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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 12-19-2012, 05:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stroker52 View Post
ok.. all this talk about 2k primers.. epoxy primers.. this and that yall have me lost not going to lie lol..

someone tell me in beginner talk what yall are saying! if i can cut down on one stage of paint thats a good thing. my truck will be in primer for a few months and outside covered cuz of not having room to do my other metal work. the cab is in my 1 car shop the paint is good on the cab but i have some mods done thats down to bare metal. the bed is just about bare metal after i get done cutting on it. the inner fender wells are bare metal so everything needs to be sealed so it will not rust from setting. i dont plain to paint the truck for a few months and i live in houston tx kinda close to the water.

im learning all the paint stuff i can on here and yall have been a big help. the guy thats painting my truck likes PPG stuff but im buying all the paint and doing the body work myself. now the base is chromobase but i got a price on the blue im using and its $680 a gallon lol.. so thats up in the air..
The first thing you need to do is to protect your bare metal from the elements..,and a good epoxy primer that uses a catalyst (hardner) will do that for you. As I have suggested a sandable epoxy primer would be the best way to go...Now, SPI has been talked about and recommended by numerous individuals. I have not tried it yet, but, will shortly. This primer, from all the research I have done and from what I've been told sands very well and does have good build properties (it goes on nice and thick, sorry about the () but I'm trying to put everything in a way that you can understand it). Picking your primer should be your first order of business and in reality you should have had it on hand before you started metal working and making body modifications...Not trying to be rude, just stating a fact.

Again as I mentioned PPG's DP epoxy line works well but it's not a sandable primer and needs to be top coated with a high build 2K (2K means 1) primer and 2) hardner). This system works well but it does require 2 different products whereas a sandable catalyzed epoxy primer only requires the one product. Once you have your bare metal covered with the epoxy (and say you are using the sandable epoxy) you can start to block sand your truck to ensure that your panels are straight. If your using Dupont's Chroma Base, finish sanding in a bare minimum grit of 400 grit dry or 600 grit wet...After all the straightening of panels is complete (by block sanding) you will be ready for paint...If your using Chroma Base and it's $680.00 a gallon, PPG, RM, House of Kolor, or whatever will all be in the same ballpark, give or take $100 or $300...depending on color, pearl content etc...(reds are the most expensive)...I know that $100 or $300 sounds like quit a jump and it is but, how much are you spending to get your truck into a magazine...if it cost you $25,000 or $40,000, $300 in the scheme of things shouldn't be a deal breaker...if it is, then you may need to lower your expectations...again, not trying to be rude, just explaining the way things are (the last truck I did had over $2,500.00 in paint material alone and I haven't seen it in a major publication, not to say that paint alone will get your truck in a magazine, just showing you what's involved).

So, first order of business...pick your primer, clean up your bare metal by sanding with 80 or 120 grit using a DA (Dual Action sander) and get it on your bare metal.

When you have that done and if you need more step by step information, just ask and I'll be happy to help.

I hope this answers your concerns.

Ray

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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 12-19-2012, 05:48 PM
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yeah it helps alot.. but one thing you said is to take the truck down to bare metal.. this is something im not doing the paint on all the cab is real good im just going to sand an prime but should i just epoxy the bare metal an body worked spots then shoot the rest with the 2k to give me something to block smooth?

also has anyone ever used Kustom shop paint before? ive seen it used on some of the shows i watch..
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 12-19-2012, 05:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stroker52 View Post
yeah it helps alot.. but one thing you said is to take the truck down to bare metal.. this is something im not doing the paint on all the cab is real good im just going to sand an prime but should i just epoxy the bare metal an body worked spots then shoot the rest with the 2k to give me something to block smooth?

also has anyone ever used Kustom shop paint before? ive seen it used on some of the shows i watch..
Taking the entire truck down to bare metal is something that I do when I do a show vehicle...regardless of how good the paint is in certain areas, if I'm going to warranty my work...I want it all to be my work, no second guessing if the factory did it right or if some body shop before me did it right...That doesn't mean you have to...A factory or quality paint job is a decent base for new paint...so that part of your build is your call...for me, I take it to bare metal.

Yes...If your using epoxy and 2K primer, you can epoxy the bare metal areas and 2K prime the rest of the truck with paint already on it so you can "block it smooth".

Ray
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Old 12-19-2012, 05:59 PM
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I have never used "Kustom" shop paint.
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Old 12-21-2012, 07:22 PM
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Ok well I got all my primer today and a new gun to shoot my primer yay!! Lol.. now I'm leaving the factory green paint and just going to sand it to shoot my 2k primer over. What grit paper should I use to sand it? 180 or 220?
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 12-21-2012, 07:31 PM
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If your sanding the paint, 220 is plenty course for 2K primer, on bare metal spots, 80 Grit on the DA would be preferred with an epoxy primer minimum over the bare metal areas.

Hope this helps.

Ray
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 12-22-2012, 07:15 AM
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I dont understand.....Why do you feel the need to prime the whole truck? especially with a 2kprimer?
I run into this all the time people think you have to prime the whole thing before you paint...If your thinking a primer sealerthats a whole different kind of primer...If the paint is in good shape all you really need tp do is sand and paint...when it comes to the sanding theres two types wet and dry the grits are very different also when dry sanding(da)320 is what you want but dry hand sanding should be done with 400then wet sanding 320 is way to coarse to paint over so you would use 400 -600,but nothing less than 400....
paint sticks just as well to sanded paint as it does to sanded primerand a sealer is only used to get the car all the same shade of color so the new paint dosent have any light spots,the sealer also fills sand scratches so the paint dosent have to...
Primers only provide something for the paint to stick to since paint dosent stick well to bare metal or filler you need a primer first on these areas. One other thing the primers do is fill imperfections and privide a surface thats easier to sand than bondo...Your 2k primers are nothing more than a sprayable filler thats easy to sand...
So if the body is straight and the paint is in good shape why do you you want to spray anything on it and create more sanding work and add more thickness if its not needed,and will actually make things worse,the added thickness creates problems like cracking and big chips...
The ONLY time we prime a whole car is when we STRIP a whole car down to the metal,otherwise its just a waste of time and money.....
when it comes to any prime *prime ONLY what you have to and use the right primer for the job at hand...
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