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Old 03-05-2012, 05:45 PM
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Well

All I can say is I'm grateful for help.

I posted a link to a YouTube video showing how decals under clear coat can easily be removed from a painted metal fuel tank. I'm wondering if the same procedure could be used to remove the decals on my plastic parts.

Also, someone told me yesterday that if I used a flat paint I would still have to use a satin clear coat to protect the tank parts where my legs touch or else the paint would wear.

I was thinking any type of black would look good - flat, semi-gloss (satin?) or heavy gloss. The wheels are shiny black but many of the plastic pieces on the machine have a flat black color molded in.

My number one goal is to avoid screwing this up. I can purchase new panels that are already colored but dang, that's expen$ive - ouch.

Thanks

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Old 03-05-2012, 06:15 PM
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I'm sorry, I mentioned the satin clear calling it "matt clear" of course "Matte" maybe would have caught your eye. Yes, you have to use the matte or satin clear (same thing, you say tomato I say tomAto) or the gas will mark the flat finish.

Yes you could remove the stickers the same way. Being careful not to cut thru the paint under it, that would be the key.




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Old 03-05-2012, 08:29 PM
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I think it will help if I take the plastic panels off my machine and photograph them next to a yard stick, or something to provide size reference.

That way y'all may have a better idea what I'm dealing with.

One plastic part is blue and has no stickers.

The other five parts are white, and all have stickers. Is it possible these white parts are just clear coat on top of white plastic (no paint)?

From what I can tell, all the stickers/decals are "under" some sort of clear coat.

I have to keep reminding myself that eventually I'll be painting on paint not plastic. That's a strange concept for someone like me who's new to this stuff.

Thanks

Took it to the mountains yesterday - it performed flawlessly.
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Old 03-05-2012, 09:01 PM
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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shredder
I have to keep reminding myself that eventually I'll be painting on paint not plastic. That's a strange concept for someone like me who's new to this stuff.

Thanks

Took it to the mountains yesterday - it performed flawlessly.
This all depends on if you remove the stripes, and while sanding you cut thru the paint. And yes they are typically painted over the plastic. I have only done a few and my no means an expert at motorcycles but from what I have seen they are painted plastic and no difference than the zillions of plastic car parts that I have painted.


But if you sand thru the paint and clear then you will need to put some primer over that plastic before you paint. Anyway you look at it, it's no big deal.

Brian
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Old 03-06-2012, 05:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR
Anyway you look at it, it's no big deal.

Brian
Brian
Well, with the advice I've received here my confidence level is increasing that this project will turn out well.

Many thanks!
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Old 03-07-2012, 10:20 AM
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Paint plastic parts

I am eventually going to take the fiberglass tops off the '78 Westy. What grit sandpaper should I use to smooth 34 years of accumulated crap off the shell. What is a good type of paint the will make the top "pop" when I put it back on the bus?

Thanks,

Bob
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Old 03-07-2012, 11:06 AM
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You should clean the parts down to the base plastic. I don't want to start anything here, but Brian is right about WD-40. Why don't you check with anybody who paints for a living and see if they even allow a can of WD-40 in their shop?
Any glue residue from a decal can be removed with mineral spirits or Xylol. Plastic parts can also be painted with products intended for plastic, and should include an adhesion promoter to draw the color into the plastic. Check out SEM products. CLICK HERE They have coatings in aerosol form that will give you a perfect outcome on plastic.


Quote:
Originally Posted by snydski
Build up of paint causes shelling or chipping I say Strip it . The use of toluene paint thinner will blister the clear coat after a few seconds, and then can be scraped off with razor blade , if you don't get it the first time do it again you will definitely feel the paint getting soft . It is less caustic than paint remover which will work , but might melt the plastic . Then take a heat gun to the decal or use the "Wonder Wheel" as seen on TV to remove the decal. Remove any residue with W-D 40 and wipe with denatured alcohol. I would use a "Two Part" catalyzed polyurethane and retarder with recommended thinner most likely methyl ethyl ketone , but not too thin this paint is made for .0003 mils a coat , , wet coats that are applied with a HVLP (High volume low pressure) sprayer which works well with smaller compressors and these paints don't need a clear coat but they must be mixed well and strained . If you live by a Marina these coating are used for boats and bath tubs and even tile the other stuff can be got at lowes. The mix that worked for me was 2 part base to 1 part catalyst and thinned 25% by volume not weight . paint takes hours to dry and 3 days to cure but it cures long after that.
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Old 03-07-2012, 11:43 AM
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Check out this thread on WD-40. CLICK HERE
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Old 03-07-2012, 07:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanTwoLakes
You should clean the parts down to the base plastic.
. . . Any glue residue from a decal can be removed with mineral spirits or Xylol. Plastic parts can also be painted with products intended for plastic, and should include an adhesion promoter to draw the color into the plastic. Check out SEM products. . . . They have coatings in aerosol form that will give you a perfect outcome on plastic.
Really appreciate the advice.

Because of my lack of experience I might either take these to a pro or buy new parts and sell my originals --> LINK

It's a new machine and I don't want to screw it up - and I have a gift for screwing things up.
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Old 03-08-2012, 03:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snydski
The wd 40 removes the decal residue If you don't like my advise block me ya pimple! but why go tho other peoples threads to tell them how you feel ? when you get contact me strait . kinda like a dog that only barks when the gates are closed , and can only squat when it's open. I'm not the only one you do it to! I saw you last night in action.
WD-40 is propane (oil) oil and paint DO NOT MIX.
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Old 03-08-2012, 04:24 PM
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Exactly. WD-40 is petroleum (oil) based, and the paint will fail. On top of that, WD-40 penetrates, and even if it seems dry it can still be active and ruin a paint job. I know pro painters that won't even let a can of it inside their shops.
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Old 03-08-2012, 04:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanTwoLakes
Exactly. WD-40 is petroleum (oil) based, and the paint will fail. On top of that, WD-40 penetrates, and even if it seems dry it can still be active and ruin a paint job. I know pro painters that won't even let a can of it inside their shops.
And this is why I was snide in my response, I should have stepped back and been more tactful. But it is SUCH bad advice I wouldn't want the newbe to think it is gospel and I didn't want to wait a minute just in case someone came along and tried it.

And again I am sorry I was such a smart ars, know me for a while and you will see I can be one often, but come back to my senses.

Brian
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Old 03-08-2012, 04:34 PM
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Your good advice far outweighs your negatives, Brian. You were dead right in the first place, and we all get snarky once in a while. My snarkiness is usually caused by Canadian Club.............
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Old 03-09-2012, 04:30 PM
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My snarkiness is usually caused by Canadian Club.............
My snarkiness is typically weed induced (by prescription, of course).
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Old 03-09-2012, 08:19 PM
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You mean stuff like crabgrass and nettles, right?
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