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Panhard bar interference

11K views 62 replies 9 participants last post by  1971BB427 
#1 ·
:) Took my deuce on its maiden voyage and all was fine except every now and then I heard a clunk noise :( (something like a tailpipe hitting the frame). When I inspected the car underneath I saw the panhard bar which is attached to the 9" diff. by a bracket (bolted on). It was barely 1/2" away from the floor and there was evidence of scrapes and dents in the floor. I cannot cut the floor away as it is in front of the rear seat. This is a TCI frame, 9" Ford diff with coil overs and a '32 Ford tudor. Has anyone an alternative or suggestion that I may use to change this problem? Shortening the bracket (bolts to diff.) that the bar bolts to is almost an impossibility as it is very short in height. Mounting the bar in a different position may be the answer, but the coil overs can get in the way. The frame also has a torsion bar that runs from side to side, which is also hooked to the rear end (stabilizer bar?). Suggestions anyone?
 
#42 ·
:p Okay, I did a mock up and with one pivot point of the panhard bar 3/4 " from the sedan floor (attached to the frame) and the other 2 3/4" from the floor ( making a 2" difference) and increasing the length of the bar 3" (now 22 1/4"), I have an angle of 3 degrees downward slope. I know that the pivot points have to be in line, but nothing is perfect in this world, and neither is my suspension. However, I think this would give me the clearance I need. Any comments on this?
 
#43 ·
I've stayed out of this since it got "technically" involved, I read now that my chassis is "junk" because my panard bar is not long enough.....and I am perpetuating this unsound engineering because I bought it. Well so be it, funny thing though besides TCI, Pete & Jakes, Heidts, Roy Brizzio, SoCal Speed Shop, Mr. Roadster, Chassis Engineering and I'm sure a few more all use the shorter panard bar from the port side to the pinion support. Just look at thier web sites......so these guys sell junk also, Hmmm and a custom built turn key '32 roadster from Brizio starts at 185K.

The reason for the junk engineered bar you ask?? Well there's several, it's probably a lot cheaper to make, there's not a lot of room under an old Ford when you add in 4 bars or split wishbones, shocks, exhaust pipes etc. and the main reason is....it's just not needed. The above company's have thousands of their chassis and turn key hot rods out and about and never once have I heard an owner complain that their panard bar was too short.

I totally agree with the comments by "lakeroadster" and "sedanbob" and yes 27T as I'm sure you know or are finding out these are not bolt together kit cars. If something doesn't fit you have to modify or dare I say re-engineer it for you application.

In regards to your front fender braces, TCI as with other chassis builders have to build a chassis that will work with most of their customers cars. It's not bad or shoddy engineering it's just the way it is, I had to modify my fender braces also but it was no big deal, still have to weld in a backing plate. The headlight bar acts as a support so the strength really isn't compromised that much, some full fendered cars don't even use fender braces. Anyway I'm done for now, too bad this post had to take this turn......Dave
 

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#45 ·
;) Hey 327...... what you did for the front braces is exactly what I had to do as well. You would think that they would have addressed this issue before selling a product that you have to modify. It's like buying a Ferrari and then deciding you want to make it look like a '57 Chev. Why not buy the right thing without going through the hassle of modifying (which incidentally can be a lot of fun, but at the same time frustrating)?? I suppose its like buying jockey briefs....one size fits all!:nono:
 
#46 ·
When I think of what is available today for the car builder I think it has taken all the fun out of it. When I got into this you made EVERYTHING! I remember when I was involved with building a Model A around 1979 and the guy bought a TCI frame, WHAT? A NEW Model A frame that you didn't have to box! WTH? We were blown away, and yes it took some mods, the front crossmember was crooked for example, it has a shim over the spring still to this day.

As far as I am concerned there are way too many bolt on parts as it is. It's like working on a 2007 Caravan for goodness sake with all the catalogs you can order parts from for a Model A, holy cow, bolt in AC!

Honestly, do some actual fabricating and have fun. If that store bought part needs some work take it as a blessing that you still get to do something.

I have a neighbor with a yard full of 20's and 30's Dodge and Chrysler stuff, get one of those cars and get to fabricate everything!

Brian
 
#47 ·
I know exactly what you mean. Back in the "good ole days" (late 50's, 60's) everything was fabricated and buying ready-made parts was in its infancy. To this day I love fabricating brackets and such and feel really great when it all comes together. Sometimes when you finish that bracket there are occasions where it just doesn't sit right with you and so you proceed to tear it all apart to do it a different way; even though the wife says....."nobody will see it". My reply? "Yeah but I know it's there".
 
#48 ·
The availability of hot rod parts has certainly made building a car easier - I occasionally envy the guys building a Chevelle or Mustang in that they can order parts that are direct bolt-ons for their cars, but virtually every 'universal' part for my '33 sedan had to be modified in some way. And, just because all those 'custom' parts are available, doesn't mean you have to use them - you can still fab whatever you want.
 
#49 ·
:D It's what you call..."being creative". Most of the stuff for the "rods" were borne from an idea. Somebody decided to copy it and reproduce it for the market. The only thing that should make you happy is..... "copying your idea is the sincerest form of flattery".:thumbup:
 
#60 ·
There are literally thousands of hotrods running around with shorter differential mounted panhard bars that work, and don't drive erratically. Yes, in a perfect world all panhard bars would be as long as possible, and laying perfectly flat, but that doesn't mean anything less than that doesn't work, or is dangerous, or crap.
Blaming the engineering of a system for this particular panhard hitting a floor is silly. The designers didn't have any way to know the builder would not set his floor height high enough to clear the bar, or the swaybar. And the fix is as simple as raising the floor. There's a lot of ways to re-engineer all the mounts, and brackets, but will the end result be better, or even feel noticeably different when driving, vs. just removing the obstacles?
We need to remember that there's always a better way to build a car, and a way to pass on info without getting rude, or resort to name calling. We also need to remember that not every car needs race car technology to drive and handle well, and still be safe.
 
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