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27Tall T 07-08-2013 11:02 PM

Panhard bar interference
:) Took my deuce on its maiden voyage and all was fine except every now and then I heard a clunk noise :( (something like a tailpipe hitting the frame). When I inspected the car underneath I saw the panhard bar which is attached to the 9" diff. by a bracket (bolted on). It was barely 1/2" away from the floor and there was evidence of scrapes and dents in the floor. I cannot cut the floor away as it is in front of the rear seat. This is a TCI frame, 9" Ford diff with coil overs and a '32 Ford tudor. Has anyone an alternative or suggestion that I may use to change this problem? Shortening the bracket (bolts to diff.) that the bar bolts to is almost an impossibility as it is very short in height. Mounting the bar in a different position may be the answer, but the coil overs can get in the way. The frame also has a torsion bar that runs from side to side, which is also hooked to the rear end (stabilizer bar?). Suggestions anyone?

MARTINSR 07-09-2013 12:00 AM

Post some photos.


27Tall T 07-09-2013 10:17 AM

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:( Have to be a contortionist to get these pics. As you can see I have no room above the attachment. Need to redefine the mounting bracket or something.

sedanbob 07-09-2013 10:54 AM

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I can't tell much from your pics. Does the bracket extend above the rear housing? Here's a pic of mine ('33 tudor, P&J frame, coilovers, parallel 4-bar).

27Tall T 07-09-2013 12:09 PM

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My panhard bar has the bracket which mounts on the top bolt of the pumpkin and 1 away from that, nothing like yours. I'm wondering if the bar (19 1/2" long) can be shortened 4 1/2" and take the brackets and mount them on the right side of the diff. As it stands now, the bracket is on the other side which places the panhard above. On the other side the panhard lowers by about 1 1/2", but the bar would now be 15" long. I know that they should be as long as possible, but in this situation it is impossible. Picture of the bracket as shown.

killeratrod 07-09-2013 01:04 PM

close up pic are nice , but need to see a little more of the frame and the rear.

MARTINSR 07-09-2013 01:12 PM

It looks to me like you could simply trim some off of what it is hitting couldn't you? You could also modify the bracket to bring it in more.


sedanbob 07-09-2013 05:46 PM

Before you cut your panhard bar, try swinging a piece of tubing/wood/whatever cut to the shorter length along the arc that your suspension travel would allow and see how much side-to-side movement you'd get. You can minimize the side-to-side by making sure the panhard bar is level in the middle of the suspension travel at ride height. Make sure if you move the panhard mount on the frame, that it doesn't interfere with your suspension (lowering where it mounts on the differential would likely dictate lowering it at the frame).

NEW INTERIORS 07-09-2013 07:17 PM

Keep in mind the shorter the panhard bar the more side to side movement you will get through the arc..You want to make sure to get it as level as you can at ride height..If not you will add to the movement to one side..

327NUT 07-10-2013 10:14 AM

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I've got a TCI chassis and this is the way the panard bar is supposed to be mounted. Maybe you have a different set up but never saw one mounted on top of the 9" as you say yours is or maybe I just don't understand, better pics would help.

sedanbob 07-10-2013 10:33 AM


Originally Posted by 327NUT (Post 1692760)
I've got a TCI chassis and this is the way the panard bar is supposed to be mounted. Maybe you have a different set up but never saw one mounted on top of the 9" as you say yours is or maybe I just don't understand, better pics would help.

That looks like the same bracket, only mounted on the pinion support.

MARTINSR 07-10-2013 11:05 AM

It does look exactly the same. Notice the two holes close together look the same too, maybe it's simply designed to mount in either position.....depending on your clearance.


327NUT 07-10-2013 11:48 AM

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No it mounts on the pinion support, if you pull up and go to '32 Ford chassis you'll that this is the correct location. Also 27, make sure the panard bar is parallel to the ground at ride height so it can work properly. I really don't know how....if 27 did, hook up the panard bar to the top of the 3rd member housing. The mounting loc tab welded to the chassis is installed directly across (inline) with the pinion support, unless he used some kind of spacer (s) or ????. I think the second hole is for an 8" rear. Here's another picture.....

techinspector1 07-10-2013 12:36 PM

1. The Panhard bar needs to be as long as possible. Bars mounted to the pinion are a bad joke.
2. The Panhard bar does not need to be a straight bar. It can be twisted up like a pretzel to miss other components on the car and still do its job properly.
3. Panhard bar mounting points need to describe a line that is parallel with the road surface at rest.
4. History would have been much better off if Rene Panhard had been padlocked to a pole and caned until he came up with a better design for preventing lateral movement of the differential housing. James Watt had come up with a much better design by 1808, so Panhard had reference to that to work with.

MARTINSR 07-10-2013 01:00 PM

LOL, good stuff and I agree with all of it. :thumbup:

However better the Watt's link is, it's a little too clumsy for most cars and a long Panhard bar is a good way to go.


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