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Old 11-21-2005, 10:23 PM
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painting a used fender a different color

I recently discovered this forum and find it very useful.

I am attempting to fix some minor damage. Essentially, I'm replacing a fender and other parts. I have acquired a used fender in very good condition.

My painting experience is limited but I have acheived some spray gun success in the past.

The replacement fender is clear coated read (factory paint). I need to paint it clear coated white.

Do I just need to wet sand it or wet sand it until the clear coat is gone?

Should I use a sealer or not?

If the end result is not as smooth as desired, can the clear be "color sanded" like single stage solid colors?

I can get Dupont Nason paint locally, but there are still several options of that available. Is there anyone that is best?

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Old 11-21-2005, 11:11 PM
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I would take some 280 grit on a da sander and sand until there is no more shiny spots. Then take red scoth brite pad and scuff entire fender. Blow off good and clean with DX 330 or what ever product you have. Seal the fender then after flash time start base coat then clear coat.

Next day if you need to sand and buff wetsand with 1500-2000 grit wet - dry sandpaper then buff and polish.
I use PPG products but they are all good if used correctly.
GOOD LUCK have any problems let me know
Later 70 runner
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Old 11-22-2005, 03:54 AM
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You did not state what vehicle you are working on, so the answers are going to be generic. Using the Nason paint is not really a bad thing, except... You said that you will need to paint it white. Keep in mind that white, often is not really WHITE. I would take the car, or atleast a part of it with good paint on it, to the jobber and ask them to "color match" it. They have a "camera" device that can "read" the color for the proper color code variance. Sometimes, with Nason, it will be difficult to get a real good match, specially if you are only painting a panel, like a fender, and white is a hard color to match.

As far as prep, painting, and buffing, I would follow the previous post. I usually don't recommend "sealer", but with a used panel that is not being stripped, it isn't a bad idea. Just make sure you follow the directions.

Aaron
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Old 11-22-2005, 09:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adtkart
. I would take the car, or atleast a part of it with good paint on it, to the jobber and ask them to "color match" it.
Aaron
That's great advice and exactly what I do.
I usually take the gas cap door with me, also the vin number on 1996
and newer cars tells my DuPont supplier what alternate it is.
So I do both and let him figure it out.
But even if you get a good color match usually to make it look
unnoticeable you have to blend some of the new color into the
adjoining panel and clear it all. Painting to an edge to an existing
painted panel is most noticed.
If it's factory paint I usually just sand and paint it without the sealer
coat, but that's a personal option.
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Old 11-22-2005, 12:33 PM
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I'm curious as to what the fender will look like after it's DA'd with 280 and JUST a sealer then Nason paint.

Guess if it's a beater,it sould match fine.

DA's are fine IF you know HOW to use one but I SEE this turning out BAD.
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Old 11-23-2005, 12:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bee4Me
I'm curious as to what the fender will look like after it's DA'd with 280 and JUST a sealer then Nason paint.

Guess if it's a beater,it sould match fine.

DA's are fine IF you know HOW to use one but I SEE this turning out BAD.
Well now you got me curious how you prep your body panels? The fender will look great!! This is how i prep all my new and used body panels been doing this way for 20 years. Now if this fender is going on a restoration then the fender would have to be stripped to bare metal. then epoxied , spray able polyester filler, block sand 80-180 grit, prime with high build, block sand 220 grit block sand 400 grit block sand 600 grit. Seal fender, spray 2-3 coats of base, let dry good wet sand with 600 grit on a BLOCK spray 3 more coats of base.Spray 3 coats of clear, dry overnight, wetsand with a BLOCK using 600-800 grit. Spray 2-3 more coats of clear. Let dry wetsand using a BLOCK with 1000-1500-2000 buff up then polish.

Using a da to do putty work takes some practice, but anyone can sand a fender with 280 grit and not have a problem that is why you are sealing the fender in case you get sand throe's.

70 runner
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Old 11-23-2005, 03:53 AM
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I personally like to use 320 instead of 280, but that is my preference. Using 280 then sealer should not cause a problem. As for the blending, I have to agree that it will definately help as far as color match. I didn't mention that because I understood that the only part they wanted to paint was the fender. If I am replacing a fender, I usually take it to have the color match. That isn't a problem if it is one of the smaller vehicles. It could be a big hassle if it is a larger one. The idea of using a fuel door is a good one. Also the vin helps them with Fords too. When I got the paint for my daughter's Mustang, they used the vin also. Somehow, they put in the computer the vin and the info from the camera thing, and code off of the vehicle. The computer told them what the correct color was to mix.

Got to love the newer technology, when it works.

Aaron
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Old 06-21-2014, 06:14 PM
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Fender

Mine is a 97 gmc sierra 2door the fender is purple want to paint it brite blue metallic how do I go about it
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Old 06-21-2014, 07:12 PM
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Just follow what was shown in this thread.. Should work fine.. On the blue that will be hard to get a good blend as if you are off even a shade it will show different than the rest of it so you may need to do a spray card and adjust your mix to get a good blend..I would shoot a sealer if I am using the blue..

Sam
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Old 06-22-2014, 07:11 AM
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Why do guys go to all the trouble to strip a panel and then poly prime AND high build primer ? Thats a LOT of extra work just to end up with something twice as thick as you started off with....strip to bare metal and epoxy,thats it, my god man.......what a waste of time and money....especially on a restoration...
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Old 06-23-2014, 03:08 AM
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Originally Posted by deadbodyman View Post
Why do guys go to all the trouble to strip a panel and then poly prime AND high build primer ? Thats a LOT of extra work just to end up with something twice as thick as you started off with....strip to bare metal and epoxy,thats it, my god man.......what a waste of time and money....especially on a restoration...
x2... Exactly Mike ! On the restorations I did when I worked in body shops, was DA the old paint off the used part with #8o grit, epoxy prime, and guide coat it for final wetsanding when ready to paint.
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Old 06-23-2014, 07:41 AM
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I do my share of stripping with the DA and the mudd hog, when theres only one panel and I hate it...I started stripping a fender yesterday with 80 and gave up ....chem stripping is not only much faster it wont distort your body lines or heat up the panel and warp it...since the camaro Im working on has no lines I figured what the heck but the epoxy is really on there and it takes twice as long to sand it off..although I've watched guys try to use the chem strip and just make a god awful mess of everything.... its fairly ez and no mess for me because I've been using it many,many years...Its like watching someone mix bondo for the first time...
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Old 06-24-2014, 04:35 AM
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I do my share of stripping with the DA and the mudd hog, when theres only one panel and I hate it...I started stripping a fender yesterday with 80 and gave up ....chem stripping is not only much faster it wont distort your body lines or heat up the panel and warp it...since the camaro Im working on has no lines I figured what the heck but the epoxy is really on there and it takes twice as long to sand it off..although I've watched guys try to use the chem strip and just make a god awful mess of everything.... its fairly ez and no mess for me because I've been using it many,many years...Its like watching someone mix bondo for the first time...
Once again I agree, but I haven't worked in a shop for about 10 years. Most of the old stuff I worked on was built & painted when all the factories used was basically just e-coat & single stage paint. You have to make your decisions based on what you know you have. Rick
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Old 08-11-2014, 08:06 PM
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Thank you guys strip down to bare metal primed and painted looks pretty good for the first time doing it ,the clear coat didn't turn out the way l hope but over all really good thanks for the help
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