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Old 06-03-2009, 11:31 AM
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Panel pushed in and no way to get to the back side.

On my car hauler, 95 Chevy 3/4 ton, I hit the rear side of my bed behind the rear tire. I can not see any way to get to the back side of the panel. They do not make the side of the bed to pull off like older ones. Tack welds not just bolts.

How can I straighten the panel?

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Old 06-03-2009, 01:36 PM
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I'm sure one of the Pro's will step in here, but why not use a Stud Puller?

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/pc-1...it-jo1050.aspx

If that won't work (and you absolutely can 't get anything in there), I'd cut out the back Panel, fix the Dent, and re-weld the Panel in-
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Old 06-03-2009, 01:42 PM
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A stud welder is best, but a lot of people still drill small
holes and use a puller with a threaded end on it.
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Old 06-03-2009, 01:45 PM
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I have done the drill holes a long time ago, I didn't care about rust trough. It was a door panel so I was not too worried on that car. I really did not want to do that.

Last edited by PapaG; 06-03-2009 at 01:51 PM.
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Old 06-03-2009, 02:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PapaG
I have done the drill holes a long time ago, I didn't care about rust trough. It was a door panel so I was not too worried on that car. I really did not want to do that.
I read a tip somewhere about replacing the threaded end of your slide hammer with a hook, and then tacking nuts to the panel and using the hook to pull on the nuts. Then when you're done, instead of having holes to weld shut, you just whack off the nut (hopefully you tacked and didn't weld) and grind whatever is left of the weld flat.

I've never done it and I have no idea how it'd work but it's something to consider, especially if you don't want to drill into the panel.
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Old 06-03-2009, 03:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isaac338
I read a tip somewhere about replacing the threaded end of your slide hammer with a hook, and then tacking nuts to the panel and using the hook to pull on the nuts. Then when you're done, instead of having holes to weld shut, you just whack off the nut (hopefully you tacked and didn't weld) and grind whatever is left of the weld flat.

I've never done it and I have no idea how it'd work but it's something to consider, especially if you don't want to drill into the panel.
Hummm.... that's a good idea. My slide hammer happens to have a screw on hook. Might try that before I spend the $$$ on a stud gun.
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Old 06-03-2009, 03:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isaac338
I read a tip somewhere about replacing the threaded end of your slide hammer with a hook, and then tacking nuts to the panel and using the hook to pull on the nuts. Then when you're done, instead of having holes to weld shut, you just whack off the nut (hopefully you tacked and didn't weld) and grind whatever is left of the weld flat.

I've never done it and I have no idea how it'd work but it's something to consider, especially if you don't want to drill into the panel.
Seems like I saw that along time ago, I think it was a long time ago. I wonder what about the paint burnt off the back side of those spots.
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Old 06-03-2009, 08:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PapaG
Seems like I saw that along time ago, I think it was a long time ago. I wonder what about the paint burnt off the back side of those spots.
Either way it's going to be paintless in those spots, since drilling a hole removes metal and welding them shut just adds unpainted metal. Unless I'm crazy, which is entirely possible
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Old 06-03-2009, 09:56 PM
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Pull the taillight and see if you can work it out with a prybar. Is it so bad you can' pull it with a suction cup?
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Old 06-04-2009, 05:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isaac338
I read a tip somewhere about replacing the threaded end of your slide hammer with a hook, and then tacking nuts to the panel and using the hook to pull on the nuts. .
Useing washers may even be better.
My slide hammer came with a hook, and when I first started I drilled holes
to use it. It worked great, only problem was it took holes
about 1/4" big to do it.
They always seem to telegragh through later on, months after the repair.
It was minor and most never noticed it, so I got a stud welder.
I don't have that problem anymore, it was a great investment.
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Old 06-04-2009, 06:58 AM
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I was taught back in the days before they had electricity for stud welders to punch the holes instead of the drill...
The idea is it will draw some metal into the hole to control the oilcan effect (using up some streatched metal) and the screw has more to bite into than drilling when using a drill.

The drll became popular because of the early morning hang overs didn't mix with the hammer and punch.
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Old 06-04-2009, 07:13 AM
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Can ya post a pic of the damage? Would a bath room plunger do anything for it? They make pretty good suction cups these days that have a lot of grip and you might be surprised at what they can do.....
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Old 06-04-2009, 12:35 PM
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I use a slide hammer with a bolt in the end and mig weld the bolt to the panel,just a tack mind,do your pulling then twist and the weld should break off and repeat the process along the dent.
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Old 06-05-2009, 08:50 PM
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Milo:
Seems I remember something like that too. Think of a self taping sheet metal screw. Makes a dimple not a clean hole.
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