Paitning Your Inner Engine With "GLYPTAL PAINT" - Page 2 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 12-21-2011, 06:20 PM
How fast is fast enough?
 
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there is a lot of bad information here. if anyone reads this thread just ignore what you see, and do your homework.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 12-21-2011, 07:09 PM
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I used the Glyptal in my JS motor. SBC mounted flywheel forward 12 degree tilt, with oil pickup in the damper end, oil control is very important. We only hold 6 qts or so and depend on that oil flowing back to the pan. I radiused the oil returns in both the block and the heads. Heads were painted also. I know this is an old thread but it needed reposting.
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Old 12-21-2011, 07:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 396375
Hands please.How many guys have lost a motor due to some unforeseen grit?
Hands please, how many of those who did, didn't wash, scrub, brush and rod out their motors properly after the machine shop work....?
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 12-21-2011, 08:06 PM
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Good grief, but these oldies do reappear. My one and only post on this thread was in Aug 2006
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Old 12-21-2011, 08:19 PM
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Quote:
Hands please.How many guys have lost a motor due to some unforeseen grit?
As the previous poster said,

Quote:
who did, didn't wash, scrub, brush and rod out their motors properly after the machine shop work.
That's the idea, in the days Long Past, the machine shops had a Huge container of Highly Caustic and High Temperature Solution, called "The Vat"

Now days you have to be inventive and come up with your own methods of cleaning engine blocks.

An old engine machinist years ago said,
Quote:
When you clean an engine or heads, you have to get the metal Hot, I mean REAL HOT, immersed in strong stuff,otherwise the honing girt will stay in the pores of the cast iron.
Sure we all think we do a great job cleaning, it takes some stuff like TriSodiumPhosphate or a watered down mix of Red Devil Lye to get near the strength of the stuff used back when.

Ever notice that today, "rebuilt" engines in a Mom & Pop type car just don't last like a factory engine?

The factory can use a CNC machine and get to tolerances that we at home have to use a "Cylinder Hone" to get proper piston to wall clearances.

Next engine you build, after it's been cleaned, take some brake cleaner and spray the cylinder walls and see if some grey dust don't come out!

Not gonna point fingers here as a N00b I'd better not, however much "general" knowledge can be gained by reading, here's 3 that I've read in the past and found some good info;

Smokey Yunick's "Power Secrets"
HP books How To Hotrod [insert your Make] Book
Engine Blueprinting
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 12-21-2011, 08:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Irelands child
Good grief, but these oldies do reappear. My one and only post on this thread was in Aug 2006
I know! I did an edit yesterday on a resurrected thread from 2003.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 12-21-2011, 10:35 PM
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Well I ran the block hone and wash line at Int'l Diesel Huntsville. These went thru a wash cycle of about 30 minutes in a hot wash that the water was filtered thru 5 micron filters....big, big ones changed every 4 hours. When the dry block came out it you could take a white tissue to the bores and safely wipe your behind with it. The blocks were then conveyed thru a covered enclosure until the assembly began. No dirt anywhere. The guys on the assembly line didn't even get dirty working.

The cranks, heads and all other internal parts had similar wash and dry cycles somewhere in their assembly. We had unlimited supplies of various gloves and gauntlets to use. Even the overall plant was cleaner than most homes. Not many people got sick there either.

How clean is your clean room??

I use more soap and hot water cleaning motor, trans, and rear end parts than I do for washing clothes. haha

Painting the inside of the motor ranks up there with "if it don't go chrome it..."

Show me the data where more hp was made with "gut" painted motors.
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Old 12-22-2011, 09:24 AM
How fast is fast enough?
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bentwings
Show me the data where more hp was made with "gut" painted motors.
There is none. Its not worth anything more than cosmetics, but if someone wants to have an engine that has a red, green, gray, or gold inside I have no problem with it as long as they don't claim any magic in it.



I'm surprised no one has talked about the 25hp gain from painting the right half of the block internals red and the left half blue, it increases cooling by a bajillion percent and triples the viscoflowhesion properties of the oil. I also strengthens the iron by 15% but that's a minor benefit...
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Old 12-22-2011, 08:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bentwings

Painting the inside of the motor ranks up there with "if it don't go chrome it..."

Show me the data where more hp was made with "gut" painted motors.
No magic here, its all about oil control, and getting it back to the pan. If it's good enough for Smokey it's good enough for me.
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Old 12-22-2011, 10:49 PM
How fast is fast enough?
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richiehd
No magic here, its all about oil control, and getting it back to the pan. If it's good enough for Smokey it's good enough for me.

Ok, so exactly what is it that you think it does for oil? Besides creating a thermal barrier.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 12-23-2011, 12:50 AM
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Although there are few benefits to using glyptol paint anywhere inside an engine and few if any negatives if applied properly there is one big benefit if you race and tear an engine down often.

Its a lot easier to clean and keep clean while disassembled, probably why Smokey used it...he was a practical guy.

If you ever tried to wipe off a smudge of grunge off a bare casting with a shop towel before you know its impossible to do it without tearing fibers off the rag...try and get that stuff off! Bare cast iron is like velcro to a rag.

If a layer of paint is causing cooling issues you have bigger problems than a layer of paint to deal with, it has its place like most old wives tales that get distorted as though they are magic in some way.

Kinda like the battery on concrete wives tale...not really dumb when you consider at one time batteries weighed a hundred pounds and had glass cases. Try and put that down carefully while greasy on concrete without dropping it or cracking it.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 12-23-2011, 06:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4 Jaw Chuck
If a layer of paint is causing cooling issues you have bigger problems than a layer of paint to deal with, it has its place like most old wives tales that get distorted as though they are magic in some way.
Like 4 jaw said, the thermal barrier is minimal compared to the advantage you get by smoothing the oil passages. In our skiff application oil control is the key because we are limited as to how deep we can make that pan.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 12-23-2011, 08:38 AM
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Not much to add here; other than New Process Gear used to paint the inside of their transfercase halves with Glyptal. I don't think a huge company like NPG would invest in that on a production schedule unless there was some benefit somewhere.
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Old 12-23-2011, 10:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ap72
Ok, so exactly what is it that you think it does for oil? Besides creating a thermal barrier.
I was thinking about using it in the valley of my BBC because im running a old school flat tappet cam
thinkig it will get the oil from the heads down to the cam faster, needing all the help i can get to keep the cam oiled
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 12-23-2011, 11:38 AM
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Couldn't the same basic benefit be gained by simply enlarging the oil drainback holes?

My concern would be that unless the paint has the exact same coefficient of thermal expansion as the metal the block is made of, eventually, no matter how clean it was and how carefully the paint was applied, it will at some point in the future begin to crack and flake off into your engine...

I guess for me I don't see the potential benefits outweighing the potential negatives on this one....

Last edited by MJS69; 12-23-2011 at 11:51 AM.
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