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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 12-16-2012, 09:34 AM
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Do you not have a PPG jobber near by? If you order on line you'll need to buy full bottles of the powdered pearls and the binder and balancer only come in 1 gallon cans. There should be a PPG jobber somewhere near you?

Either the blue or green look good...always your call, I'm more partial to Black with a pearl mid coat but that's me....you gotta go with your gut on this one.

Ray

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 12-16-2012, 06:55 PM
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Sorry about the last post...I meant Dupont jobber...the same is true, you won't be able to get the amount mixed you need on line and it will end up costing you more.

Ray
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 12-16-2012, 07:15 PM
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yeah i got a few around me but when i go in there to talk to them they look at me funny and full out the paint cards and tell me to find what im looking for in there lol..

i need to find the paint code for the new 2013 ford blue on the trucks.. thats a nice blue..
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Old 12-16-2012, 07:30 PM
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i found it lol J4 is the paint code..
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 12-17-2012, 04:01 AM
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The first thing you need to do is to decide how nice you want your IH to look and how much you are willing to spend. A weekend "beater" doesn't need anything more than paint to keep it from rusting. A street truck should be nice enough to enter into judging. You also have to consider how much fixing the body will cost. You may need to weld on patch panels or entire q-panels.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 12-17-2012, 07:17 AM
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Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
Hi Mike...I hope I got the name right, I hate calling anybody "dead", so if I got the name right let me know...just more comfortable with Mike than dead.

I would love to try some of the SPI product...I know you as well as others on this site swear by the product. I have no reason to doubt you but it's difficult for me to recommend something I haven't tried...Maybe I should PM Barry and see if it's even possible to ship to Canada with respect to VOC laws up here. Sure would love to try it, does is sand as well as a quality 2K primer like PPG's K38?
I prefer Mike ,69 ...I used the DP epoxys for years, right up till I tried SPI then never used them again..The SPI sands very well ALMOST as well as a 2k build primer,You can also build it by applying more coats but it wont build by laying it down heavy as so many do...for someone like you with years of expeiance doing body work I'm sure you have no need in relying on primer to get your work straightand hate sanding all that primer back off(its just not needed)...Personally I sand my body work up to 320 and prime...the SPI works great for me...A few years ago when I was testing its limits on my personal car I left some 36 grit scratches and tried to fill them I sprayed a good wet coat every hour and put on 8 coats of primer,after it cured I sanded it all down like any 2k and it worked fantastic I was surprised this is not something I was used too using epoxy primer..That was over 7yrs ago and it still looks great...Funny thing is I was using it like the DP 40 2 coats and 2k over it for a couple years until someone told me (from this site) it could be used as a building primer when needed....Give SPI a call I think they can get it up there I know you'll love it..BTW it makes one heck of a great sealer too.......Mike
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 12-17-2012, 11:23 PM
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I guess I am going to add a few things about the SPI epoxy. One of the latest cars i have been working on I figured that I would use the epoxy over my poly primer instead of a 2K. I sprayed 3 coats of unreduced epoxy waiting 30 min between coats and like Mike says it does not build thick like the DP does it goes on very thin. The cure time is longer than a 2K would be, so if your in a big rush this may not be the way to go. But I let it sit about a week then start blocking with 220, then finish with 320. It does sand well, then I have been reducing about 20% as a sealer and lays down real nice. Have been using this for about 2 years now, and like it so far.
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2012, 07:34 AM
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Just dont forget to clean your gun when your done...I forgot one time and had 3/4" of primer in the cup ,had to throw the cup out and had a devil of a time cleaning the gun...I think I used paint stripper...You wont do it twice though...
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2012, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
I prefer Mike ,69 ...I used the DP epoxys for years, right up till I tried SPI then never used them again..The SPI sands very well ALMOST as well as a 2k build primer,You can also build it by applying more coats but it wont build by laying it down heavy as so many do...for someone like you with years of expeiance doing body work I'm sure you have no need in relying on primer to get your work straightand hate sanding all that primer back off(its just not needed)...Personally I sand my body work up to 320 and prime...the SPI works great for me...A few years ago when I was testing its limits on my personal car I left some 36 grit scratches and tried to fill them I sprayed a good wet coat every hour and put on 8 coats of primer,after it cured I sanded it all down like any 2k and it worked fantastic I was surprised this is not something I was used too using epoxy primer..That was over 7yrs ago and it still looks great...Funny thing is I was using it like the DP 40 2 coats and 2k over it for a couple years until someone told me (from this site) it could be used as a building primer when needed....Give SPI a call I think they can get it up there I know you'll love it..BTW it makes one heck of a great sealer too.......Mike
Boy Mike, you hit the nail right on the head...I finish my body work in 320 as well, it takes a just a little more time and if the is straight, you more than make up for the cost of fine finishing in the amount of primer you use, let alone the better finish.

Sealer, we doon need no stinkin sealer...Sorry Mike, I hate sealer, if the body work is done right and the vehicle is properly prepped, there's no need for sealer, for me it's just another coat of product to get dirt in.

As a matter of fact I PMed Barry yesterday and he got back to me...I'll be trying the product shortly.

