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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 02-17-2012, 06:26 PM
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Panel patch glue.

Does anyone use the panel adhesive to do rust repair patches? I've got a 73 Buick that needs a lot of patches that I'am doing for a guy . Its just going to be a summer time driver not a show car. I'am old school and have always welded my patch work but have used it on some small spots and on 1/4 panel jobs and the stuff seems to work great.I'll post some pictures of what I've got when I get the rest of the car striped. Its pretty ugly in a few spots.
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Old 02-19-2012, 03:33 PM
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I used to ...back when it was about 20.00 a pop,back then it was a bit expensive to use insted of welding....but now at 40.00 ,theres no way I'd use it..plus theres always the possibility of ghost seams. I'll stick with welding ...for someone doing some work that cant afford a welder its something to look into (I guess) but if you have a welder and know basic welding theres nothing better...
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Old 02-19-2012, 03:46 PM
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I shot a few pictures today after I stripped some of the car. This is a 73 buick regal so no panels are made for it and everything will have to be hand made. After doing body work in mn for 40 yrs I've done plenty of that. Some of the spots on this is really ugly though.
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Old 02-19-2012, 08:20 PM
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Wow ,thats pretty rugged,,I gotta 72 caprice in the shop getting a roof put on from a roll over.
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Old 02-20-2012, 10:19 AM
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I'm still experimenting with using panel adhesives. There are cases where using adhesive is good. When a company rep told me they have multi-million dollar product liability coverage, it became acceptable.

To eliminate ghost seams, we use JB-Weld PN-8280. Which is two 5oz tubes.
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Old 02-22-2012, 04:29 PM
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body panel adhesive

most new cars panels are put on with it.
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Old 02-22-2012, 06:26 PM
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Well I got part of it striped and some of the work done . Trunk lid body work done a coat of spi epoxy. Some body work started on fenders and a couple patchs started to weld on. Should have front clip done and in primer tomorrow and the doors pulled. Need to get hinge repair kits and rebuild all the hinges. These things had bad hinges after a year when they were new and this thing is over 30 yrs old. Just went ahead and welded the patches I've got done. Hardest part is building the flairs at lower wheel openings.
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Old 02-22-2012, 08:50 PM
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flairs

guide coat will be your best friend, and so will eastwood.com for tools to get the edges and flares you need.
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Old 02-22-2012, 10:37 PM
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nice work, you will be happy you welded if you keep that car.
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Old 02-24-2012, 06:30 AM
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I got most of the front clip done yesterday. The drivers fender is basically done and last coat of mud on passengers side, a little striping to do to hood and header panel and some small dents to fix then its ready for spi.
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Old 02-24-2012, 12:10 PM
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finished up front and spi epoxy-ed fenders and hood today.
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Old 02-27-2012, 10:33 AM
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I know very little about the SPI epoxy primer, but I thought they recommended to spray it down before doing bodywork. I see from your pics you do your bodywork first, then spray it down. I do my body work in the same process you do. I prefer it done that way. PPG's DP epoxy recommends spraying it down and doing the bodywork over it. I never cared for that process, but I see their point. It just doesn't seem to work for me spraying down epoxy, than mudding over that. Thanks for the post.
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Old 02-27-2012, 11:27 AM
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epoxy

every company is different. Mostly based off of there, warranty if any is given. specially in a business type relationship.
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Old 02-28-2012, 06:29 AM
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I do it both ways. On repair jobs its filler first ,on total strips its epoxy first.Most of my repair jobs dont get any epoxy its straight to 2k after filler.
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Old 02-28-2012, 10:21 AM
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Same here I do it both ways sometimes over filler and sometimes under. This one had so much bodywork to do and most was getting a coat of dura glass before any filler so I didn't go with epoxy frist. I just dont like to put epoxy under dura glass.
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