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Old 01-10-2006, 05:38 PM
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panel adhesive

I want to use panel adhesive on the wheel well section of a quarter panel install (bonding outer wheel well to quarter panel). I would like to keep the steel primed in this area if possible (lots of road water in this area) and wondered if someone could recommend a good panel adhesive out there that bonds primed metal? Most of the ones (Fusor brand) Ive looked at want clean bare metal for bonding.....or Is the bare metal kind better and will seal the clean bonded metal portion well enough on its own? Anyone have an example of what they did or have any advice on how I should go about the bonding process in the wheel well area? THanks.

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Old 01-10-2006, 06:03 PM
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All of the panel adhesive that I have seen or used requires clean bare metal to get a good bond. You can prime it or undercoat it after it has cured.
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Old 01-10-2006, 06:21 PM
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I've always used fusor for patch panel adhesive.. but you have to have it bare, and i believe they are all that way.
What i normally would do in a situation like yours would be to grind the area that will be fuse'd together and use something like a medium so you have a little time.. and put the fusor on each panel so that way the fusor covers all of the area that would be bare.. that way if there is a exposed spot it will be covered with glue and therefore should be sealed.. then prime and use a 2-part seam sealer, and you should be as sealed as you can be...
on a side note a 3M rep stopped by the other day trying to promote his goods and he said that the duramix has a built in corrosion protection, but either way.. if you use the fusor and do as i said above you should be golden..
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Old 01-10-2006, 08:50 PM
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A lot of those panel adhesives are epoxy, so if you make sure to cover the entire bare area by spreading the initial bead of adhesive around with a brush, you'll have a good durable seal on the metal. Just think of it as extra thick primer!
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Old 01-10-2006, 09:07 PM
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I agree, spread a thin coat to completely cover all bare metal areas within the seam then lay down a good bead and put it together, the excess will squish out. If you're using fusor be prepared, when the product fully cures there will still be a tacky coating on it's surface and this is normal. i usually just take a rag with some lacquer thinner and wipe the coating off. The excess can then be sanded, wirewheeled, or ground off. Avoid using any heat near your bond, heat is adhesive's only enemy. Fusor is top of the line IMO. Bob
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Old 01-10-2006, 09:17 PM
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Great advice and tips everyone.....good to hear that guys like the Fusor stuff too since that is what I was planning to buy. To clamp the metal for curing, can I just use bunch of vise grip pliers placed at spaced intervals around the wheel well or is there a special method? I think I was reading about the Duramix and Automix products and it claimed there was an ingredient in the adhesive that helped cushion the clamping process?
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Old 01-10-2006, 09:36 PM
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visegrips, c-clamps, or anything that'll hold it together with some pressure. Most of the adhesives have glass spheres in them so it can only be squished so much. Lifetime warranty. Just make sure your bond area is ground clean. The only failures I've ever seen with adhesives (2) were the result of poor prep with an unclean surface. You can spray the backside of your seams with a cavity wax like 3M's rustfighter for extra insurance against moisture. Bob
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Old 01-11-2006, 09:20 PM
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with fusor,, there's part #'s like 110b and 108b, the b stands for bondline control... that means you can't over clamp it.. it's got the little beads that will keep it uniform thickness when clamped down... and from what i remember the 110 is fast and 108 is the medium.. i usually use the medium.. and I just used it a few days ago.. goood luck 2 ya
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Old 01-12-2006, 07:52 PM
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what i have done in the past was epoxy prime the lip of the wheel well where it meets the inside of the quarter then also epoxy prime the quarter in the same area. i then use 3m urethane window adhesive, load up the quarter. push it together until it oozez out, scrape off the excess and your sealed and bonded.
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Old 01-12-2006, 08:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrcleanr6
what i have done in the past was epoxy prime the lip of the wheel well where it meets the inside of the quarter then also epoxy prime the quarter in the same area. i then use 3m urethane window adhesive, load up the quarter. push it together until it oozez out, scrape off the excess and your sealed and bonded.
\\


SO what your saying is that you put the panel on with W/S urethane?? On top of a product not designed to be used with it??

Well, it won't rust...
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Old 01-12-2006, 09:13 PM
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darn right!! it wont rust, leak and it wont come off either. it is usually recommended that window urethane go on top of epoxy. how do you normally install your windshields? i know you dont grind the flange to bare metal and bond to that. the window channel should be coated with epoxy primer when the rest of the car is sprayed, right?
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Old 01-12-2006, 09:15 PM
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Although windshield urethane isn't really made for putting on panels, it does have one heck of a bond. If you ever tried cutting out a winshield, it is some tough stuff. At one shop I was at they used It to put on side moldings and stuff. Don't know why he didn't use tape, maybe he didn't want us to spend time cleaning the backs of the moldings. Sure made it tough to get one back off later. Windshields are a structural part on unibody cars, and the pinchweld is primed. I know its not what windshield urethane is made for, but why wouldn't it work for a non structural panel if it holds in windshields. I know with the panel adhesives, it is still recommended to put a few spot welds on large panels due to it having good strength in one direction but not another. I know the standard procedure is to grind to baremetal for the adhesive, and wipe it over the exposed metal to seal, but I replaced a fiberglass fender piece the other day with smc and fiberglass panel adhesive, and from the factory had the adhesive right over paint on most of it, so wonder why they don't say bare metal or epoxy prime. Think it would stick well to it, epoxy is basically a glue and aren't many of the adhesives epoxy based? . This was on an international truck.
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Old 01-12-2006, 09:36 PM
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dont misunderstand. i am not saying to install the whole quarter with it. it should be welded in but around where it seals to the wheel well is fine. you definately arent going to break the bond thats for sure. urethane caulking same as window adhesive, but white, is used heavily in the marine industry for bonding all kinds of things both structural and non structural. on fiberglass you will get substrate failure before the bond breaks. its some strong stuff and bonds to just about anything.
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Old 01-13-2006, 06:41 AM
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Adhesive & Welding

When using panel adhesive and welding(for strength), if the welding is done after the adhesive is applied and cured, what does this heat do the the adhesive bond? Is there a chance of fire? I am assuming that the tack welding is done after the adhesive is applied. Thanks.
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Old 01-13-2006, 02:42 PM
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No, the welding is usually done while the adhesive is curing, and cannot be done too close to where the adhesive is. I stay a minimum of 2" away. Cured or not cured, weld heat will destroy the adhesive in a small area and the bond in an even larger area
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