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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 01-14-2006, 11:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrcleanr6
what i have done in the past was epoxy prime the lip of the wheel well where it meets the inside of the quarter then also epoxy prime the quarter in the same area. i then use 3m urethane window adhesive, load up the quarter. push it together until it oozez out, scrape off the excess and your sealed and bonded.
Jim, for years I installed doorskins this way, using urethane window adhesive and also urethane sealer/adhesive with the only welding done on the ends near the hinges and latch areas. The urethane bonds and seals really well and does stay flexible. I agree, there's many ways to skin a cat. Bob

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Old 01-15-2006, 02:50 PM
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I sure hope you guys keep those vehicles close to home. Our customers are very well trained. They can repeatedly tear up a vehicle the same way, time and again. We have had them re-wreck them the same day they get them back. I hate the thought of having to cut thru that for a future repair.
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Old 01-16-2006, 12:50 PM
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Another Bonding/Welding Question

If the panel is bonded only, is there an offset flange on one of the panels, new or old, used as an area for the bonding agent to go on? Do you make a flange with a tool or does the new panel already have a flange? If welding destroys the bonding agent, does that mean you leave a space between the bonded area and the welded area so there is no problem with the heat from welding? What do you do with this "area"? filler or ???. Thanks .
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Old 01-16-2006, 05:22 PM
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The areas where structural adhesive is commonly used are inside flanges that would normally be welded and called "pinch welds", and inside the hammered over flange of door skins. There is no visible gap in these cases, and any discontinuity in sealing would be handled by seam sealer just before paint.
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Old 01-18-2006, 01:20 PM
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hi guys,about panel adhesive,most of them are ok,but take 2 pieces of metal with the adhesive and try to pull them apart in shear,and you will find they are no good. the only good one i have ever found is 3 M 5200...home depot sells it. it will work with painted or bare metal.best is if you can clamp it. it takes 2 or 3 days to really set up...but I guarantee you will never pull the repair apart. its waterproof too. its a kind of caulk...but ive been in the fiberglass boat repair business for over 30 years and ive never had a problem with it.you clean the excess off with acetone.
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Old 01-18-2006, 02:46 PM
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As for welding around it, it strinks to high heaven when it burns. I suggest not doing it. Probably not healthy either.
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Old 01-18-2006, 03:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texczech
If the panel is bonded only, is there an offset flange on one of the panels, new or old, used as an area for the bonding agent to go on? Do you make a flange with a tool or does the new panel already have a flange? If welding destroys the bonding agent, does that mean you leave a space between the bonded area and the welded area so there is no problem with the heat from welding? What do you do with this "area"? filler or ???. Thanks .

You can do partial panel replacment, patch panel work with adhesives, go to Lord Fusor's website for some excellent info/instructions on these proceedures.----------

http://www.lordfulfillment.com/upload/RP3006.pdf
http://www.lordfulfillment.com/upload/RP3005.pdf

http://www.lord.com/Default.aspx?tabid=1149&pid=5
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Old 01-18-2006, 07:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boatbob2
hi guys,about panel adhesive,most of them are ok,but take 2 pieces of metal with the adhesive and try to pull them apart in shear,and you will find they are no good. the only good one i have ever found is 3 M 5200...home depot sells it. it will work with painted or bare metal.best is if you can clamp it. it takes 2 or 3 days to really set up...but I guarantee you will never pull the repair apart. its waterproof too. its a kind of caulk...but ive been in the fiberglass boat repair business for over 30 years and ive never had a problem with it.you clean the excess off with acetone.

i have spent alot of years working in the marine industry too and 5200 is great stuff. its the same thing as the window adhesive i mentioned above. basically urethane caulking.
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