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Old 05-08-2013, 11:16 AM
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Painting, overspray mess

I am painting my 83 Subaru like the General Lee. I bought the car for 100 bucks and I am putting way too much effort into this. Whatever. Anyway, I usually spray JDBB on EVERYTHING. All other painting I've done has been Imron in a Paint booth or SEM trim paint. Or Rustoleum I thinned out 1 to1 with Acetone and sprayed through a devilbiss onto the Subaru in November. I used Rustoleum out of can, gloss white. It was a white cloud of death. I taped about 2 feet around where I was painting the 01. Noticed when I was done the overspray. Nothing I could do, had to go to work. Because the car was so dirty most of paint is coming off. However I want it all gone. I am worried about using acetone or reducer to whisk it off. Worried it will damage the paint underneath. What are my options?
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Old 05-08-2013, 11:45 AM
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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
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I can't quite grasp what over spray is on what paint but generally the very first thing I go for in any circumstance is the clay bar. It makes most anything else look stupid and doesn't damage most any smooth surface.

Brian
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Old 05-08-2013, 12:53 PM
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yeah, i would try the clay bar first. clean the car first and make sure there's no dust. then get a water and dishwasher soap mix and use it as a lubricant. some people might even suggest what the manufacture suggests as a lubricant. what color is this car? if it's a darkie than you need to be extra careful of creating swirls and micro scratches. this can be created by the overspray itself built up on the claybar, or a dirty clay bar or car.
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Old 05-09-2013, 02:44 PM
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ended up sanding with 1200 and cutting and buffing. Taped off more this time. Didn't spend enough time with the scotch brite and I ran like a trackstar on the 3rd coat
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Old 05-09-2013, 08:12 PM
put up or shut up
 

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prepping isn't why it ran on you. Most likely flash times. I'm not sure how many other people do this but I was taught to spray with more peel on your first coat, less on your second, and bling bling for the last coat. The peel and lighter coat will kick better between flashes and that along with the peel will hold up your next coat better. Long flash times are good in my opinion. Just using a scotch brite isn't enough in my opinion. I like sanding with 1000-1200 AND use a scotch brite over that.
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Old 05-10-2013, 11:56 AM
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?1200 to hold paint? I'm thinking 600 or so to hold paint is the max. 1000 1200 is for buffing right? I did a transparent 1st coat, super light, fogged it. Then I did another light coat, filled color. Then i hit it hard. I wait for the paint to stop leaving color on my hand, but still sticky.. Maybe I am used to JDBB, Imron, but Rustoleum is ticking me off.
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Old 05-10-2013, 01:30 PM
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sorry, I meant "clearcoat". I was under the impression you just recleared after finding something when buffing. 600 is great to finish but I think you get the most out of a 600 scratch with a metallic. the sanding scratches are like little tracks for the metallic to lay in and if those tracks are too big it can affect the overall look. Not noticeable so much on a solid color, but does make things look a tad sharper or crisper.
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Old 05-10-2013, 10:26 PM
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I dont think the rustoleum is in the same league as the other stuff you have been using...but , my experience with rustoleum is that it is sensitive to mixture proportions and going on too heavy, or too soon......or too late!....

there is a narrow sweet spot with it.....Its an old school enamel, so dries differently than a newer more modern type of paint.


jmo


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