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Old 03-22-2010, 07:26 AM
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panhard bar.

i am redoing the rear suspension for my 79 elcamino and i have put coilovers stright up and down with ladder bars. and i ws just woundering how the best way to set up the panhard bar for street use. im just lookin for some pointers.

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Old 03-26-2010, 10:32 AM
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panhard bar

its not hard... u will need a tab welded to the top of the center section and one on the frame. making sure that suspension movement will not hit anything. then make a bar to fit between the tabs. u want the weight of the car on the tires so as to make the rod horiz. if your doing it on your el then u need to make sure u have some meat with the welded parts.. nothing less the 1/4"..and maybe 3" of flat surface on the welded center section.. your tossing some wt around with your car and need some beef to hold it back..
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Old 03-28-2010, 01:58 AM
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If you have much wheel travel you will want a longer Panhard bar than putting it on top of the center section would get you. Behind the axle is a good spot (and where Panhard originally put them) to get a longer bar. Look at rock crawling and stock car (who call it a track bar) sites for brackets to find something that you like.
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Old 11-23-2013, 02:21 PM
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Pan hard bar.

the longer,and more hori. the better/when rears go up/down arc will push/pull rear side to side/do not mount to top center rear housing/unless you like to have the area above rear ventilated with mount and pan hard.if you cant get the desired flat horiz.when mounted with car on its suspension.heat panhard/then bend.to keep it flat across.if not,you will rub inner wheel house one one side/outer fender on opposite side.LONGER THE BAR AND HORIZONTAL/LESS ARC/= MORE STRAIGHT/WAY LESS SIDE TO SIDE MOVEMENT,as for as metal thickness/2-1/8 tabs side by side on rod end both ends/welded right,is plenty.
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Old 11-23-2013, 04:46 PM
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The Panhard bar needs to be as long as possible and the attachment points need to be the same distance from the ground. The bar can be bent or spiraled or twisted whichever way you need it to be in order to miss other components, as long as the two attachment points are equidistant from the ground and the material the bar is made from is stiff enough to take the forces. Fabricate a mount that will weld to the passenger's side of the frame and extend as close as possible to the backing plate at the axle. One the other side of the car, make another mount for the other side of the bar that is on the axle tube and as close to the backing plate as possible. What I'm trying to get you to visualize is the longest possible bar that has mounts equidistant from the ground.

Those fosdick short little bars that mount to the hog will yank the car back and forth on bumpy roads because they are not long enough.

Been there, done that.


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Old 11-23-2013, 05:28 PM
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This one's been discussed before here on the Hotrodders site. Longer is indeed better, but Tech's fosdick comment needs further discussion.

Every GM 2 wheel drive truck built from 1963 through 1972 had a panhard bar that mounted to the frame on the drivers side and attached to the rear axle just passed the rear cover on the passenger side. They work quite well.

Here's a link to a study I did about them: Track Bars, The Short and The Long Of It... - Classic Parts Talk

Hope that helps!
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Old 11-23-2013, 06:39 PM
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Why mount straight uo and down coilover shocks

even factory/most of them,mount in an angle,i mount mine a minimum of 10 percent/will improve travel.if your going to mount your shocks straight up/use a track locator bar,not a panhard bar.
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Old 11-23-2013, 09:03 PM
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You will not have any problems mounting your coilovers stright up and down... I been doing this for years and will work just fine...

You do want the panhard bar as long as you can go.. They are not long enough mounted to the center section to fully work the way they should..
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Old 11-24-2013, 07:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lakeroadster View Post

Here's a link to a study I did about them: Track Bars, The Short and The Long Of It... - Classic Parts Talk
Wondering about the short arm being depicted as level at ride height, and the long one at a pretty big angle. In that comparison, the level one even though short would certainly work better.

Mounting anything on top of the diff, if you could do that on a GM cast-center rear, would get you an awful roll center height to be sure...not that it would matter with ladder bars as there ain't no roll anyhow.

To do a proper street panhard bar setup on a GM A/G body, look under a 3rd-gen F then do it like that.
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Old 11-24-2013, 07:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kso View Post
Wondering about the short arm being depicted as level at ride height, and the long one at a pretty big angle. In that comparison, the level one even though short would certainly work better.
Agreed. As stated in the link: Now lets look at a popular bolt on "Long Track Arm". The long bar is a popular "kit" available from CPP: Classic Performance Products




As opposed to the OEM bar:
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Old 11-24-2013, 08:26 AM
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Hard to tell where they would be at, hanging from a lift. On the kit, it looks a little like there was some compromise made for exhaust clearance...kind-of a strange thing to do when it's the pipes that should be bending around the suspension and not the other way around, but frame mounts for panhard bars are often a pain as they need to hang down so far.

Funny how the rear suspension from a fifty-year-old truck is still as good as about anything out there...those guys weren't dumb.
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