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Old 05-13-2009, 08:31 AM
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Panel adhesive question.

I'm new to using panel adhesive and have a couple quick questions I'm hoping a few of you can answer. The first question; I know you screw the panel in place while the glue dries. But once the glue is dry and you take the screws out,how do you fill the screw holes? And what do you use to fill the holes? I'm going to be glueing the cab corners on an 85 Chevy pick-up,which leads me to my second question.I want to replace a section of the rockerpanel about one foot long. If I overlap the rocker with the old metal can I use panel adhesive? Or is this a part of the truck that is best welded on? I've never used this stuff before so any advice would be appreciated. The reason I want to go this route is because I dont have axcess to a good welder at the moment. Mine got stolen and I just dont have the money to replace it right now. Thanks.

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Old 05-13-2009, 11:58 AM
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I use two part epoxy filler for the screw holes. It's waterproof and hard as can be. POR-15 sells some two part epoxy putty that's the bomb diggity.

Adhesive is fine for rocker panel patch replacement. In the instructions that come with the 3M epoxy adhesive I used on my last repair, they showed it as OK to put a whole roof skin on, and a whole quarter panel too, as well as a whole door skin, so you will be A-OK.
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Old 05-14-2009, 06:01 AM
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What brand of adhesive are you using? I'm thinking of using duramix. I already have the gun for that brand. So I'm thinking that would be a decent enough product.
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Old 05-14-2009, 10:42 AM
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3M Duramix is the brand I use. I always get the slowest one, no matter what reapir I'm doing. I don't even have a gun; I push the product out with a dowel or whatever and mix it on a board and apply it with a disposable spreader or paint brush.

Compared to older technology products I've used, the Duramix is easier to adjust the panel during the work time, lots easier.

Remove the screws after it's set real good, but before full cure, or else you'll be grinding them off.

The instructions that came with it says you can weld through the product, which I'm pretty sure was a big no-no with the older products; heat is a sure way to get the older products to fail. So I guess you could weld or solder the holes closed if you wanted, but I have never done this.
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Old 05-15-2009, 07:13 AM
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Thanks a million,Fast Eddie D. I appreciate the advice.
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Old 05-15-2009, 07:59 AM
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I simply wouldn't hold it with screws, use clamps. NONE of the adhesives will hold up to welding. The have "weld thru" recommendations but around the weld the adhesive is destroyed.

You are pushing it with the rockers, not much, but pushing it.

Brian
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Old 05-15-2009, 09:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR
The have "weld thru" recommendations but around the weld the adhesive is destroyed.


Brian

Exactly, the recommendation is for a weld 90 degrees to the adhesive line.
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Old 05-15-2009, 09:35 PM
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I hope I am not high jacking the thread, but this seems to be a good place to ask. And Brian has had several posts on using adhesive instead of welds, so here goes.

My 41 has braces that run from the radiator core support to the underside of the fender. They originally attached to the undersides of the fenders with studs from the chrome spear on the fender top. The fender spears are long gone and I don't want them. I thought about welding a bolt to a fender washer and then welding the fender washer to the underside of the fender. My concern is that if I use rosettes, the stress will show up as dimples in the paint. I don't think I want to run a bead all around the washer.

So, I was thinking about using panel adhesive, gluing and clamping the bolt welded to the washer to the underside of the fender. The warpage to the fender top would be almost non-existent (best laid plans, I figure the clamps will cause some problems). The load would be spread out over a large area which would limit distortions after the install.

Any thoughts?
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