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Old 07-03-2006, 03:37 AM
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Painting with metallic paint

Is there a trick or a special way to paint a metallic paint with out getting the striped affect. First time I painted my chevelle medium blue metallic it sorta looked like a bengal tiger there was so many stripes. I am about to go round two with my Harley and dont want to stripe the metallic. Any tips??? Tricks???...anything

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Old 07-03-2006, 05:19 AM
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There are thee things:
Gun adjustment, Gun adjustment and Gun adjustment.

The number one reason for clear chipping or peeling is because people do not adjust their gun and with a metallic stand back and fog the paint on or they do that on the last coat.
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Old 07-03-2006, 06:10 AM
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Gun adjustment and nice even coats is going to be the most important factor. Also many do a drop coat, mist coat whatever they choose to call it, spraying at different angles to help even out the metallic. But it is best to have the base smooth and not overly dry and rough for best adhesion of the clear. Make sure you have the proper tip size in the gun and get the gun set up and spraying right. Overreducing just a tad on your final coat may help a little, as well as increasing airpressure if you are having problems, but use in moderation. Some colors of metallics are going to be a little more difficult to spray evenly like your silvers and light blues. And the base used is going to make a bit of a difference in ease also, some are known for having better metallic control then others. Doing a small part like a tank should be a little easier getting metallic even then a large area like a complete car. Good luck, practice practice practice and adjust, adjust, adjust. Sorry, barry started the repeat yourself three time thing.
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Old 07-03-2006, 07:08 AM
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I have found that one of the reasons for striping in metallic paint is too much material flow from the gun. If the gun is adjusted properly and a 50% overlap is applied you will have no striping.

Vince
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Old 07-03-2006, 07:13 AM
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I do a drop coat on the tougher metalics. Apply as many coats as needed untill full coverage is obtained, usually 2-3 medium/wet coats with good flash time between coats. Then apply one more medium/wet then pull the gun back while that coat is still fresh and mist on a couple of light drop coats. If the timing is right and the proper temperature range reducer is used that drop coat will melt right into the previous coat with even metalic layout. Now let it flash for a good amount of time and apply your clear.

Singlestage metalics require a drop coat almost every time and the technique is basically the same but no clear applied.

When people have adhesion or durability problems with bc/cc after doing a drop coat it can be blamed on using reducer that's too fast or the timing isn't right when the drop was applied causing dry spray.

Some paints there's just no way of getting around doing a drop coat, PPG's Global is one of them. A metalic nightmare for most unless a drop coat is done.

Activate your base, this helps your color and clear crosslink and keeps the respray window open longer which also helps with durability and adhesion.
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Old 07-03-2006, 11:26 AM
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What brand of paint is it?
Like bob said, Some,especally the "value line" paints are impossiable to not stripe. Nason being one as well. A slower reducer is another "trick" with the cheap stuff, it stays wet longer giving the metallic more time to flow out.
I've had better luck using a RP or conventional type spraygun instead of an hvlp with the cheap stuff as well.
I personally have givin up shooting value line metallics. I just pay the extra for a quality paint and live happly ever after.
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Old 07-03-2006, 12:26 PM
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Im not sure what kind of paint I am going to be using. Something black....but I am undecided on whether I want metallic or not. Then i was thinking about two-toning it, but I dont think i can get the lines right. Any suggestions on paint type. Its going on a Harley and its going to be done in a unhumidafied green house so it can sort of be "baked on".....not sure if that is a good idea so if you think it would work I would like to know.
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Old 07-31-2013, 12:58 AM
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This is great info.
I am spray silver metallic and ran into trouble as I sanded the primer prior to shooting the metallic.
Both areas where primer was sanded had issues where the metallic did not go on evenly like bald spot.

are you not supposed to sand prior to applying metallics?
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Old 07-31-2013, 01:20 AM
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Kevin, this post is 7 years old, always look at the date.
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Old 07-31-2013, 01:27 AM
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yeah I saw that. I thought it was related to my question so i figured I instead of starting a new post.
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Old 07-31-2013, 07:36 AM
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Kevin, you can sand the primer before shooting a metallic...the trick is what grit your sanding it with. With metallic's, Single Stage or Base Coat, make sure that the grit of sand paper is fine enough to cover the sand scratches with your paint. For example, with Single Stage metallic's I use nothing coarser than 400 grit, Base Clear metallic's nothing coarser than 600 grit. If you have a good substrate such as a quality 2K primer or a quality Epoxy, there isn't any need for a sealer coat, again, providing that the substrate was sanded/prepped properly.

Make sure that your gun is adjusted properly, apply the paint until you have achieved coverage, don't worry about tiger stripping. Use a slower reducer than you normally would for a solid color to keep your paint wet. When you are applying your last coat...for example, you have painted your fender and given the hood a coat of paint, go back to the first fender and apply a mist coat on the fender standing about 15 to 18 inches away from the fender. This will even out your metallic's...do the other fender, and then apply the mist or drop coat on the hood...this should help with evening out the metallic's.

Hope this helps.

Ray
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Old 07-31-2013, 09:08 PM
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Just so you know, Ray, Barry really hates the drop coat. He says it's one of the biggest reasons for clear coat failures/peeling.
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Old 07-31-2013, 09:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lizer View Post
Just so you know, Ray, Barry really hates the drop coat. He says it's one of the biggest reasons for clear coat failures/peeling.
Very understandable, however some of the real light blues, greens etc. there really is no way around doing a drop coat. In my experience anyway. Darker metallics not such an issue.
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Old 07-31-2013, 09:42 PM
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Just so you know, I agree with Barry, drop coats can be one of the biggest problems other than trapped solvent for clear coat peeling. That's why, if you check my post, I mentioned to the OP to use a reducer that was slower than he would normally use in a solid color. I mentioned that because of the reason that you are pointing out. The biggest mistake that people make is to use a medium reducer and then apply a drop or mist coat. The medium reducer will flash the Base Coat quicker and be too dry by the time he goes back to even out the metallic's. With a slower reducer, the panel will still be flashing while the drop coat is being applied and the metallic's will melt in.

I'm not a fan of drop coats but, take for example, 1990 code 22 from GM, (sorry can't remember the WA number), it's a light blue metallic, a very fine, heavily concentrated light blue metallic. I have sprayed that color in Sikens, PPG, Dupont, Nexa and SW. It doesn't matter how I set up my gun...it leaves stripes. With a slow rducer and going back to the panel and applying a drop coat it eliminates the stripping. There are other metallic colors as well, in the late 90's, Toyota came out with a silver, (again forgive me but the code escapes me). I was repping Dupont at the time...every Body Shop I dealt with had trouble with that color and we had to resort to the drop coat method.

As long as the panel that you are applying the drop coat to is still fairly wet, adhesion is not a problem, it's when they do the drop coat when the panel has virtually flashed and the mist coat is applied that they have the problem, that problem is that the mist coat is drying before it hits the panel, you clear over top and the paint lets go because you cleared over dust or cleared on top of overspray.

Hope I made sense.

Ray
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Old 07-31-2013, 09:43 PM
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Thank you Dennis, I was writing my post to explain when you posted.

Ray
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