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Old 12-10-2012, 11:23 PM
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painting my truck need info??

ok i have a 98 chevy thats getting alot of metal work. most of the paint is in good shape but i will have some bare metal spots after the body work is done. ive been using the evercoat Z-grip mud to smooth out the metal work thats been done.

my question is im going to prime the whole truck after everthing is done but what should i use? omni mp282, dupont, or Clausen Z-Chrome rust defender? im trying to get the truck as strait as i can. its going back the factory dark green. also the paint is real good on the truck with no clear peeling what should i sand the truck down with before priming? im painting everthing the truck is down to the frame so i can prime everthing..

thanks for the info and help..

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Old 12-11-2012, 08:43 AM
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First of all, on bare metal spots and areas repaired with filler on the truck, I would recommend either an epoxy primer or an etch primer. I'm not familiar with Clausen Z Chrome. There are many different brands of epoxy primer...some are sandable some aren't...PPG's DP line are not recommended to be sanded, but all epoxy primers have a window of time where they can be top coated without sanding. If you use a non sanding epoxy primer, you can top coat it with a high build 2K primer and block sand ensuring that the truck is straight. Depending on the paint you use will determine what grit of paper you need for final sanding, Bast coat, 400 grit minimum, Single Stage, 320 grit.

Hope this helps.

Ray
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Old 12-11-2012, 02:20 PM
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So I need to spray epoxy primer after I get done with all my body work then come back 30 min or so with a 2k primer to block out. Then I can lay my base on top of that? The base color is made by DuPont called chromabase.
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Old 12-11-2012, 04:13 PM
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That is the procedure that I have used for many, many years.
1) Strip to bare metal
2) Complete body work
3) Epoxy Prime
4) Allow for proper flash times
5) Top coat with 2K primer
6) Block sand, to ensure all panels are straight
7) If any repair is required after blocking, repair small low spots with 2 part putty
8) Re-prime spot putty repaired areas with 2K primer
9) Block sand repaired area
10) Apply base coat, allow proper flash times between coats
11) Apply clear coat, as many as you like...(don't go crazy, but between 2 and 4 coats, it's your call)

Some people apply the epoxy primer before the body work is done...it's more preference than anything and I prefer to apply epoxy after the body work is completed. If your using Dupont's Chromabase a minimum grit to finish sanding in is 400...I prefer 600 grit wet. The reason is that when I sight the panels for straightness, 600 wet gives me a better reflection to see any low spots.

Hope this helps.
Ray
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Old 12-11-2012, 04:15 PM
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I should also mention that some of today's epoxy primer's do have good sanding qualities, if you chose an epoxy with good sanding qualities than a 2K primer is not required. You can go from epoxy primer to block sand until straight and paint.

Ray
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Old 12-12-2012, 12:13 AM
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ok whats a good epoxy primer to get or use?

thank yall for all yalls help.. its good to have people ot share this kinda info for people that are getting started.. i can paint real real good just having to learn all the paint tech an info is my biggest set back.
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Old 12-12-2012, 02:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stroker52 View Post
ok whats a good epoxy primer to get or use?

thank yall for all yalls help.. its good to have people ot share this kinda info for people that are getting started.. i can paint real real good just having to learn all the paint tech an info is my biggest set back.
With respect to epoxy primers, all paint manufacturers make an epoxy primer...It's never a bad idea to stick with one manufacturer's "system"..primer and top coat. Very often personal preference comes into play. I prefer to use PPG's DP line of epoxy...(I used to be a paint rep for PPG so I may be biased). That being said, it is an excellent product but it doesn't sand well at all and the DP epoxy primer needs to be top coated within 72 hours with a 2K primer. PPG does make a sandable epoxy in the Essential line that does have good hold out as well as good sanding qualities.

Many people on this site swear by a product produced by SPI out of PA, I have never used it but have heard that they are getting great results. Another epoxy that does sand well is a product sold by Summit.

I could PM several others on this site and get part numbers and availability for you, to make your painting life easier.

If you need more information, (like part numbers) let me know.

Ray
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Old 12-12-2012, 03:16 AM
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the 2k primer im using is omni mp282 so i guess staying with the line of PPG i would need something by PPG so if you have a part number that would be awesome..

as soon as i get done with my body work i plain to epoxy and 2k prime it all in one day then block it out after the truck is back together. but my base and clear is dupont ive been told i will be fine putting the bas over the primer.
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Old 12-12-2012, 06:53 AM
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So, if you are staying with PPG, here are some part numbers for you...all the epoxy primers are a light grey as MP 282 is a light grey 2K primer.

In the Omni Line
MP 170 Primer
MP 175 Hardner

In the DP Line
DP50LF Primer
DP401LF & DP402LF Hardners, (1 is fast & 1 is slow)

Essential Line
ESU421 3.5 Primer
ESU429 3.5 Hardner

ESU 460 4.6 Primer
ESU 469 4.6 Hardner

The 3.5 and the 4.6 numbers in the Essential line are VOC compatible numbers. In Canada we can only use the 3.5 primer...They both work well. The Essential product is less expensive than the DP line BUT may be difficult to get at just any PPG Jobber as this is considered fleet paint and not all PPG jobber's carry it. The DP line would be carried by any Jobber that sells automotive refinish products. The Omni line should be the least expensive of all.

Once you have your vehicle in final prep you would be fine to put Dupont's base and clear over top...it won't hurt.

Hope this is what you where looking for...there are more epoxy primers in the PPG line up.

Ray
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Old 12-13-2012, 08:57 PM
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man i thank you for all your help.. i got all the stuff coming in the DP line.
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Old 12-13-2012, 09:03 PM
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Your more than welcome and hope all the advice helps...if you need any more information you can PM me and I will help you any way I can.

Best of luck and don't be afraid to ask.

Ray
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Old 12-13-2012, 09:04 PM
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Please keep me informed as to how your project is going.

Ray
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Old 12-13-2012, 09:10 PM
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here is a picture of the firewall and the rendering of what its going to look like when done.. will have the yenko strips kinda a throw back but a new age muscle truck.. will have a LS motor also..



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Old 12-13-2012, 09:17 PM
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That's gorgeous my friend, I love the work on the firewall, I can see you've got a few hours into that. I can see by your rendering that the truck is going to be lowered, what have you done to the suspension? Are you doing all the paint work yourself? What color are you using? PPG has some awesome Vibrance colors that would make that green really pop...but...they are expensive.

I know I'm asking more questions than a school girl getting ready for her first date, but, I love the look.

Ray
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Old 12-13-2012, 09:33 PM
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lol haha.. yeah i got a few hours in the firewall and still have a few more. the truck is going to be on aire ride all by accuair really nice stuff. the rear of the truck is a 3 link. im getting the truck in to primer ready to be blocked out then letting a buddy thats a custom painter do his work. i can do it but dont have a place to paint a complete truck.

the color is the factory 1998 green U177B but i was thinking about putting a pear over the green just not sure yet. i was going to keep the vortec V6 in the truck but changed my mine and going LS.. now i have a killer show motor just setting lol




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