Ray
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 12-19-2012, 08:08 AM
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Pretty much the only time I need a sealer is when I strip a hood or something down to the metal .I'll mix the epoxy 20-40% and spray 2 coats,then wait a few minutes,enough to nib any dirt out and go right to paint.. One of the nice things about the SPI is it comes in black and white so you can mix your primer color to get a shade thats close to the car.for instance a light gold car would be all white primer...I have so much left over base that I use it as a sealer to cover my primer ,getting a close match over my primer and filling sand scratches so all thats needed from the new paint is the color.it saves a ton on paint costs..
I was floored a few months ago when I needed a gal of bourdo red (08 Impala) and dupont was around 95.00 a pint (A PINT!!!!) PPG was about 120.00 a pint, so I bought a quart went back to the shop and mixed up something very close with my leftovers (a little of this and a little of that) all chroma base of course....I painted the whole entire car with 2 coats of my mix then used the new mix for the color only and sprayed 2 fog coats over everything getting the proper effects for that color...I ended up saving over 600.00 on paint and as a plus got rid of some of the clutter at the paint bench.....
PAINT makes the BEST sealer....
If I want to be sure there are no light spots with one of those transparent colors I'll just give the primerd spots a quick coat of the same color
I'm using for the whole car...
The problem with these high build primers is most people leave to much on when doing a super straight job on the whole car ,Sure the car comes out super straight but theres a still a crap load of primer on it thats not needed so it chips easily and very deeply...There's nothing worse than seeing a beautifull paint job a few years old with huge,deep chips in it...using epoxy as your only primer seams to work best....
I think you'll be the next member of our little cult once you've tried it...
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 12-19-2012, 08:18 AM
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I have a meeting with my customer in about 20 minutes to let him know he's getting SPI epoxy and clear on his vehicle...Mike, if it what you and many others on this forum say it is, I'll be glad to join the group. I do have a bit of a local following and people, myself included, are getting tired of the high prices and political responses when paint companies get questioned on paint related issues. Just like on "Dragnet" all we want is "just the facts" and never seem to get them.

I never asked Barry but I know he has several colors in base coat...being that this vehicle is a 1930 Ford Model A, there's going to be a lot of black...have you ever sprayed SPI's base?

Ray
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 12-19-2012, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by 69 widetrack View Post
I have a meeting with my customer in about 20 minutes to let him know he's getting SPI epoxy and clear on his vehicle...Mike, if it what you and many others on this forum say it is, I'll be glad to join the group. I do have a bit of a local following and people, myself included, are getting tired of the high prices and political responses when paint companies get questioned on paint related issues. Just like on "Dragnet" all we want is "just the facts" and never seem to get them.

I never asked Barry but I know he has several colors in base coat...being that this vehicle is a 1930 Ford Model A, there's going to be a lot of black...have you ever sprayed SPI's base?

Ray
No I havent Ray,but few years ago I sprayed some SS black and was very impressed... I'm painting my Iroc and plan on using (SPI red) base and have absolutely no problems or worries that it'll be great stuff,everything they make is top notch ...I understand how tough it is switching to another product when your so used to what you've been using for years so let me put your mind at rest, trust me, I was the same way ...you'll not only LOVE SPI you'll wish you switched years ago...I cant wait to hear how you like the stuff once you've used it...and be critical about it too...but get a 1.4 tip for the clear....
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 12-19-2012, 10:18 AM
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Actually I don't have a "brand loyalty"...Even when I was a rep for some of the major companies, I would do jobs for people on the side (friends and cars that I thought where awesome). Very often the customer would want RM paint, even when I was a rep for Dupont or Dupont when I was a rep for PPG...To me they all work, some have different quirks or lay down a bit different...one RM clear had to have a mist coat and then a "juice" coat to get it to lay down properly...what's more important to me is how I'm treated by whoever represents the company...don't get me wrong, quality is of high importance but, I look at it this way...if I'm buying say PPG and I have 2 jobbers close to me...I'm buying from the jobber that will look after me and my customer more than the one that has the best price or the shiniest building or sells more than the guy down the street.

Service, I found out quickly, is what sells a product more than the product...if you get a good quality product and top notch service, well then you've got the best of both worlds and that's what I strive for. Brand loyalty...it's fleeting...personal relationships is lasting and is what build s confidence in a brand.

I guess where saying the same thing and I to am looking forward to spraying SPI...as far as using a 1.4 set up (I have a 1.4 set up for all of the guns that I would think of using for this product)...I'll try it first, I respect your opinion and I will get back to everybody on my honest and open feelings on the product.

Thanks again Mike...my customer gave me the go ahead so I'll be using SPI in the New Year. He asked me how much...I told him, "your going to have over $25 K in the build and your worried about 1 or 2 hundred bucks in price", I didn't tell him that in all probability it would be more cost effective...that's the little extra I can give my customer at the end of the build.

Ray
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 12-19-2012, 04:34 PM
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The first thing you need to do is to decide how nice you want your IH to look and how much you are willing to spend. A weekend "beater" doesn't need anything more than paint to keep it from rusting. A street truck should be nice enough to enter into judging. You also have to consider how much fixing the body will cost. You may need to weld on patch panels or entire q-panels.
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this is a full custom truck something i will drive but also show. im builing it to have a goal to make it into a magazine or 2.. i have alot of body mods that im doing so, the truck is far from a street beater
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Old 12-19-2012, 04:56 PM
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ok.. all this talk about 2k primers.. epoxy primers.. this and that yall have me lost not going to lie lol..

someone tell me in beginner talk what yall are saying! if i can cut down on one stage of paint thats a good thing. my truck will be in primer for a few months and outside covered cuz of not having room to do my other metal work. the cab is in my 1 car shop the paint is good on the cab but i have some mods done thats down to bare metal. the bed is just about bare metal after i get done cutting on it. the inner fender wells are bare metal so everything needs to be sealed so it will not rust from setting. i dont plain to paint the truck for a few months and i live in houston tx kinda close to the water.

im learning all the paint stuff i can on here and yall have been a big help. the guy thats painting my truck likes PPG stuff but im buying all the paint and doing the body work myself. now the base is chromobase but i got a price on the blue im using and its $680 a gallon lol.. so thats up in the air..
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