top of it to cover the scratches, or you will see the scratches after you clear it.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 04-17-2010, 08:16 AM
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 04-17-2010, 08:50 AM
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your way ahead of me,I'm still priming little pieces
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Old 04-17-2010, 12:21 PM
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I ALMOST forgot the peice on the right in the pic where the peices are hanging on the wall. Was just about to disassemble my gun and clean it and realized it was still hanging there. I only used half a quart of paint to paint all of those peices, 4 coats (8:4:1 ratio so 8 ounches of paint turn into 13, and I spray really thin to avoid runs since I'm a noobie). I'm hoping it's going to be halfway durable Next comes clear.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 04-18-2010, 03:51 AM
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I've done that many times.
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 04-28-2010, 06:10 PM
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updates (question mark)
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Old 04-28-2010, 07:25 PM
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Still need to clear. Been sidetracked with a 89 Mustang GT I bought as a project
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Old 04-29-2010, 01:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cyberdork
Still need to clear. Been sidetracked with a 89 Mustang GT I bought as a project
same here
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